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Thread: *Gasp* Painting tools...
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6th November 2011, 04:55 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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*Gasp* Painting tools...
I picked up a nice Stanley #80 last weekend, fine in all aspects except for the finish. I did a bit of research and the only way I could find to replace the Japanning involved baking tools in the kitchen oven, which the other half wouldn't be too pleased about so after discussion with the local paint guy I went another direction and used thin layers of a rust proofing enamel, sanding between coats to get as close to the original look as I could.
I know that painted tools are generally shunned, but I'm more than pleased with the results on this one. It's shown next to a recent factory finished Stanley Spokeshave for comparison.
Thoughts?
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6th November 2011 04:55 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th November 2011, 06:04 PM #2
I don't think that restoring planes by painting they is frowned upon. unless it is rare then better left alone. The handles are better left waxed or oiled. Personally I used High gloss Engine enamel on my planes and oven baked them. And poly urethaned the handle and tote. Something I will not do again.
"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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6th November 2011, 07:16 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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I'm considering doing this to a few of my planes where the finish is really bad, as in reality they are users and the job of the finish is to stop rust. I wouldn't have thought to do it a few months ago, but I think that unless it's an antique then we need to look at these things as they are - tools. They weren't intended to be revered, just used for their intended purpose. I think doing that and making sure they are in good condition for years to come is giving them the respect the deserve.
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6th November 2011, 07:26 PM #4
hi Andrew
Try and get some old black 78 records the ones you play on an old record player not the woodwork ones
smash them up into little pieces put in a jar of metho for 3 or so weeks and the old bitumen leaches out paint on your planes surface and they look like new
3 or 4 coats in total 1 coat every 12 to 24 hours
not as nice as the enamel but pretty good
i will post a pic of my carter no 6 later and how it turned out
GregLast edited by Farm boy; 6th November 2011 at 07:28 PM. Reason: forgot to add some stuff
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6th November 2011, 07:38 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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I haven't heard that before, but given the original ingredients of plane finish was a tar based substance I can see why it would work.
Pics would be great thanks Greg.
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6th November 2011, 10:17 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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6th November 2011, 10:36 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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That was only to take pics, normally I have boots or runners on. I wondered if anyone would spot that!
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7th November 2011, 10:21 AM #8
Greg,
I've no doubt you got a coating of something on your plane....and I'm pretty certain it is a shellac based substance with some black mineral type solids in it (like slate). But I don't think there was any bitumen based products in 78 records. The type used in the original japanning formula was Gilsonite, or Ashphaltum.
My Dad was an industrial paint chemist, and 30 or more years ago he told me how the black japanning on planes was done, and how it was the same stuff on the black mudguards on early American cars. As an aside...back before 1955 when he became the paint specialist for GMH, he was a Technical rep for BALM paints in SA, and one of his clients was Pope. He helped formulate, and sell them the blue paint we are so familiar with.
Often I've seen and heard it stated as a fact that the old 78 records were bitumen based, and it seems to me it's another of those popular internet myths that has got currency by often being repeated without question.
Just wondering where that information came from?
Regards,
Peter
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7th November 2011, 11:53 AM #9Senior Member
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Suburban myths
[QUOTE=lightwood;1398026]Greg,
Often I've seen and heard it stated as a fact that the old 78 records were bitumen based, and it seems to me it's another of those popular internet myths that has got currency by often being repeated without question.
Just wondering where that information came from?
Regards,
Peter[/QUOTE
Powdered hard mineral - had to stand up to pressure - guess why you had to change needles? - the tormek of the times!
Lamp black
Shellac as a binder - requires more than instanteous friction to soften it
can you imagine John Cleese in WW1 uniform winding harder and harder on the Decca tin-hat machine as the needle sank further into the bitumen
the numbers of songs about tracks winding back ???
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10th November 2011, 09:21 AM #10
Yairs, I think the fact that the solvent used was alcohol-based says it all. Don't think you'd get too far dissolving a bitumenous product in alcohol.
Just to add a bit of superfluous information - the clay-pigeons of old WERE a bituminous product. Pigs used to get hold of the bits & consume them, which wasn't a good idea as it caused massive liver injury & no more miss piggy. Please don't ask me why, but it must have been relatively common, once, because it's in all the relevant text books, though I never saw a single case in my 40-year career!
Cheers,IW
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10th November 2011, 08:40 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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So besides the fact that it isn't bitumen based, what does it look like on the plane?. I'm not that willing to recoat them in enamel but if I can touch up the finish I'm willing to give it a go.
Photo please Greg
Former vet then Ian?. Do vets have fun tools like surgeons do? I was looking for chisels online and kept pulling up pictures of bone gouges for sale on ebay!
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10th November 2011, 09:06 PM #12
Not a 'real' one, Andrew (or so my my eldest daughter informed me when she was about 10 yrs old). I very quickly found general practice was not my thing & scuttled back to grad shool. I spent my time cutting up dead things, as my better half puts it. Yeah, vets have some pretty scary stuff for surgery, but pathologists have some interesting tools, too - getting an intact spinal cord out of a large bull can be as challenging as cutting good dovetails......
Cheers,IW
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10th November 2011, 10:49 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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Your saw builds suddenly seem a lot more ominous now
So what's the general consensus anyway, what do most people do to repair or replace damaged japanning?
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11th November 2011, 12:21 AM #14
I've not done this for years but I got a very authentic finish on a plane with spray enamel. I picked up an old oven from hard rubbish collection, set it up in the shed and "baked" my finish. When I finished with the oven I put it out in the next hard rubbish.
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11th November 2011, 10:02 AM #15
Don't know what most do, Andrew, but I ignore it!
Some of my oldies haven't a skeric of japanning left on them, & most bear at least a few scars. Thankfully, none of them has rusted or pitted significantly (I guess the oxidised surface from casting is a protection in itself). I wire-brush off any loose stuff & apply some paste-wax. Way bck, I would slather them with oil & wipe it off, but wax seeems to be as good or better at rust prevention, & doesn't leave any gummy residues. By keeping the tools in a closed cupboard, no further deterioration seems to happen. If you live close to the sea or in a particularly challenging environment, it's another story, of course, & something more permanent may be called for.
So as far as I'm concerned, the question of what to recoat them with (or not)is one for the next owner to ruminate on...
Cheers,IW
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