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  1. #16
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    Sep 2009
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    victor harbor sa
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    Hi Bruce,

    I too have a couple of Swedish saws, they are the same 'bushman' model
    with similar handles to your saws.

    Graham
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
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    73
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    11,099

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    Graham

    With that tooth pattern do you think the second saw is in fact a pruning saw?

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,813

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    I love the shape of that handle. Very simple but with a little bit of flair.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    victor harbor sa
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    315

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    Paul,

    the saws both have the same tooth pattern.

    and yes I agree, they would both be good as
    pruning saws.

    Graham.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Geelong, Victoria
    Posts
    282

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    The tooth pattern is typical of very large pitch crosscut saws. I have seen it referred to as “M” pattern. The extra-deep gullets with round bottoms improve sawdust extraction when sawing wet wood I think. Anyone seen a guide on how to sharpen this pattern.

    Bruce

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
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    73
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    11,099

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    Bruce

    I believe that those saws of yours and Graham are sharpened the same way as a conventional crosscut hand saw. The only real difference is the extended gullets, which would be filed with a round file, but not every time the saw was sharpened. They are intended to remove fluffy green sawdust. The shape of the teeth is such that they are intended to cut in both directions (I think).

    With special filing you are probably thinking of the filing technique that is used on large "logging" crosscut saws where raker teeth are present. Rakers have to be a fraction lower than the other teeth as their purpose is to remove sawdust: Not to cut timber.

    This is some information on sharpening the big crosscuts that have raker teeth.

    Simonds crescent sawtools sharpening.jpg



    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Geelong, Victoria
    Posts
    282

    Default

    Thanks Paul,
    That looks complicated!
    I think you are right that the pattern in Graham’s post is a normal crosscut with periodic deeper gullets to contain sawdust. To be clear, both my Swedish saws have standard teeth. One is 5pt crosscut, the other about 6pt rip. I might change them to a pair with the bigger pitch as rip and the smaller as crosscut. Not that much call for a 5pt crosscut in my opinion at least.
    While my Swedish saws are standard tooth, I do have an M pattern saw that I will have a go at sharpening - purely for academic interest. Not much call for log saws these days - after all that’s what chainsaws are for!
    Bruce

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
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    73
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    11,099

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    Quote Originally Posted by bruceward51 View Post
    Thanks Paul,
    That looks complicated!
    I think you are right that the pattern in Graham’s post is a normal crosscut with periodic deeper gullets to contain sawdust. To be clear, both my Swedish saws have standard teeth. One is 5pt crosscut, the other about 6pt rip. I might change them to a pair with the bigger pitch as rip and the smaller as crosscut. Not that much call for a 5pt crosscut in my opinion at least.
    While my Swedish saws are standard tooth, I do have an M pattern saw that I will have a go at sharpening - purely for academic interest. Not much call for log saws these days - after all that’s what chainsaws are for!
    Bruce
    Bruce

    Before you convert the coarse crosscut to rip you might like to consider that a coarse tooth saw can be useful for fast cutting where precision in not necessary. Useful at night time too if you don't wish to get offside with the neighbours. Back in the day the major manufacturers made Docking saws for this purpose. They were used on building sites, in timber yards and in bridge building. Have a look at these saws:

    Atkins docking saws 1937 catalogue.pngSimonds No.348 Docking 1938.jpgdisston docking saw 1932 catalogue.png

    They had a few things in common. They were nearly all 30" long (although there were 24" versions too). They usually had a timber handle and they all had 4 1/2ppi.

    Docking Saws

    I have one of these saws I keep in the vehicle (just in case).

    Australian Docking Saw

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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