Thread: Elvicta spirit level

Trying to resurrect this thread. Any suggestions on best way to restore a level like this? I'm pretty comfortable generally, but keen to keep the label if at all possible.

Thanks

Trav

Hi Trav.

Unless you want a "beyond as new" restoration I'd be inclined to invest in a roll of premium masking tape and a scalpel.

You should be able to mask over the label accurately and then sand carefully. A moderately fine grit paper to start should not go through the edge of the masking tape - sanding in long smooth strokes in one direction only. (Sand in the direction of the tape, not across it.)

I'd go a similar strategy for the brasswork too, rather than take it off. Because if you take it off the glass is very likely to shift, and then you have to restore the level which can be a pain in the boondocks to do. (Assuming the thing is reading level now of course. Which is not a given.)

If you mask the wood and trim carefully at the edges of the brass plate there's no reason you can't then go at it (with a reasonable level of care and not too much pressure) on an unstitched bench grinder cloth flap wheel using white polishing compound. It's far and away the easiest and least messy way to polish brass to a smooth, bright finish.

As with the sanding, orient the polishing wheel along the edge of the tape, not across it, and all should be well.

I quite like the patina as is. Give it a good clean with some 0000 steel wool and a good wax and call it done
That way the label and background will fit in.

I have an old spirit level that was my grandfathers, it was grubby and the brass was green. I unscrewed the brass and cleaned it up a little and gave it a coat of shellac. Sanded back the timber and shellac over the top. Not a complete restoration as I wanted the character to remain. It's a shelf queen in the lounge room.

Thanks for the replies. Good ideas.

I'm keen to make this a working tool. Levels seem pretty accurate compare to my other levels. There is a bit of a crown along the narrow edge - prob 1mm over the length. I'll need to straighten that out too.

I've got some quality masking tape and will overtape the label with the hope I can preserve it. I've got a big piece of float glass. I'll stick some sandpaper to it and use that to straighten things out, then a block and paper to sand around the label.

For the brass, I was thinking I'd just rub it back on some wet and dry sandpaper, then buff and wax. It's pretty messy, scratched and dented.

Cal - did you use shellac on the brass too?

Thanks

Trav

Yes, a couple of coats, just to stop it dulling off. Wax would work for you as you will be using it, the shellac may chip off over time. Give the wax a go, if it starts to dull just rub it back and refresh it. Will be good to see the end result.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Trav,

The transfer on your level is rather delicate, if you put masking tape over it, there is a very strong chance that you will lift most if not all of it when you remove the tape.

Graham.

From the pics it looks to me like the existing finish might scrape off. You might be able to scrape to an accurate line with the point of a standard box cutter blade, perhaps make a light cut around the label to make sure you break the finish outside the label edge first. The label looks like it is a water transfer over the original finish and I'd be scared to of any masking tape lifting it.

A fair concern to consider, but I would suggest that the risk is minimal. I've successfully used it for this very purpose more than once. Quality paper based masking tape (such as the blue 3M) is very low tac for that reason, so that it should not lift even lightly bonded surface coats.

If the transfer is crumbly enough that 3M blue will lift it, then it's going to fall off all on it's own.

Anyhoo. If Trav is concerned an alternate suggestion would be to cut a strip of tape 3 to 4 mil wide and tape it around the outer edge of the transfer. This will give an adequate buffer against inaccurate sanding, and when removed the narrow, even strip of unsanded wood will be kind of like a picture frame.

He could always coat the label with some poly before tapping it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks all. I started last night, cleaning up the brass on 800 grit wet and dry and 240 grit on the timber. I really like Cal's idea of a bit of poly over the label - will do that on the weekend. It's too cold to use poly in canberra at the moment. Minus 6 at night lately means it won't cure properly. I'll try this weekend when I can put it somewhere warm!
Thanks
Trav


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Good luck with it, show us the end result [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Trav

I really like Cal's idea of a bit of poly over the label - will do that on the weekend. It's too cold to use poly in canberra at the moment. Minus 6 at night lately means it won't cure properly. I'll try this weekend when I can put it somewhere warm!
Thanks
Trav


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It is a clever thought that makes me thin "geez that's obvious" , but only after having it pointed out.

Drying being a problem, it occurs to me that clear nail polish might be an effective alternative - and with that cute little brush to help do an accurate job.

I would think that nail polish would chip easy and also possibly lift or damage the label. It is usually acetone based and fairly aggressive. Polly would be the first choice or at a pinch epoxy. What finish is used on the label would be the same as what the remainder of the level is finished with.