Thread: What is your favourite plane

Originally Posted by jimbur

Going along with the dual answers, I'd say first a Dragon Rapide for style. (though for elegance and making a statement the Spitfire says it all)
However, I use a lot of old wood and my old brillant, the one that has a two screw adjustment like a spokeshave, takes all the crap off.
Cheers,
Jim

Jim, I have recently dug out an (extremely rusted) example of a Brillant from the outlaw's shed, unfortunately the shed in question is on the ocean side of Phillip Island, and as such anything not coated in oil/wax oxidises at the speed of rumour (approximately four times faster than that of light).
I was wondering if it was worth rehabbing? The iron is pretty much rusted to dust, and the sole... Well. You can see the gunk that so far has resisted my (fairly gentle) efforts to retract the iron. As the iron is a hair under 2mm thick as stands, I can't imagine there'll be much useful metal left after I clean it up; and I have no idea I would get an iron with the requisite shape etc etc. Is the double screw to control lateral adjustment?
I have put it next to my 60 1/2 for scale, it's a pretty dinky little thing, about 20cm/8" (The comparison also helps keep it relatively relevant to the thread, as I'd say it's probably my most-used plane. Favourite? Well, for sheer joy I reckon my 4 1/2 smoother takes the cake...)brillant 1.jpgbrillant 2.jpgbrillant sole.jpg
Any advice would be much appreciated..

The plane I reach for the most at the moment is a small Japanese number (kanna?), about 180mm long and made of Oak. Probably says something about the scale of recent work . It was sent to me by Japanese printmaker I billeted a while back. Lovely little thing, which I use as I would a block plane, except pulling it towards me. It does work in push mode too.

Cheers,

Needles, you might be surprised if you cleaned it up. Remember it will be rough, do don't worry too much about flattening the iron or anything esoteric. Get the worst of the rust off, make sure an inch or so of the back is fairly polished and then sharpen, or grind a fresh bevel and then sharpen.
There were a lot of them around at one stage - I bought mine in McEwans when they were in the city over forty years ago. There should be quite a few in op shops these days.
Lateral and depth in the two screws just like a spokeshave. For cleaning rough dirty/paint covered timber they can be useful.
Here's a link to what others think of it:
Kunz 300 "Brillant" plane - what is it ??? | Fine Woodworking Knots

Originally Posted by jimbur

Needles, you might be surprised if you cleaned it up. Remember it will be rough, do don't worry too much about flattening the iron or anything esoteric. Get the worst of the rust off, make sure an inch or so of the back is fairly polished and then sharpen, or grind a fresh bevel and then sharpen.
There were a lot of them around at one stage - I bought mine in McEwans when they were in the city over forty years ago. There should be quite a few in op shops these days.
Lateral and depth in the two screws just like a spokeshave. For cleaning rough dirty/paint covered timber they can be useful.
Here's a link to what others think of it:
Kunz 300 "Brillant" plane - what is it ??? | Fine Woodworking Knots

I'll give it a shot...
Cheers!

Originally Posted by seanz

A slightly munched Stanley #220 (broken cap, doesn't affect use) and de Havilland Mosquito, it's made of wood you know.

DSC_7768-L.jpg

Excellent taste sir. Here are my favourites all in the air at once...

I'm also quite fond of my Tsunesaboro Kanna