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10th February 2013, 02:43 PM #151Senior Member
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Thanks for the advice Ian, sounds pretty sensible. I think I'll use your bolts idea when I get around to making one. Not sure what I'll do about a blade though. Bandsaw blades might be a good way to go, as they're not terribly expensive. This might be a silly question, but I don't, and have never, done a lot of metalwork. How do you go about safely drilling a hole in the bolt? And with the screw, if it's soldered on how do you change the blade? Or do you just not?
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11th February 2013, 09:53 AM #152
MC - the metal bits look like this:
Metal bits.jpg
The shaft goes throughthe arm of the saw, & the rim takes the strain when the saw is tensioned. These are overly elaborate, & if you used a couple of bolts, the bolt heads would be what takes the strain, so there is no problem assembling the saw or changing blades. I solder the handle screw in because it is much easier to make the end-piece this way.
To drill a straight hole through a cylinder, you need a vee-block that can be clamped to the table of a drill-press (or held in a drill vise). These are easily made from a block of square hardwood if you have acces to a tilting-arbor saw. You could also cut one out with a handsaw, if you are very careful.
Cheers,IW
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11th February 2013, 03:21 PM #153Senior Member
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Oh ok, I misunderstood. I thought you meant using the screw as a pin to hold the blade on. If not then what do you use as the pin?
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11th February 2013, 09:15 PM #154
A small nail. Something about 1-1.5mm diameter is good.
That requires a hole in the blade, of course, so if you are making your own blade, you need to drill the holes. This can be done with an ordinary HSS twist drill (just). Saw grade steel is very hard on HSS, so you will only manage a few holes out of a drill before it needs sharpening.
Coping saw blades & the Grammercy blades come with a small pin soldered into each end, so instead of a hole in the sahft, you need to make a small notch for the pin to slip into (just take a look at a coping saw next time you come across one & you'll immediately see what's required). You can cut the notch with a hacksaw. On a brass shaft, I use one of those flattened 4-sided files (can't think what their proper name is atm), because it makes just the right sized notch.
Cheers,IW
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11th February 2013, 09:38 PM #155Senior Member
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Cool, good to know. Wish the weather would stop playing silly buggers so I can get on with it.
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11th February 2013, 09:44 PM #156
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11th February 2013, 10:04 PM #157
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11th February 2013, 10:24 PM #158
Wrong! Having brain fade - a warding file doesn't have safe edges.
I did a bit of googling, and you could use a small knife-file (illustrated here)
But the file I was thinking of is the one illustrated in this article (scroll down the page a bit & you'll see it) - it looks like two knife-files back to back. Seems like it's called a 'Japanese saw file' . So why couldn't I remember that?
Cheers,IW
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11th February 2013, 10:33 PM #159
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11th February 2013, 11:06 PM #160
I've also seen them referred to as 'feather files'.
Cheers...I'll just make the other bits smaller.
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12th February 2013, 07:32 AM #161
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12th February 2013, 05:21 PM #162
I think some places would call it a cant file (but different to the western ones I have).
But ... if it cant file ... why buy it?
Paul
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12th February 2013, 06:12 PM #163Bushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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