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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    This is my approach

    (Brett close you’re eyes when looking at the second pic[emoji849])

    Cheers Matt,
    Matt

    I can see some custom made timber handles there: Just in the second pic, the one where the orange handled (Bahco?) files have not yet received their makeover with a new timber handle, what is that long flat file/rasp with a diamond pattern, a maroon handle and chrome ferrule? It is poking up head and shoulders above all the other files in the circular organiser (partly because it is too thick to locate in the hole.)

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  2. #17
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    Paul, I think it's a Japanese Rasp (Shinto?), which by all accounts are pretty good.
    https://www.japanesetools.com.au/pro...hinto-saw-rasp

    Actually Matt, if those are predominantly Bahco files then they should be pretty reasonable.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  3. #18
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    Default new file

    Sorry guys to dispoint you [emoji849]

    I think it was just the previous camera angle.
    But this is a Shinto there very good [emoji106]


    Cheers Matt


    Sorry sorry just re read everything Paul yes itís a Shinto,

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    I don't throw any out , just keep adding to them. Or very rusty worn ones go to the rusty steel section in a bucket . They sometimes get cut up for other tools.
    I save any old files to recycle into other tools or knives. Adding a forge and anvil to the workshop inventory isn't cheap but it greatly increases what you can do.
    Doug3030's Open Shed Day 2019 - Sunday 6 October 2019, Hoppers Crossing
    See here for details:
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f303/...-2019-a-224305

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    so you just "throw" yours into a drawer too
    regards from Canada

    ian

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    Any new precious ones I get I wrap in a roll of canvas .
    One goes down onto the canvas, roll it once then the next and so on .

    All the rest get placed in a drawer. I Try to place them softly and don't go rattling them around but I haven't yet got around to doing anything else .
    mine are placed carefully in a drawer as well. I made a simple slot system so once in the drawer the files don't touch unless you upend the drawer.
    regards from Canada

    ian

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    so you just "throw" yours into a drawer too
    Yep, I'll give you a demo next time you're here. It's a combination of insane accuracy and judgement, and cunning placement of rare earth magnets.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    Any new precious ones I get I wrap in a roll of canvas .
    One goes down onto the canvas, roll it once then the next and so on .

    All the rest get placed in a drawer. I Try to place them softly and don't go rattling them around but I haven't yet got around to doing anything else .

    Funny thing is they still all cut metal or wood ok. I don't throw any out , just keep adding to them. Or very rusty worn ones go to the rusty steel section in a bucket . They sometimes get cut up for other tools.

    I took some pictures of these yesterday . I don't remember If I put them up on forum somewhere before ? I did take pictures of them a while ago for posting .

    The re use of some of my files has been into router bits of all things . They are either welded or brazed onto 1/2 inch rod . Then Annealed which is heat up red hot and bury in a bucket of sawdust with a lid so it cools as slow as possible . The file steel is soft as butter after that. Then I grind and balance . One side is for cutting the other for balance . Then harden the cutting edge and grind sharp. I always start them up with a thick lump of wood between the cutter and me just in case something comes loose which would hit me where I or any bloke would least want to be hit . My inverted router table has things at pants zip height !! Nothings ever failed in 20 years of making these . Not really surprising because if your get a hammer and place such a weld or braze on an anvil and go as hard as you can at it, it stays put or takes 20 times normal punishment to break something .

    This little OG went into this stool yesterday . A quick sharpen because its done so many stool rails and it cut as clean and crisp mould as can be had.

    IMG_2644.JPGIMG_2645.JPGIMG_2648.JPG


    And these ones below have all done special jobs over the years . The two bottom left are for a sort of inboard mould done on chair and sabre table leg mouldings , the shaft plays a part rubbing as a bearing and the cut is inboard from the edge . . They are all welded ones .
    IMG_2647.JPG


    I would not try welding HSS onto rod for this . Ive read Brazing only with HSS. I tried a weld on a turning chisel, HSS to mild steel and it failed.

    Rob

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    .... I would not try welding HSS onto rod for this . Ive read Brazing only with HSS. I tried a weld on a turning chisel, HSS to mild steel and it failed.......
    Yep, I've been told several times that you can't weld HSS with a stick welder, so out of curiosity, I welded two bits of HSS together to see what happens. The weld seam looked perfect, and I was thinking "What's all the fuss about then?". My smugness didn't last long, I was cleaning up the weld on the grinder (after it cooled!) and it snapped on the HSS side of the weld, about a mm from the weld itself. I didn't think I'd done anything particuarly rough to it, so I gripped the weld seam in a vise & broke it on the other side of the weld, with about as much force as you'd need to snap a fresh baby carrot.

    Been meaning to look up the metallurgical explanation for what happened, but haven't got around to it yet, but I have confirmed that ye canna weld HSS with a simple stick welder.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post

    I didn't think I'd done anything particuarly rough to it, so I gripped the weld seam in a vise & broke it on the other side of the weld, with about as much force as you'd need to snap a fresh baby carrot.
    That's the same as my attempt on the chisel Ian . It just fell in half at the lathe on its first test!
    I couldn't believe it at first. lol . It was like I'd stuck it together with spit

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Yep, I've been told several times that you can't weld HSS with a stick welder, so out of curiosity, I welded two bits of HSS together to see what happens. The weld seam looked perfect, and I was thinking "What's all the fuss about then?". My smugness didn't last long, I was cleaning up the weld on the grinder (after it cooled!) and it snapped on the HSS side of the weld, about a mm from the weld itself. I didn't think I'd done anything particuarly rough to it, so I gripped the weld seam in a vise & broke it on the other side of the weld, with about as much force as you'd need to snap a fresh baby carrot.

    Been meaning to look up the metallurgical explanation for what happened, but haven't got around to it yet, but I have confirmed that ye canna weld HSS with a simple stick welder.....
    not sure of the full metallurgical explanation, but this site Joining mild steel to HSS? explains

    Braze it with your choice of brazing rod or even silver solder.
    HSS does not weld very well...you can sort of stick it together but it's not easy to make a reliable weld.


    from a quick perusal it appears that part of the problem with stick welding HSS is similar to the problems folks who don't know better have with welding cast iron.
    regards from Canada

    ian

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