Thread: Disston crosscut saw

Looks like a bought one!

Originally Posted by IanW

Looks like a bought one!

Even better

Thank you gentleman.

Looks great MA, nice restoration work. You also did well cleaning the medallion. *shiny*

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Hi all, progress update. Handle has been traced onto the beech, cut out (internals done with another home made bowsaw - love these things)

Another home made bowsaw? After seeing the douglas fir version just now (must have missed the post last year), I wouldn't mind seeing the new one...

Cheers,
Andy

Hi AB. Thanks. 2nd one I made with a white oak body and redgum handles/straining bar. Different style to the 1st, smaller and used a section of bandsaw blade for the cutting end. Wasn't as happy with it overall but it works just fine. I will get a photo soon

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Here it is, just for AndyB (and anyone else )

MA

I don't think the saw has been sharpened as yet, but when setting you need to be on the lookout for a suitable saw set. The sets for the logging saw took several forms. The simple way was to create a suitable bevel on a piece of hardwood, hold the teeth over the bevel and tap with a hammer. It probably took some skill and muscle memory to achieve consistent results. The second type was a lever action with slots in a bar and the third type was a hand operated plier similar to the sets for hand saws and back saws: Except, the devices were at the steroid end of the model range. Something like this:

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I was looking for Johknee's Morrill saw set and compared the two. The logging crosscut set is 658g, which is getting on for three times the weight of the Morrill at 232g. It is indicative of the extra effort required to set a logging saw. I also realised that you had gone to the trouble of refurbishing your saw and here was I posting a pic of a "rusty treasure." So I cleaned it up on a fibre wheel. In fact in the top pic I had already taken the pin out before I realised I should have a before and after. I didn't clean the spring as I couldn't contemplate the distress if it disappeared on me in the semi dark and got lost on the dirt floor. I timed the process: it took 28 minutes. Shame we cant' use the fibre wheel on the saw plate!

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I don't know who made it, although quite a few of the logging saw sets were similar. The only identifying mark is a No.1 on the inside of the handle, which I have not cleaned.

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Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Here it is... 20220507_162417.jpg

MA, I can see why your saw isn't making you happy. The coarse pitch and the the positive rake on the bandsaw blade would conspire to make life difficult for you. I reckon if you were to take another bit of blade, cut the teeth off & re-tooth to something like 12tpi & about 5* (negative) rake your rather nice-looking little saw would take on a whole new character....
Cheers,
Ian

Thanks Paul and IanW. I have seen the paddle type saw sets but not the "big boy" ones (although it does make sense). I don't know if my saw blade has done a lot of cutting but the handles sure looked like it might of. Most of the tips "catch" on my fingers as I run them over the teethline but I haven't looked closely at this yet. The set seems reasonable too. BUT........I have finally fitted the handle and (apart from the sharpening) it is finished!!!

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Got a chance this afternoon to drill and tap the threaded rod and finally put the handle on properly. I haven't used a washer but set the coupler nut a little proud of the handle and the blade bears against this instead. Really happy with this saw, it has cone up very nicely. Just have to try it out now.

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I will try the re tooth Ian. The bowsaw blade comes from a broken blade which definitely didn't cut as well as the replacement that is now on the bandsaw. Maybe that should have been a clue.

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

I will try the re tooth Ian. The bowsaw blade comes from a broken blade which definitely didn't cut as well as the replacement that is now on the bandsaw. Maybe that should have been a clue.

MA

As Ian pointed out, powered saws have positive rake, but hand-powered saws have negative rake: We humans just cain't push 'em fast 'nough for +ve rake. Your new blade in the bandsaw cuts well for a different reason than the poor performance of the old blade used in the bow saw.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

......The bowsaw blade comes from a broken blade which definitely didn't cut as well as the replacement that is now on the bandsaw. Maybe that should have been a clue.

Umm yeah - I think that's a clue alright....

But way back I tried a scrap of new bandsaw blade in a small bowsaw & it was not a raging success - they not only have positive rake (usually) but a bit more set than you'd typically apply to a hand-driven saw. That leads to a very grabby action & a rather messy kerf. I predict you'll come to love that little saw very dearly when you get the blade sorted. It did take me a while before I became comfortable with bowsaws, learning to tension them adequately & adapting to the very different feel. You really need two - one with a narrow blade for "turning" cuts and one with a wider blade, for straight cuts. The saw you see Tage Frid using for straight cuts (with great skill & accuracy by all accounts!), has a blade ~25mm wide.

I keep a blade about 16mm wide on my larger (12") saw and a 4mm wide blade on the little 10". The wider blade is much easier to use for a straight cut, but still needs a lot more attention to follow a straight line than a backsaw, but I'm ok with it because it's used mostly for curved cuts. The smaller saw is the one I use most often, it can cut a 12-15mm radius easily, but dead-straight cuts present a challenge.

Because I didn't use bowsaws in any serious way 'til I was in my late 40s/early 50s, I was rather rusted on to backsaws & found them a bit awkward at first. I often think I should make an effort and re-school myself to use the larger saw for more straight cutting. Framed saws offer some advantages over backsaws, like less effort & greater depth of cut, plus I reckon it's easier to home-brew a very good bowsaw than a backsaw.....
Cheers,
Ian

MA

I have miles, well more like metres and metres , of used bandsaw blade that I have kept for such purposes (and never used myself). If you don't have any inch wide material, let me know and I can post a length or two to you if you wish to try Ian's suggestion.

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Regards
Paul

Thanks Ian and Paul. Happy to take up your offer Paul. My bandsaw is only 12" and I have been told many times that a 1" blade won't suit my machine (radius is too small) so no broken blades to use. Let me know postage costs.

MA

I will cut something up and send you a PM. What length is ideal for you to work with? 300mm or a little longer?

Regards
Paul