Thread: Finally got my Stanley 55 !!!

Jake,

This thread caused me to give my old 50S a run last night. Fun to use, I had to go back to the instructions to figure out why the 1/8 and 3/16 plough blades were loose and how to fit them tightly.

I should have my 55 soon, I am now very curious about the differences in performance. I doubt if there will be any difference.

I was trying to figure out how to cut grooves for the bottom of boxes. Obviously the groove has to stopped at both ends. The 50 and a Marples smaller plane don't seem to be able to do it easily. As soon as the the front of the sole strikes the end, it's all over rover. I am working on a way around the problem but doubt if I will have something in place by the weekend.

On the weekend I am demonstrating some woodwork up the bush in Victoria but cannot use power tools unless they are tagged.:mad: :mad: :mad: Here I will be driving over 500 Km at my own expense, taking a heap of expensive hand tools to cut my timber for the entertainment of others but the authorities want me to get my router tagged at my expense or don't use it.

I was going to use one of my electric routers for the bases of the boxes but now can't. I was looking at the hand plane option. Looks like I'll just glue the bases on - not the right way - will probably split the base eventually but at least the rotten festering slime scum goody goody authorities will be satisfied and Wood Borer will not be sued or thrown into a detention centre without trace.

Hi wood borer,

Your right, I think, about stoping grooves with the combination plane. Too hard I think. Powered router probably better there. As you know, if you mitre you boxes at the groove you don't need to stop.......That might be too involved for your demo though. ?

I got a picture here of my no.50. I'll throw it in. Cutting a bead in this shot. I've really become very camera happy lately.

Hope you have a good trip and come back safely.

Jake.

Thanks Jake,

The boxes will be through hand dovetailed so the through grooves aren't possible. Small boxes with glued bases should be OK for the occasion.

If they are half reasonable and there is an interest in them, I'll give them away in return for a donation to the local hospital or some other local charity.

I was trying to figure out how to cut grooves for the bottom of boxes. Obviously the groove has to stopped at both ends.

Try drilling a hole at each end of the groove-to-be. Preferably a few holes in line (= mortise). Then begin planing at the end of the line (finishing at the beginning of the line). You will have to plane against the grain to clean out the end bit. In fact, you must plan your grain direction from the outset to make this possible.

The other handplane of use in this situation is a router plane, such as a Stanley #71 (or the new LV router plane! Just fantastic!!).

The third method is to chisel out the groove, then use a ploughplane or routerplane to remove the waste (you are paring across the grain, towards the side walls, so the process is fairly easy) See http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...lapsed&sb=5&o= for a similar process (dado cutting across the grain rather than grooving with the grain).

Regards from Perth

Derek

I'll PM you about the wooden plane mate.

Thanks Derek,

The grooves are parallel to the grain, I read your suggestion as if it was for across the grain.

I plan to dovetail the sides of the boxes and then after making sure everything is true, route grooves for a solid timber floating base. This is how I make my boxes at home which works fine.

Because the corners will be dovetailed and not mitred, I can't cut the grooves for the whole length of the box sides.

I can't precut the grooves because I am using recycled timber and part of the exercise is get odd bits and pieces of "rubbish", plane them to size and then dovetail them.

Gluing the bases will be near enough - I know they should float but this time the won't.

When I get my 55 hopefully next week, I will take photos for you and Jake to drool over.

Love to see those photos Wood borer.

Never seen one of those LV #71's Derek. Sound good.

Their is another option worth considering. I quite like these. I've got a photo here I used in some other thread....Its just a practise joint I kept.

Mitred through dovetails.

Basically a mitre that resides at the top and bottom of the joint. Everything else in between is as a normal through dovetail. I like it cause it looks nicer somehow. Simpler, not as busy on the eye. Maybe its because there's less end grain showing too.

Anyway, my point is those ploughed grooves your talking about don't have to be stopped if you lay them out to run through a mitre at the bottom. Just planing the grooves through and just mitre accross them should hide them nicely. Thats another reason why I like these mitred dovetails. Stopping a groove is a lot more time consuming than just plaining through, and means you can use that no.50 as well.

Good idea Jake.

I was thinking about secret mitred dovetails but I have only ever made 2 of them - first was a failure and the second one had a bit of room for improvement. I think I posted both versions on the BB some time back.

I'll take the 50 and if time permits I'll follow your suggestion. I appreciate your photos and suggestions.

Originally Posted by Wood Borer

Good idea Jake.

I was thinking about secret mitred dovetails but I have only ever made 2 of them - first was a failure and the second one had a bit of room for improvement. I think I posted both versions on the BB some time back.

I'll take the 50 and if time permits I'll follow your suggestion. I appreciate your photos and suggestions.

I've never tried a secret mitred dovetail before. Just looked it up to refresh my memory. I see what your saying. Can hide the grooves that way too.

Spose what puts me off these secret joints is that theres nothing to show off. . 'There's dovetails they are !!!!. Really ! ' ......'yeh, suuure they are apricotripper' . Everybody else probabily just assume they were just glued together maybe with some dowel. A test of true modesty I guess. .......Still, I should give them a go.

Seeya.

That's why I made my secret mitred dovetail so you could subtly see into the joint.

Originally Posted by Wood Borer

That's why I made my secret mitred dovetail so you could subtly see into the joint.

Bit cruel. The better you do them the less praise you get.