Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 24
Thread: Cutting Dadoes by Hand
-
20th March 2012, 06:23 PM #1
Cutting Dadoes by Hand
Yeah, I know, old hat to all you seasoned veterans, but just might interest someone who wants to do it like the cave-men used to do it.
There is a full HOW-TO on my BLOG for any other like minded neanderthals like me.
Here is a sample:.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/
-
20th March 2012 06:23 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
20th March 2012, 06:53 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 613
Where do you plug that funny looking router in SG?
Nice article thanks.
-
20th March 2012, 08:55 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Victoria
- Posts
- 734
Excellent article SG.
-
21st March 2012, 12:42 AM #4
Well done! A side rebate plane is on my list for sure... One of these days I'll find one or make one.
The blog is very cool... I'm sure I'll be spending some time reading it all
How do you like the old closed mouth router plane? I have the open mouth 71 but I'm thinking the closed mouth would be handy for tennons as it would have more sole to ride on. Thoughts?
-
21st March 2012, 07:43 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 613
-
21st March 2012, 07:50 AM #6
Thanks fellas.
The router is years before its time Andrew - cordless
The only difference that I can see between the closed and open mouth router is that the latter usually includes a depth stop. Mine doesn't, but for dadoes, it doesn't much matter as the router will stop cutting when the blade runs out of timber to shave. You just have to keep measuring the depth as the blade is lowered.
I have the open mouth 71 but I'm thinking the closed mouth would be handy for tennons as it would have more sole to ride on. Thoughts?
Maybe - I don't use mine for tenons - I generally hand cut them and finish off with a shoulder plane as I have done HERE
I suppose that is the beauty of hand tools - there are many ways to use them.
Happy woodworking .....
SG.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/
-
21st March 2012, 09:26 AM #7
Re: Cutting Dadoes by Hand
Originally Posted by andrewr79
Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum
Thanks guys, so happy to find like minded people
Oh, and SG I spent some time on your blog today, good stuff!
-
21st March 2012, 09:44 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
- Location
- Littlehampton, SA
- Posts
- 307
After 35 years of teaching woodwork, metalwork, photography and plastics I am glad that I used to say, "There are many ways of doing things. I will show you a couple, but you will find a way that suits you best". Reading this thread, and the associated blogs, has brought this comment back to me as I've
1. known these as Housing Joints. Dado was always the American term. (Don't worry, I also dislike biscuits being referred to as 'cookies')
2. never used a plane to clean up the sides of the housing (Dado). I've always cut one, slid the "shelf" to just cover the kerf and marked off the housing width with a knife. Perfect fit every time.
3. never used a plane to clean up the shoulders of a tenon. I've just lived with the frustration of rarely being able to get the shoulders exactly right, even after several tries with a sharp chisel.
It is never too late to learn and there is always "more than one way to skin a cat"
PS Scribbly Gum. I love your comment about the tenon saw. I bought mine 45 years ago and it is still one of my favourite and most used tools.
-
21st March 2012, 10:39 AM #9
To paraphrase the Bard
What's in a name. That which we call a housing. By any other name would fit as sweet.
I must try that - sounds like less work than my method.
Shoulder planes make life easier for tenons especially. Terry Gordon makes great shoulder planes. I love watching his demos at the wood shows.
Thanks for the kind words Crunchie.
I learn something new every day.
Loved your tip about the housings.
It's pouring rain here and a trip to the shed is not an attractive prospect at the moment.
Cheers
SG.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/
-
21st March 2012, 03:10 PM #10
Well a good shoulder plane can be a big help, too, Crunchie, but we were taught by our woodwork teachers back in the 50s, to saw close to the scribe line then clean up with a wide chisel. The chisel needs to be desperately sharp, and the cuts overlapped, to get a really clean shoulder. It works well in woods that cut crisply, but not so well if the wood is the type which likes to crumble & crush no matter how sharp the chisel. I've illustrated what I'm talking about in my bed-build, here:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f187/m...ed-wip-149815/
Cedar is often a very 'crushy' wood, & I often have problems trying to cut it cross-grain, but the bits I was working with on this job were all well-behaved, bar one. That's when a shoulder plane can save the day.
While shoulders can be a chore, I think getting the cheeks dead right on wide tenons challenges me most. For the tenons on my bed-daed, I sawed the cheeks well outside the scribed lines & cleaned them up with a 78 rebate plane. I find this to be the safest way, though I do use the table saw or even a router, at times...
Cheers,
There are certainly many ways I've seen to cut a tenon! I guess the 'right' way is whatever works for you & produces a clean joint consistently.....IW
-
21st March 2012, 04:42 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 613
Same tenon saw for both the tenon cheeks and the dado SG?. What's it filed as?. Just curious because I've struggled with a crosscut for the cheeks and so I've got a second tenon saw in the restore pile that I'm planning to set as about 7TPI rip for this very purpose...
-
21st March 2012, 05:41 PM #12
Yes, I know, seems odd doesn't it. Theoretically, a rip saw should work best on tenon cheeks. Just like dovetails the cut is made down the grain. However, even though it cuts slower, my S&J works just fine on the tenon cheeks.
It is filed X-cut and has about 12 TPI from memory.
I originally started these dadoes/housings with an Abbeydale tenon saw that I have which is a longer saw at 16 inches. It is filed X-cut and is around the 7-8 TPI.
It was way too aggressive, (maybe it has too much set - not sure) so I put it aside and reached for old reliable.
I actually have a couple of Ian's beautiful saws, and I should show them off I suppose. I am not as used to them, so guess what I reach for in a pinch ....
Kind've reminds me of my first plane - a Stanley 4-1/2. I did everything with that plane, as it was all I had for many years. After I bought a block plane, I still instictively reached for the 4-1/2 for chamfers and aris work.
Habits die hard don't they ......
Cheers
SG.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/
-
21st March 2012, 06:26 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 613
If it ain't broke...
There was this interesting episode of the woodwright's shop where mr Scwatz showed handsaw methods - 1st, 2nd and third class cuts. From memory the tenon checks were 1st class, where both apparence and accuracy mattered, and the cheeks were 2nd - only accuracy mattered. If I recall correctly he cut them with a panel sized rip saw...
Back to dado's - there's a depth stop for a tenon saw design in Bob Wearing's "making woodwork aids and devices' that I think would be beneficial for your method, for the rest of us anyway since you seem to have it nailed. His method called for holes in the saw and used wingnuts but I've got a couple of rare earth magnets lined up for mine.
-
21st March 2012, 10:11 PM #14
for tenons, whether the router is an open or closed mouth model shouldn't make a difference.
The technique I was taught is to use an offcut the same thickness as for the material in which the tenon is being cut. Then the sole of the router is then supported on both sides of the tenon.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
-
21st March 2012, 11:54 PM #15
Re: Cutting Dadoes by Hand
Originally Posted by ian
Similar Threads
-
Cutting Lap Joints by Hand
By simonmags in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 14Last Post: 23rd April 2010, 08:56 PM -
Hand cutting dovetails
By AlexS in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 6Last Post: 28th January 2010, 08:43 PM -
Cutting dadoes for bookshelves
By havenoideaatall in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 19Last Post: 25th January 2007, 01:28 AM -
Tight dadoes
By TritonJapan in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 5Last Post: 11th January 2006, 09:16 AM -
How do I cut some stopped dadoes
By Arron in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 7Last Post: 17th October 2005, 09:13 AM