WD40 for rust prevention... again

**snafuspyramid** · 24th April 2013, 01:29 PM

Sooo... I understand that WD40 is a product that tends to attract polarising opinions.

The general consensus seems to be that it's not much use for repelling rust except in the very short term, as it is primarily solvent and light mineral oil, neither of which are at all tenacious.

I have tried various things to deal with rust on tools I don't use very often. My favourite so far is probably Renaissance Wax, but it still falls short.

However, I've recently discovered that if I absolutely plaster my tools in WD40 - just a quick spray over the entire tool - and don't wipe it off, it forms a relatively thick and messy layer that has completely prevented even tiny spots of rust on spots I've continuously struggled with in the past.

I don't believe it's true that WD40 interferes with finishes. That has never been my experience and there have been a few write-ups recently on the topic.

The disadvantage to this is that you obviously need to give the tool a quick wipe down before you use it. But since that's what you'd normally be doing to apply camellia oil or whatever in the first place, I don't see this as a big deal, and the coat comes off very easily.

I'm very pleased with the pray-and-spray approach so far and as I have mentioned this seems to clearly out-perform any other product I've tried (haven't yet got hold of any G40).

Thoughts?

**Skew ChiDAMN!!** · 24th April 2013, 01:42 PM

If it works for you, good! That also indicates that where you are, moisture isn't a problem. Which, IMHO, is also good!) But there are places where moisture & humidity are a problem and that's when WD40 doesn't cut it.

It does have good penetration and lubrication properties, even if only temporary, so I use it to "break" rusty joints and to wipe down & clean surfaces. I'll also use it as a lubricant when lightly sanding rust off surfaces. These are jobs it was designed for and, IMHO anyway, excels at! I use a lot of the stuff.

But after getting everything cleaned up and moving freely, I think it best to use products that are designed to protect and lubricate for long-term... which WD40 is not.

Me, I spray Inox on my hand-tools and parts of machinery that may come into contact with "to be finished" surfaces. And SilverGlide on parts of machinery that should never touch the wood. (Silverglide & timber finishes are not a good mix.)

**Mr Brush** · 24th April 2013, 07:16 PM

I've tried several of the products like Inox, Lanox, etc.

They all work OK, but by the far the best (and only one I use now) is this stuff

https://www.vespertools.com.au/index...mart&Itemid=34

Chris Vesper, Jim Davey, and a few others sell it. Trouble is it can't be shipped by air, but I just stock up at the WWW show every year. I'm down to my last 2 cans actually, so WWW show time must be coming around soon !!

**Master Splinter** · 24th April 2013, 09:05 PM

See also my little play around with different rust preventatives. Its hard to beat Vaseline for longevity!

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/s...4/#post1552962
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/s...4/#post1590396

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/t...7/#post1598778

**orraloon** · 24th April 2013, 10:03 PM

This is my take on rust prevention.
WD40 is good at rust removal but will not keep rust away. Something that forms an airtight barrier is the go as oxygen is the thing reacting with iron. You could slather everything in fishoil and keep rust at bay for quite some time but it is a stickey mess and not going to make woodwork easy. A compromise is required that keeps rust away for a time and allows woodworking. Most of us clean rust off with WD40 or kerro and perhaps a few other things then rub on a paste wax or a brand rust inhibitor. That said there is no product that will keep rust away for ever so you need to inspect and maintain depending on the local climate. These last couple of years with higher rainfall and humidity I have to look at all the tools more often. Sawdust, shaveings, paper and wood all attract moisture so keep tools away from damp things. Days I dont sweep up around the lathe bed there can be rust the next day. Sawdust on the table saw for a few days is the same if humidity is high. Dont keep tools in cardboard boxes. They are rust attractors of the worst kind.
Inspect often and clean as required while it is still light surface rust. Left alone the problem gets damageing.
Regards
John

**Richie Rich** · 24th April 2013, 10:19 PM

Hi all, I have been using carnauba wax on some saw blades to see how that goes, not sure how it will react with finishes though.Cheers Richie Rich

**Berlin** · 24th April 2013, 11:06 PM

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

I've tried several of the products like Inox, Lanox, etc.

They all work OK, but by the far the best (and only one I use now) is this stuff

https://www.vespertools.com.au/index...&Itemid=34

Chris Vesper, Jim Davey, and a few others sell it. Trouble is it can't be shipped by air, but I just stock up at the WWW show every year. I'm down to my last 2 cans actually, so WWW show time must be coming around soon !!

I hear a lot of praise for G15, it really seems to be the business but I can't find any msds for it. Until I know what's in it I'll stick with lanolin which hasn't let me down yet... and it was a pretty wet summer here.

**Enfield Guy** · 25th April 2013, 08:49 AM

Originally Posted by Berlin

I hear a lot of praise for G15, it really seems to be the business but I can't find any msds for it. Until I know what's in it I'll stick with lanolin which hasn't let me down yet... and it was a pretty wet summer here.

Lanolin is also my choice for rust prevention. Works well, quite inexpensive and hasn't let me down yet.

**FenceFurniture** · 25th April 2013, 09:35 AM

Originally Posted by Berlin

I hear a lot of praise for G15, it really seems to be the business but I can't find any msds for it. Until I know what's in it I'll stick with lanolin which hasn't let me down yet... and it was a pretty wet summer here.

Matt, try "g15 msds" in google and you'll get more hits than Elvis. I know, I know, it's tricky, and who'd a thunk it, but that's what these forums are all about.

**Berlin** · 25th April 2013, 10:21 AM

Yeah, have you opened any of them? They're for everything with g15 in the name, cameras, grout, air filters, something supplied by a furnace manufacturer, some sort of polymer (with carcinogenic, explosive and toxic all on page 1), epoxy glue, paint, clay, solvent cement...

When you get to Australian Inhibitor I can read about the product but no msds.

**FenceFurniture** · 25th April 2013, 10:28 AM

Ahhh, maybe I didn't

**pmcgee** · 25th April 2013, 02:16 PM

This is a good summary ... Technical ... wonder if anyone has tried a closed container or cupboard filled with CO2 or Argon.

Re MSDS ... pacman has been there already ...

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/w...6/#post1620365

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/k...3/#post1588378

Paul

ok ... TDS not MSDS ... but at least we know it's thixotropic

(it's obvious, isn't it

Shear-thinnig and thixotropic effect in complex matter - YouTube)

**Berlin** · 25th April 2013, 03:38 PM

Nup, that's still not enough for me. That's just their instructions.

**derekcohen** · 25th April 2013, 04:59 PM

Try this instead ..

The Official Ultra-Ever Dry Product Video - Superhydrophobic and oleophobic coating - YouTube

Regards from Perth

Derek

**Berlin** · 25th April 2013, 06:44 PM

...ultra ever dry on the lining of a lung, built up in the liver, as an endocrine disruptor...

sorry, I'm being overly zealous about OH&S but anything that does that can't be good for you. That #### ain't right.

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