Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 50
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Knox, Melbourne
    Age
    90
    Posts
    79

    Default

    Zenwood

    Many thank's for the quick reply and explanation.

    Robert34

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Eden Hills, South Australia
    Age
    63
    Posts
    3,458

    Default

    Actually, winding sticks can be useful even if you have a multi-$100 jointing machine.
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,639

    Default

    Adam,
    I use a 45mm cutter in my router to flatten table tops. The router sits in a jig and will easily flatten a large slab well before you've finished mucking around with winding sticks and a scrub plane. I usually go from the router straight to a ROS with 220 grit paper. Oh, and I'd prefer a belt sander, not a hand held one though, a big bastard wide belt machine that will do 900 wide tops or slabs

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Forest Grove, Oregon USA
    Posts
    496

    Default

    Hi Robert34, I see zenwood (thanks!) got you answered before I got back here.

    MikeW

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
    Posts
    3,336

    Default

    I was surprised that, until Mick referred to them just now, no-one had mentioned a random-orbit sander, which is my tool of choice for table tops and the tops of cabinets. A belt-sander, I find, is liable to dig in and be altogether too agressive, but a ROS does the job nicely. IMO, you need to have perfectly tuned high-quality planes and a great deal of skill to be able to do the job entirely by Dark-side methods, particularly if you are dealing with a timber with reversing interlocked grain, like quarter-sawn silver ash.

    If the boards for a table top have been properly flattened on a jointer and then glued up, using biscuits to aid in alignment, it should not be necessary to use scrub planes or routers to flatten the top. I have occasionally used a belt sander on table-tops made from wild-grained jarrah, where the thicknesser has caused a lot of tear-out, but normally the ROS is all that I use.

    Rocker
    Rocker

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Near Bodgy, AlexS, Wongo & CraigB
    Age
    18
    Posts
    2,666

    Default

    own both. use both. use the one that feels right for the job - the belt sander can be agressive but i use mine heaps . of course they are noisy and messy however... whatever gets the job done. if your old and arthritic its easier on the hands too.

    bloody dark side!
    Zed

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Lake Macquarie
    Posts
    864

    Default

    what about air ROS...
    Hurry, slowly

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    kyogle N.S.W
    Age
    50
    Posts
    4,844

    Default

    My take on it......

    Beltsander
    - too much noise.
    - Hate dust getting up my nose. So don't use it for general woodwork.
    - Have it screwed down on its back fixed to table. Find it handy for small jobs where accuracy isn't really an issue. Like rounding end grain on a tool handle or some kind of jig. ie. taking small work to it rather than the other way around.
    - Good for metalwork as well as woodwork. But never any good for making a tool surface flat. Just too inaccurate. But, you can round cast iron plane soles to make rocker bottom planes quickly with one
    - Generally its accomidating. Which is what makes it appealing I guess. Like any tool that uses sandpaper, you don't have to worry about grain direction etc. But means you will probably always churn out work with softened edges.
    - Awkward to use I find. Bloody heavy tempermental things. To me its akin to taking a great dane for a walk.

    Hand planes
    - Lovely things. That in general are less favourable to some because they require far more practise to use successfully. But its definetly worth it.
    - Despite all the speed that a belt sander seems to bring, hand planing is definetly not necessarily slower, because you can reach a final finishing surface almost immediately, where as a sanding process has many grits to go through to get to the same result..
    - Generally hand planes don't require ongoing costs. Beltsanders continually need new belts.
    - There so much more pleasing to use.
    Last edited by JDarvall; 25th July 2005 at 05:06 PM. Reason: Thought of something else to say

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,251

    Default

    Use the right tool for the job.
    A belt sander is not a finishing tool and should not be expected to perform as one.
    A belt sander is great for removing material very quickly.
    If you ever use reclaimed/recycled timber, you will probably find grit embeded in the surface, a belt sander will remove this surface easily and quickly. Using you hand plane or any other blade will quickly bring tears.
    Belt sanders and nails do not mix, use your metal detector and remove any nails first.

    Growing old is much better than the alternative!

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,779

    Default

    A belt sander is not a finishing tool
    That very much depends on the situation. Having made probably a kilometre or so of stair treads from meranti in a staircase joinery a few years ago, I can tell you that a belt sander (a large table sander in this case) is the only way to fly.

    I've also used my belt sander to shape rounded ends on things, strip paint and other crap, smooth a coopered panel, etc. etc.

    In my mind, it's like asking do you prefer a hammer to screwdriver or vice versa. They are totally different tools that have their own suited applications. I have no hesitation in reaching for the belt sander when I believe it's called for - but like I said before, that's when I want to sand something.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Perth hills
    Age
    45
    Posts
    1,060

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sprog
    Use the right tool for the job.

    If you ever use reclaimed/recycled timber, you will probably find grit embeded in the surface, a belt sander will remove this surface easily and quickly.
    I use heaps of recycled timber, its the cheapest way to go. I dont use a beltsander though, I have a $15 Indian made #4 with a radiused blade in it. It chatters a bit, but it digs through the outer 2-3mm of weathered crud much quicker than a beltsander, then comes the scrub, then the #5, then the HNT jack, Then the ECE smoother, then the mini-muji palm smoother for trouble spots, then the scraper.

    Of course, I'm still working on the same piece that I started 2 years ago
    Cheers,

    Adam

    ------------------------------------------

    I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia

  13. #27
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Eden Hills, South Australia
    Age
    63
    Posts
    3,458

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LineLefty
    Of course, I'm still working on the same piece that I started 2 years ago
    lol: at least it should've stabilised by now.
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,251

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by silentC
    Having made probably a kilometre or so of stair treads from meranti in a staircase joinery a few years ago, I can tell you that a belt sander (a large table sander in this case) is the only way to fly..
    As the original post was comparing a hand plane to a belt sander I think most replies presumed it was a hand held belt sander, not a table sander.

    Use whatever you wish makes no difference to my projects

    Growing old is much better than the alternative!

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Perth hills
    Age
    45
    Posts
    1,060

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sprog
    Use whatever you wish makes no difference to my projects
    Sprog,

    You sound like one of those.....people....who go to the trouble of ringing up a talkback radio show only to meekly say that they dont really have an opinion. :confused:
    Cheers,

    Adam

    ------------------------------------------

    I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,494

    Default

    G'day Stuart,

    Do you feel the Dark Side coming on?

    Soon you'll be making M&Ts, DTs and whatnot without an electon being burned!

    Cheers!

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. belt sander ???
    By la Huerta in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 25th June 2005, 05:35 PM
  2. Festool BS 105 Belt Sander
    By warmtone in forum FESTOOL FORUM
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 21st January 2005, 11:20 AM
  3. What hand belt sander
    By Norri in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 4th May 2003, 11:36 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •