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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,827

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RufflyRustic View Post
    ..How are slips normally attached to the drawer side? Just glue? is there enough strength in that join to house the bottom and hold the contents of the drawer as well?

    This is an area of doubt for me, how can a 10 mm drawer side be strong enough with a slip, where it seems to be that the slip is the point where all the pressure lands from the drawer contents?

    Cheers
    Wendy
    Hi Wendy and all

    I have no doubt that a decent glue will be strong enough to hold the slips. They create a large glue surface - it is not just the edge of the panel that is being held.

    Don't forget, the front board is grooved and the rear board is screwed. I shall add beads similar to the slips for an aesthetic finish.

    This is where I left off last night ..

    I finished making a new drawer bottom. 5/16" thick Karri Pine, which is the same wood as the drawer sides (front and rear is Tasmanian Oak). This is a beautiful, straight-grained, light wood.

    Here is Jim Krenov blessing the new panel.



    In the mean time I made the slips ..



    And this is how they are positioned (just one to show the size and placement ...





    End of yesterday in the workshop ..





    Today I will make the drawer.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW southern Highlands
    Posts
    548

    Default Drawer Derriere

    Wendy

    Glue alone would be fine for the slips, as long as they are a nice fit, but if you wish to give the ironmonger some of your hardearned a few pins would be OK.

    Regards

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Toowoomba Q 4350
    Posts
    9,217

    Default

    , weeellll, I have been known to donate to the ironmongers a tad too much sometimes

    Good to know that glue should be more than adequate, especially with the rebate for the front and screw at the back.

    back to watching and learning ....

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,181

    Default

    Looking good Derek. Love that Kauri pine.

    Cheers
    Pops

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld.
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,792

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pops View Post
    Looking good Derek. Love that Kauri pine.

    Cheers
    Pops
    Indeed, lovely looking stuff!

    Very interesting thread to follow, thanks Derek.


    Cheers
    Andy Mac
    Change is inevitable, growth is optional.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,134

    Default

    Hi Derek,
    Must say I'm with WW & don't like slips, the first time I saw them that's exactly what I thought - some dill had cut the bottom too short! -
    My other objection is having the obstructions inside the drawer, though I suppose it's a minor point. The sides of your drawer were adequate dimensions for grooves, IMO. I often add slips of harder material to the sides underneath the bottom to create a larger wear surface. They require careful glueing so they don't stick the bottom & defeat the purpose of a loose groove, of course, but are otherwise easy & serve the purpose.

    Borttom thickness is dependant on the material chosen, I would have thought. WW refers to some pretty thin dimensions, but I presume he is talking about Oak? Not sure what would give an equivalent strength/weight ratio here, but Tassie Oak might come close. I like to use Camphor for drawer bottoms in this sort of application, which would mean about 1/2" thick for the size of this drawer. To fit the grooves, I just run a shallow bevel round 3 sides - usually rough-cut on the TS, then fitted by planing to size. I tend to burn a few more electrons than you!

    Cheers,
    IW

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,271

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Borttom thickness is dependant on the material chosen, I would have thought. WW refers to some pretty thin dimensions, but I presume he is talking about Oak?
    Sorry, I should have been more specific. The very fine stuff refered to was always Oak (720 kg/m3), although some 3/8" drawer stuff was often of Pine. Now don't imagine this was anything like Radiata Pine (480 kg/m3) or Kauri, the stuff used in the UK and Europe was Redwood (also known as Red Deal, Scots Pine or Baltic - if sourced from that region). Growing in cold regions and/or higher altitudes, Redwood was dense (510 kg/m3) and was a very respectable timber. I've seen a few sticks of similar quality, close ringed 'Baltic Pine' here in Australia, but the majority of it is somewhat softer and lighter in weight having been recently farmed.

    The thicker, country drawer stuff was sometimes made of Redwood, but Whitewood (Spruce, White Deal, Fir etc. - 390 kg/m3) and (Sweet) Chestnut (540 kg/m3) were also used in thicker dimensions.

    Tassie Oak is around 640 kg/m3.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

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