Thread: new file
13th Jan 2019, 08:42 AM #16
I can see some custom made timber handles there: Just in the second pic, the one where the orange handled (Bahco?) files have not yet received their makeover with a new timber handle, what is that long flat file/rasp with a diamond pattern, a maroon handle and chrome ferrule? It is poking up head and shoulders above all the other files in the circular organiser (partly because it is too thick to locate in the hole.)
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
13th Jan 2019, 09:47 AM #17
Paul, I think it's a Japanese Rasp (Shinto?), which by all accounts are pretty good.
Actually Matt, if those are predominantly Bahco files then they should be pretty reasonable.
13th Jan 2019, 10:24 AM #18
Sorry guys to dispoint you [emoji849]
I think it was just the previous camera angle.
But this is a Shinto there very good [emoji106]
Sorry sorry just re read everything Paul yes itís a Shinto,
13th Jan 2019, 11:11 AM #19Doug3030's Open Shed Day 2019 - Sunday 6 October 2019, Hoppers Crossing
See here for details: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f303/...-2019-a-224305
13th Jan 2019, 04:29 PM #20
13th Jan 2019, 04:33 PM #21
13th Jan 2019, 09:33 PM #22
31st Oct 2019, 05:52 PM #23
I took some pictures of these yesterday . I don't remember If I put them up on forum somewhere before ? I did take pictures of them a while ago for posting .
The re use of some of my files has been into router bits of all things . They are either welded or brazed onto 1/2 inch rod . Then Annealed which is heat up red hot and bury in a bucket of sawdust with a lid so it cools as slow as possible . The file steel is soft as butter after that. Then I grind and balance . One side is for cutting the other for balance . Then harden the cutting edge and grind sharp. I always start them up with a thick lump of wood between the cutter and me just in case something comes loose which would hit me where I or any bloke would least want to be hit . My inverted router table has things at pants zip height !! Nothings ever failed in 20 years of making these . Not really surprising because if your get a hammer and place such a weld or braze on an anvil and go as hard as you can at it, it stays put or takes 20 times normal punishment to break something .
This little OG went into this stool yesterday . A quick sharpen because its done so many stool rails and it cut as clean and crisp mould as can be had.
And these ones below have all done special jobs over the years . The two bottom left are for a sort of inboard mould done on chair and sabre table leg mouldings , the shaft plays a part rubbing as a bearing and the cut is inboard from the edge . . They are all welded ones .
I would not try welding HSS onto rod for this . Ive read Brazing only with HSS. I tried a weld on a turning chisel, HSS to mild steel and it failed.
31st Oct 2019, 06:44 PM #24
Been meaning to look up the metallurgical explanation for what happened, but haven't got around to it yet, but I have confirmed that ye canna weld HSS with a simple stick welder.....
31st Oct 2019, 10:46 PM #25
31st Oct 2019, 11:03 PM #26
Joining mild steel to HSS? explains
Braze it with your choice of brazing rod or even silver solder.
HSS does not weld very well...you can sort of stick it together but it's not easy to make a reliable weld.
from a quick perusal it appears that part of the problem with stick welding HSS is similar to the problems folks who don't know better have with welding cast iron.regards from Canada
By Bushmiller in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 8Last Post: 2nd Aug 2016, 07:43 PM
By hiroller in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 10Last Post: 11th Feb 2016, 06:23 PM
By sacc51 in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 22Last Post: 26th Aug 2015, 08:32 PM
By RETIRED in forum COMPUTERSReplies: 3Last Post: 3rd Aug 2011, 09:31 PM
By John Saxton in forum WOODIES JOKESReplies: 0Last Post: 7th Nov 2002, 10:55 PM