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Thread: Another Doh moment
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28th March 2012, 11:10 AM #1
Another Doh moment
I was in the process of trying to rip 2.4 metre length of 35mm thick spotted gum with my frame saw (don't ask me why I needed to do that a second time, suffice to say that I screwed up the first board I cut!), and noticed that my hands were getting sore and cramping.
As I may have mentioned before, I have quite long hands and fingers and so I find that a thicker handle assists in stopping soreness and cramping in all my tools. Often that means making new, thicker handles (especially for saws and planes).
While I was sawing (and 2.4m of 35mm spotty gives you quite some thinking time), I remembered that when I played golf they put papers (masking tape) under the grip to make it thicker for me and that when I played tennis, there was a kind of woven tape that was tacky which thickened the grip and gave a more positive connection with the racquet.
Clearly you can't put papers under a tool handle (except perhaps an Estwing hammer). But I seemed to remember that there was a roll of tennis racquet handle tape in my tennis bag, so it was found in the mess under the house and a few wrappings were made around the handle of the frame saw.
Attachment 203012
The result? A better grip and less soreness. So from now on you may not see me making new handles as much - just winding some green tape where it's needed!Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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28th March 2012 11:10 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th March 2012, 06:03 PM #2
I was wondering about how you hold it ... given where the tape is.
I've seen seen Frank Krausz doing a straight push-pull along the axis of the saw, but that is where the blade is on the outer edge.
(Also here at 6:00 ... Vidéo Ina - La fabrication d'un siège à l'école Boulle, vidéo La fabrication d'un siège à l'école Boulle, vidéo Economie et société Education et enseignement - Archives vidéos Economie et société Education et enseignement : Ina.fr)
But a different grip here at 5:20 ... Vidéo Ina - L'ébénisterie, vidéo L'ébénisterie, vidéo Economie et société Education et enseignement - Archives vidéos Economie et société Education et enseignement : Ina.fr
Hmmm ... I thought this one was like yours but the blade is on the outer edge again ... do you use a two-handed grip? I know that using a western handsaw ripping speeds along when you can use a two-handed grip.
Cheers,
Paul McGee
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28th March 2012, 07:02 PM #3
Hi paul
I hold the saw with both hands at one end and use the saw sitting down on the timber which in turn is sitting on my saw bench. The motion is a bit like pulling an oar and you use your big back muscles more than your arm muscles.
This is a link to show how the saw is made. And here's a link to a better description on how it can be used to resaw timber .Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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28th March 2012, 10:42 PM #4
Hi jeremy
what TPI are you using in that saw?regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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29th March 2012, 09:48 AM #5
Cool links Paul. That crazy router at the end of the first vid made my fingers feel weird.
Berlin...I'll just make the other bits smaller.
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29th March 2012, 10:03 AM #6
The blade is 4 tpi. It is one of the ECE blades available from My Tool Store - it is said to cut both on the push and on the pull because the teeth are sharpened on both sides and have the same rake on both sides.Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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29th March 2012, 10:32 AM #7
By the way, I finished the cut last night. The total time for the cut was about one hour (broken into a number of 5-10 minute sessions).
Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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29th March 2012, 02:42 PM #8
Hmm, i see you're using an ECE 4 tpi push-pull? That sounds like what they call a schittersaege, which is normally a rough docking blade for lumber and firewood. A schlitzsaege/spannsaege, with push to cut set up is what they typically propose for ripping. But hey, job's done
...I'll just make the other bits smaller.
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29th March 2012, 03:10 PM #9
Jeremy, have a squiz at Lee Valley, they have some excellent tapes that are padded and bulky, a bit like a bandage.
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29th March 2012, 06:25 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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How fast is the frame saw compared to a say 4-6 TPI common ripsaw?. I've seen video of Roy Underhill using the frame saws and he seemed to get very decent results.
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29th March 2012, 07:29 PM #11
Jeremy, that saw seems like awfully hard yakka!
I recently ripped a Bluegum slab to get a straight edge. It was more like 55mm thick but about 400mm shorter. I seem to recall my trusty S&J 5 pointer, got through it in around 10 minutes - I couldn't have lasted any longer than that at my stage of decrepitude....
Cheers,IW
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30th March 2012, 01:54 AM #12
I was wondering about the tooth shape.
Do they come to a point left and right looking along the length of the saw - which would be a crosscut-ish tooth shape, or - again looking along the saw - do the tops come to a small flat like the end of a chisel rather than the top of a pyramid? (which would be like a ripsaw tooth shape)
A close-up photo of the teeth would be very interesting.
I have a D8 that starts 11tpi at the front and is 9tpi at the rear that seems very sharp to me ... not through my efforts I might add ... and I think it would be cutting 19mm(3/4") jarrah at at least 1cm per stroke. That would mean 200 strokes per 2m if I could keep up the effort. And a courser tpi should run faster again I assume.
This is not to nag at you - I commend your efforts. I am starting to think/learn that when people had 'only' these tools to do their work with that they were capable of being pretty damn effective with them - and it is interesting to try to relearn/recapture that knowledge and ability.
Cheers,
Paul McGee
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30th March 2012, 09:38 AM #13
Paul
I'll tyake a photo over the weekend, but I fear that the quality may not be great (I will haqve to use my phone). My recollection is that the teeth are filed rip and that there's not much set.
I reckon I made a mistake getting the two way teeth. I am thinking of gettting the 5 tpi blade which has almost no rake. I will then see whether the setup is more efficiient cutting on the push or the pull. I suspect that since the action is like rowing, a pull stroke may be the way to go.Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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30th March 2012, 12:42 PM #14
Jeremy, i use a 5tpi ECE blade in my frame saw for ripping and it blazes through hardwood. One thing i noticed in the 2nd old french vid paul posted, is that the rip was performed with the saw vertical and the teeth facing away from the operator. i.e. you cut in the opposite direction to the way we would with an english pattern saw. But in any case i think you'll like the other blade better.
Matt...I'll just make the other bits smaller.
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