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Thread: Drawer design and drawer bottoms
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17th January 2010, 12:35 PM #16
Hi Wendy and all
I have no doubt that a decent glue will be strong enough to hold the slips. They create a large glue surface - it is not just the edge of the panel that is being held.
Don't forget, the front board is grooved and the rear board is screwed. I shall add beads similar to the slips for an aesthetic finish.
This is where I left off last night ..
I finished making a new drawer bottom. 5/16" thick Karri Pine, which is the same wood as the drawer sides (front and rear is Tasmanian Oak). This is a beautiful, straight-grained, light wood.
Here is Jim Krenov blessing the new panel.
In the mean time I made the slips ..
And this is how they are positioned (just one to show the size and placement ...
End of yesterday in the workshop ..
Today I will make the drawer.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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17th January 2010, 12:36 PM #17
Drawer Derriere
Wendy
Glue alone would be fine for the slips, as long as they are a nice fit, but if you wish to give the ironmonger some of your hardearned a few pins would be OK.
Regards
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17th January 2010, 12:54 PM #18
, weeellll, I have been known to donate to the ironmongers a tad too much sometimes
Good to know that glue should be more than adequate, especially with the rebate for the front and screw at the back.
back to watching and learning ....Box Challenge 2011 - Check out the amazing Boxes!
Twist One - Wooden Hinge/Latch/Catch/Handle
Twist Two - Found Object
Twist Three - Anything Goes
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17th January 2010, 04:06 PM #19
Looking good Derek. Love that Kauri pine.
Cheers
Pops
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18th January 2010, 08:21 AM #20
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18th January 2010, 12:09 PM #21
Hi Derek,
Must say I'm with WW & don't like slips, the first time I saw them that's exactly what I thought - some dill had cut the bottom too short! -
My other objection is having the obstructions inside the drawer, though I suppose it's a minor point. The sides of your drawer were adequate dimensions for grooves, IMO. I often add slips of harder material to the sides underneath the bottom to create a larger wear surface. They require careful glueing so they don't stick the bottom & defeat the purpose of a loose groove, of course, but are otherwise easy & serve the purpose.
Borttom thickness is dependant on the material chosen, I would have thought. WW refers to some pretty thin dimensions, but I presume he is talking about Oak? Not sure what would give an equivalent strength/weight ratio here, but Tassie Oak might come close. I like to use Camphor for drawer bottoms in this sort of application, which would mean about 1/2" thick for the size of this drawer. To fit the grooves, I just run a shallow bevel round 3 sides - usually rough-cut on the TS, then fitted by planing to size. I tend to burn a few more electrons than you!
Cheers,IW
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18th January 2010, 12:50 PM #22
Sorry, I should have been more specific. The very fine stuff refered to was always Oak (720 kg/m3), although some 3/8" drawer stuff was often of Pine. Now don't imagine this was anything like Radiata Pine (480 kg/m3) or Kauri, the stuff used in the UK and Europe was Redwood (also known as Red Deal, Scots Pine or Baltic - if sourced from that region). Growing in cold regions and/or higher altitudes, Redwood was dense (510 kg/m3) and was a very respectable timber. I've seen a few sticks of similar quality, close ringed 'Baltic Pine' here in Australia, but the majority of it is somewhat softer and lighter in weight having been recently farmed.
The thicker, country drawer stuff was sometimes made of Redwood, but Whitewood (Spruce, White Deal, Fir etc. - 390 kg/m3) and (Sweet) Chestnut (540 kg/m3) were also used in thicker dimensions.
Tassie Oak is around 640 kg/m3..
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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