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26th September 2022, 02:51 PM #1
Fixtures and Jigs for Hand-Cut Joinery
I enjoy cutting joinery with hand tools. I also do use machines on occasions. I favour hand tools but have tried to master various methods.
There are also occasions when I think about creating a fixture to do the task with hand tools. This is not about finding a less risk-orientated method to cut joinery, but just the challenge of creating the fixture. I guess that I just like fiddling with things.
The mortice-and-tenon joint is possibly up there as one of the more difficult joints. The issue here is both fit and orientation. The tenon needs to be a snug push fit into the mortice and, once together, the result must be perpendicular.
I came up with this tenoning fixture about 20 years ago.
The idea is to clamp a stretcher against its stationary side fence
Secure this in a face vise ..
There is a sliding magnetic fence to position against the first cheek line
Saw this
.. then move and position the sliding fence for the other line (allowing for the thickness of the saw kerf) ..
The fixture comes apart, and the magnetic fence can now be used to cut a square and perpendicular shoulder line
What about a fixture for the mortice?
Paul Sellers created a set of saw guides with different offsets for the beauty shoulder. My version is similar, with a few exceptions:
(1) The fixture adjusts for any offset (it is not fixed)
(2) It is held in a face vise, but the chopping takes place on the bench (in my case, over a leg)
(3) It also acts as a hold down.
The front ..
The rear
The fixture is simply a long fence with a fine sandpaper as non-slip, against which the stretcher is clamped, and a short sliding fence, which will act as the depth control.
The marked mortice ..
Place the stretcher on the bench and drop the fixture on top of it. Clamp the fixture in the bench
Now adjust the sliding fence alongside the mortice
Clamp the stretcher against the long fence and begin chopping with the chisel against the sliding fence ..
The aim here is to achieve perpendicular sidewalls.
Another way to use this fixture is to drill out the waste, and use the sliding fence to pare the remaining waste ..
More fixtures coming. Do add yours here.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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26th September 2022, 08:22 PM #2
Derek,
They are fantastic, I can see theres been some thought put into them.
I wish I could follow in your foot steps, my approach to jig making has always been hit an miss, more miss acutely.
There made on the fly, with an inpatient attitude.
Cheers Matt.
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26th September 2022, 09:36 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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In 1966 (start of decimal currency) as a first year apprentice carpenter and joiner I cut 000's of tenons by hand. The joinery shop was forever making timber window frames and flyscreeens. The trick was to look straight down the back of the saw, being a panel saw.
Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture
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26th September 2022, 09:56 PM #4
These are great Derek.
My most used fixture/jig is my home made shooting board.
The base is made from an old laminated (laminex) school desk lid, and the rest is from some wormy jacaranda and scraps.
Tom
TS_220905_001-2.jpg.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/
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26th September 2022, 11:40 PM #5
Rod, sawing ... tenon cheeks, tenon shoulders, dovetails .. anything .. is really a matter of following two adjacent lines. You really cannot go wrong if you do this.
My curiosity was whether one can build a fixture for this task. However, there are many who will benefit from the fixtures. They do work as intended.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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27th September 2022, 09:00 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Derek,
Thank you for showing these very nifty jigs!
What sort of brass bolts tightened by an Allen key are you using for the sliding fence of the mortice jig?
I will shamelessly attempt to replicate these in my attempt to cut mortices & tenons which do actually fit snugly !!!
Cheers,
Yvan
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27th September 2022, 09:16 AM #7
I suspect there will be a diversity of opinions on this issue.
Sawing to a line or chopping a clean, perfectly perpendicular mortise are skills probably most hand-tool enthusiasts aspire to & if you stick at it long enough, they can be mastered by most people. But for someone taking up woodworking later in life when the muscles & nerve pathways aren't as adaptable as they are in your youth, it can be a much slower & more frustrating process, especially when battling away on your own in short time slots squeezed between all the other 'dumb things we gotta do'! Jigs & fixtures can offer a way to get better results sooner, & while some may eventually drop the training wheels, others prefer to stick with the more certain outcomes the aids provide. As long as you're getting the results you want and having fun, there's no shame in that.
