Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    484

    Default Drilling straight with a brace and bit

    I've finally got back to the shed after a few busy months, and am working on some home-made sash clamps.

    I've been having trouble drilling perfectly straight holes with brace and bit.

    My first inclination was to cheat and use a dowel jig, but this won't work with the shape of Irwin bits, and the hole needs to be too large for twist bits (must be 1/2").

    I've tried propping up a square next to the drill, which helps, but I'm still not getting the accuracy I need.

    I wanted to make my own jig (just a block of wood with a straight hole perpendicular to the bearing face) but in order to make this, I would need to, um, drill a straight hole.

    Any tips? Or, as usual, is practice the only way?
    Cheers,

    Eddie

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,524

    Default

    Geeeeeeeeeoooooooffffffffffff!!!!!!

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,524

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,381

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snafuspyramid View Post
    I've finally got back to the shed after a few busy months, and am working on some home-made sash clamps.

    I've been having trouble drilling perfectly straight holes with brace and bit.

    My first inclination was to cheat and use a dowel jig, but this won't work with the shape of Irwin bits, and the hole needs to be too large for twist bits (must be 1/2").

    I've tried propping up a square next to the drill, which helps, but I'm still not getting the accuracy I need.

    I wanted to make my own jig (just a block of wood with a straight hole perpendicular to the bearing face) but in order to make this, I would need to, um, drill a straight hole.

    Any tips? Or, as usual, is practice the only way?
    2 blocks of wood (70x35x100 approx) at 90 deg to form an internal corner, locate at position of hole, clamp and then hold bit in the corner and off you go
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,826

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snafuspyramid View Post
    I've finally got back to the shed after a few busy months, and am working on some home-made sash clamps.

    I've been having trouble drilling perfectly straight holes with brace and bit.

    My first inclination was to cheat and use a dowel jig, but this won't work with the shape of Irwin bits, and the hole needs to be too large for twist bits (must be 1/2").

    I've tried propping up a square next to the drill, which helps, but I'm still not getting the accuracy I need.

    I wanted to make my own jig (just a block of wood with a straight hole perpendicular to the bearing face) but in order to make this, I would need to, um, drill a straight hole.

    Any tips? Or, as usual, is practice the only way?
    Hi Eddie

    A square alongside helps. What I also do is to watch the shaving and the hole being formed. As the bit cuts in, it should leave behind a flat, even surface. That is, the surface should not cant at any point but have walls that are equidistant all around. Once you have gone down about 1 - 1 1/2", the hole should keep the bit straight.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Liverpool, England
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    2 blocks of wood (70x35x100 approx) at 90 deg to form an internal corner, locate at position of hole, clamp and then hold bit in the corner and off you go

    As above but with pictures...

    Can’t See Straight! | The English Woodworker

  8. #7
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bakers Hill WA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    1,077

    Default

    Now look what you've done!
    I should be out in the shed doing stuff, instead of which I'm sitting here learning stuff.
    Paul you're a LEGEND!! thanks for posting, you too Kopend.
    Geoff.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    925

    Default

    I saw a trick on the net for horizontal boring where you put a small ring on the bit. When the ring is stationary, neither rising up the bit or falling down then the bit is horizontal.
    My age is still less than my number of posts

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Minnesota, USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    I usually eyeball square in front of me and use a mirror with a square at 90 degrees to the other line of sight, guide off of the center of the bit rather than the edge. A laser level also works. set the laser square to the work surface and it will shine a line right up the center of the bit. to make a jig that is square bore a hole as square as you can through a thick block. slide a dowel through the hole and check for square, then plane the bottom of the block to be square to the hole.
    Mike

  11. #10
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bakers Hill WA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    1,077

    Default

    That wedding ring trick reminded me of when I was a kid.
    In our wool shed, someone (probably Dads brother, the mechanic of the family) had fitted large piston rings over the shaft of the overhead that drove the shearing machines. The rings would spend the day running back and forth between the support bearings and the various pulleys. No idea why they were there.
    Geoff.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    3,191

    Default

    I was taught that using a square would help also starting almost at arms length so it was easier to see any lean and then moving to a position at right angles to do the same.
    Cheers,
    Jim

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    484

    Default

    Brilliant! I'm still always surprised by how helpful and knowledgeable you are, oh wise ones. I will try the trick with the simple jig tomorrow. I also like the one with the upside-down CD, providing a mirror in all directions - very clever indeed.
    Cheers,

    Eddie

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,524

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boringgeoff View Post
    That wedding ring trick reminded me of when I was a kid.
    In our wool shed, someone (probably Dads brother, the mechanic of the family) had fitted large piston rings over the shaft of the overhead that drove the shearing machines. The rings would spend the day running back and forth between the support bearings and the various pulleys. No idea why they were there.
    Geoff.
    There is a word for it ... but they were in the line-shaft shop Roy Underhill went to ... have you seen it? They kept rust and dust off the shafts I believe.

    Cheers,
    Paul

    Pretty sure it is: http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3100/3113.html

    Nope: http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/2600/2612.html see 14:26-17:00 "mice"

    and I hope you have watched: http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/2800/2807.html !!

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,524

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by msiemsen View Post
    to make a jig that is square bore a hole as square as you can through a thick block. slide a dowel through the hole and check for square, then plane the bottom of the block to be square to the hole.
    Mike
    I like that very much! Smart smart smart.

  16. #15
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bakers Hill WA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    1,077

    Default

    Hi Paul,

    So "mice" of you to post that video, thats the only other time I've seen rings used on the shaft like that.

    I can't agree with the comments about the Spofford braces on the Sawmill Creek site re them being made of wrought iron. I'm no metalurgist but the ones I've got are made of sterner stuff than that. The last poster there mentions them getting bent from dropping on the floor......must have been dropped at a fair velocity.

    Geoff.

Similar Threads

  1. Drilling clean with a brace and bit
    By snafuspyramid in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 9th July 2012, 11:12 AM
  2. Aluminium straight edge - not so straight
    By Dengue in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 7th November 2010, 09:54 AM
  3. Help drilling straight holes!!!
    By woodnovice in forum GENERAL & SMALL MACHINERY
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 30th August 2009, 03:19 PM
  4. Drilling straight dog holes... how??
    By tomnewby in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 27th June 2009, 08:22 PM
  5. 3m straight edge - or how straight can one get angle iron
    By burn in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 16th February 2004, 07:06 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •