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Thread: Diston handsaw - no carving?
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5th April 2020, 10:56 AM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Bruce,
I too have a couple of Swedish saws, they are the same 'bushman' model
with similar handles to your saws.
Graham
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5th April 2020 10:56 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th April 2020, 03:56 PM #17
Graham
With that tooth pattern do you think the second saw is in fact a pruning saw?
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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5th April 2020, 04:33 PM #18
I love the shape of that handle. Very simple but with a little bit of flair.
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5th April 2020, 09:27 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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Paul,
the saws both have the same tooth pattern.
and yes I agree, they would both be good as
pruning saws.
Graham.
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6th April 2020, 09:35 AM #20Senior Member
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The tooth pattern is typical of very large pitch crosscut saws. I have seen it referred to as “M” pattern. The extra-deep gullets with round bottoms improve sawdust extraction when sawing wet wood I think. Anyone seen a guide on how to sharpen this pattern.
Bruce
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6th April 2020, 01:20 PM #21
Bruce
I believe that those saws of yours and Graham are sharpened the same way as a conventional crosscut hand saw. The only real difference is the extended gullets, which would be filed with a round file, but not every time the saw was sharpened. They are intended to remove fluffy green sawdust. The shape of the teeth is such that they are intended to cut in both directions (I think).
With special filing you are probably thinking of the filing technique that is used on large "logging" crosscut saws where raker teeth are present. Rakers have to be a fraction lower than the other teeth as their purpose is to remove sawdust: Not to cut timber.
This is some information on sharpening the big crosscuts that have raker teeth.
Simonds crescent sawtools sharpening.jpg
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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7th April 2020, 09:29 AM #22Senior Member
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Thanks Paul,
That looks complicated!
I think you are right that the pattern in Graham’s post is a normal crosscut with periodic deeper gullets to contain sawdust. To be clear, both my Swedish saws have standard teeth. One is 5pt crosscut, the other about 6pt rip. I might change them to a pair with the bigger pitch as rip and the smaller as crosscut. Not that much call for a 5pt crosscut in my opinion at least.
While my Swedish saws are standard tooth, I do have an M pattern saw that I will have a go at sharpening - purely for academic interest. Not much call for log saws these days - after all that’s what chainsaws are for!
Bruce
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7th April 2020, 11:45 AM #23
Bruce
Before you convert the coarse crosscut to rip you might like to consider that a coarse tooth saw can be useful for fast cutting where precision in not necessary. Useful at night time too if you don't wish to get offside with the neighbours. Back in the day the major manufacturers made Docking saws for this purpose. They were used on building sites, in timber yards and in bridge building. Have a look at these saws:
Atkins docking saws 1937 catalogue.pngSimonds No.348 Docking 1938.jpgdisston docking saw 1932 catalogue.png
They had a few things in common. They were nearly all 30" long (although there were 24" versions too). They usually had a timber handle and they all had 4 1/2ppi.
Docking Saws
I have one of these saws I keep in the vehicle (just in case).
Australian Docking Saw
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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