There was a time early on in my 'serious' woodworking career when I lost confidence in my ability to saw straight, or chop a straight mortise. I was beginning to think I was just a clumsy dolt & should take up knitting sweaters or some other harmless pursuit, but being cursed with a stubborn nature, I persisted. I found some of my difficulties were due to using inappropriate tools for the task (bevel-edge chisels are not the best choice for mortising!), but most was just a matter of practice. The sawing part was greatly improved by having my saws sharpened & set by people who knew what they were doing (it does make a difference!). Losing access to a good saw-sharpener was the impetus that finally forced me to learn how to sharpen saws for myself & the world of saws took on a whole new dimension..
But now for the confession.
About 30-something years ago, I bought a small hollow-chisel mortiser. At the time I was doing a lot of M&T joinery, and needed to get some speed into it or it was going to take forever. The first machine was barely adequate, but I come from a farming background and a long tradition of persuading inadequate machinery to do its job, and managed to get the thing working tolerably well (the main thing is to sharpen those bits very thoroughly). I got so used to the convenience that I subsequently bought a better machine, so all in all, I have cut few mortises entirely by hand in the last 30 years. I can still do it if I have to, but I'm certainly not very efficient at it.
Cutting dovetails hasn't caused me as much grief as M&T joints, thanks to my old cabinetmaker mentor taking me to task many years ago & insisting I pay attention & cut to the lines (he had a sweet little saw that made it so much easier). I look on a bit of dovetailing as pleasant therapy most of the time, but I will admit there have been a few occasions when I had to cut dozens & dozens of D/Ts and started thinking of ways to speed it up more! So far, I've managed to finish the job before I could dream up any better way....
For the pro, getting the job done to a high standard quickly & efficiently is paramount & acquiring high levels of hand-skill come with the turf, but for the amateur, enjoying the process(es) is equally important, so we manage with what skill levels we can muster. Some folks seem to get even more fun out of making jigs than the eventual product itself, but anything that adds pleasure to your hobby is good, I say..
Cheers,IW
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27th September 2022, 10:42 AM #8
Thanks Tom. Wormy Jacaranda sounds interesting. Never seen it before, only Jacaranda, when a large bough of a tree on our property dropped one stormy night (..It Was A Dark And Stormy Night ..), and it was resawn for boxes.
Good shooting board. I have a couple to post later on.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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27th September 2022, 12:00 PM #9Senior Member
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Perhaps not what you are after Derek, but here is my minimalist jig for crosscutting shoulders. A squared block of wood and a clamp. What makes it a jig I guess is that I made sure all the opposing faces are parallel to within 0.05 mm. That way I can use a try square on any side of the block and know the other side is also square.
AD5D8E01-EBB7-4A2E-B69A-A206A616E256_1_105_c.jpeg5EA12633-01B5-4A8F-9E65-D72CB147D72F_1_105_c.jpeg
2EDEDFCB-2FAA-4CE2-AAFD-C1CDDE18DDFA_1_105_c.jpegA4973045-44EC-486C-8D4C-76CC43E10608_1_105_c.jpeg
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27th September 2022, 08:35 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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So how many will end up on the Lee Valley Website eh Derek. I'm surprised the first one hasn't already.
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27th September 2022, 08:47 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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27th September 2022, 09:32 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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28th September 2022, 12:36 AM #13GOLD MEMBER
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I like the way he cut the shoulders in this video with a special saw, he starts the M&T at about 8:30 if my copy and paste does not go straight to it. By coincidence this was only posted tonight.
CHRIS
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28th September 2022, 02:31 AM #14
Actually, I did design it for Lee Valley. I thought that it could partner the dovetail guide.
At the time, LV has sent me a simple sawing guide. One could clamp it done to saw vertically. My mind took over, and it developed into this tenon guide. The prototype lived with LV for about 6 months. They went back-and-forth on it, and eventually decided not to use it.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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28th September 2022, 10:20 AM #15.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/
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