Thread: Darkside Assistance Required

First off no pics=didn't happen. Second off, Bailey came up with the design and Stanley put his name on their planes as a tribute. The lever cap is correct. Depending on the break, it should be glued.

Have a look HERE

It may help you restore it to former glory.

Originally Posted by RyanUSA

First off no pics=didn't happen.

Not sure of meaning????


Thanks MajorPanic. I knew there would be a thread somewhere. Was it a good buy for $15? Handle is a worry.

Carry Pine

Boy Major you really do a job there, I just clean mine up so they worka and don't worry too much about the rest. ie lap the sole sides frogmouth. Make sure it is all trued up working properly sharpen it up and go.

Anyway Carry something really good you can do to one of those is to get a flat surface like a sheet of glass and put some sandpaper on it then flatten the sole. Make sure it is making good contact at the mouth. Clean up the rest so that it works OK and then sharpen. Lots of sharpening threads. Personally I just use a series of stones. Something rough to get it started then I work through stones 600 1200 2400 and 4000 grit. I do have a leather lapping board as well that uses a grinding paste which is pretty nice but don't use it all the time.

Studley

Bargain? Depends on how you cost your time ;-}

New knob or tote .. available from Timbecon I think. 2nd hand, do a google for Hans Brunner or Tool Exchange. Yes, you can shape your own too.

CP, I've got a couple of those. A couple of things to note for yours: firstly the handles look like rosewood. Which may mean that it is older rather than newer. However, it doesn't have a patent number or date on it, so it probably isn't very old and therefore valuable. It looks to me like it is maybe 40-50 years old at most, and probably at least 30 years old. These planes make nice users if you clean them up and tune them a bit, and it isn't terribly hard to do, but it is time consuming. Gluing the tote is not a problem, use a good epoxy (because it provides filler qualities as well as excellent adhesion), and dye it black using oxide powder (I use black japan, but it is possible that this weakens the bond - although I haven't noticed much). I've glued three or four and even molded some repairs to a knob out of dyed epoxy, and it seems to work great. Because it looks like an original rosewood tote to me, I'd glue it rather than replacing it, but if you'd rather it won't matter much if you replace the tote with one you make yourself. You could for example carve a tote and matching knob out of an Aussie hardwood and make it into a feature.

Major's thread on restoring old planes is excellent. As are Studley's suggestions. I quite enjoy the process of making something old and rusty into a usable tool again, and wish I had the time to do more of them (I've got a few lined up ready to do!). If you decide to have a go at it, and you want some help, give me a shout and maybe we'll finally catch up - I can show you the two that I've done (a Stanley 4 and a Falcon 51/2).

Oh and if you want to get a nice flat piece of glass to make a lapping plate with, I can point you in the direction of a local company that provided me with offcuts for a very good price.

Originally Posted by Carry Pine

Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER- 1px inset; BORDER- 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by RyanUSA
First off no pics=didn't happen.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Not sure of meaning????

Carry Pine

Carry
What Ryan is alluding to is if you don't post pics you can't gloat

BTW I think $15 is a pretty good price


ian

Originally Posted by rsser

Bargain? Depends on how you cost your time ;-}

New knob or tote .. available from Timbecon I think. 2nd hand, do a google for Hans Brunner or Tool Exchange. Yes, you can shape your own too.

If you haven't noticed yet people with a passion, hobby or major interest DO NOT cost their time & they give freely advice, time, help or support.

If that's what you are after you had better look elsewhere.

Well if I did cost mine, and yep, I don't, I'd have several crappy planes worth over a grand each at my hourly rate

Yep, it's the, er, amusement (no), the achievement? (not after the first two), the kids inheritance (no, they wouldn't have a clue!), ah, yes, the obsession

Carry,

Good pick up. Like the others have said, its a vintage plane, going by the blade adjuster its a WW2 era plane - 1942 -1945 or there abouts.

The tote and knob looks to be rosewood. Reglue the tote, take your time when doing that, they can be glued well with a bit of care. Make sure the break is clean use metho or other solvent or scrape it gently if it has glue on it. Cut a vee block in a scrap piece of wood (put base of tote in the vee) and experiment in clamping it dry, in a vice (be gentle), when the clamping is tested, try glue. I have glued many very successfully and only once had to resort to using the screwthrough the middle to hold one together while the glue dried. I have found that using the screw doesn't always pull it together at the right angle but it may depend on the break.

re the bailey stanley markings. Its likely all original. Bailey was the guy back in c1867 that took out the patent. Stanley bought him out (various times) as a homage to Bailey (at some point, can't remember when) stanley marked their plans Bailey. Do a search for blood n gore to read more about it all.

Regards
Steve

Steve,
Thanks for the info. I've decided to make the plane a 'mission' and do it bit by bit following MajorPanic's great step by step description. The tote will be a problem as it has been glued before with araldite or something that metho will not dissolve. I didn't quite get the bit about making a vee block (being a visual learner) so if there is a link somewhere......... I would have been tempted to put the screw in to keep the shape when it was being glued but I'll follow your lead.

Graham

Carry. Should be able to get it working pretty quickly. Just clean up enough so things move smoothly.......uno, like suggested, lap the sole to get rid of most of the rust...looking for a high point at the leading edge of the mouth.

I'd also lap the frog a bit so the blade moves well on it. Make sure that frog is enough forward so the blade is actually resting on it, instead of the plane body (looks like it already is in that photo)

I'd epoxy up that handle though. Probably bite into your hand in use. PITA.

Sharpen up that blade.....ummmmm . you'll work it out. Goodluck mate.