Thread: Hand Planing a slab

dont tell me you tryied planing the edge off the slab?

here are my ideas:

1. you could buy a jointer and if u have a tablesaw u can rip it into smaller pieces and dress it the glue it back together.

2. take it to some cabinetmaking workshop and ask them to dess it.

Matto

There could be two likely reasons for your experience.

Firstly, it sounds as if you are planing across a flat surface that dips in the centre. So all you are able to cut is the outer area since your plane does not make contact with the centre section. If this is the case, then you have to level the surrounds until you can plane across the entire surface.

Secondly, it may be that the grain of the timber varies from the outside to the centre, with the centre grain being orientated more vertically. If this was the case, your #4 would be able to cut the (outer) long grain but would struggle with the (inner) short grain (identical to end grain). You really need a low angle (or extremely sharp) blade for end grain.

If you are cutting "powder" then your blade is not sharp. It should be cutting curls, even in end grain.

A longer plane (such as a #5, 6 or 7) would be preferred to a #4 since the longer the surface of the sole the flatter you will cut large surfaces. However I do not know how wide is the surface you are planing. A #4 is ideally suited to smoothing and not levelling. The ideal plane for end grain is a low angle block plane.

To continue using the #4 you must ensure that the blade is VERY sharp (SS to 1200 W&D, perhaps even 2000!). Make sure the mouth is very tight. This will only permit very fine shavings, but it is a setting better suited to end grain than a wide mouth (which will dig in).

If you are continuing to struggle, you could first use a router to level the slab, then smooth it with your plane. To do this you need to build a cradle around the slab so that the router can be guided at one level. I (or others) can explain more if you want this info.

Regards from Perth

Derek

You might find it easier to have it surfaced by someone with a woodwizz. Contact them at www.woodwizz.com to find out who near you has one.

Tom Odonnell has a great system for router support wich should enable you to surface your slab. I think he does the woodshow rounds.

here is his link

http://www.wa1.quik.com.au/tod/

then go to projects and router support


Clint

Thanks for the replies. Derek, I think you might be on the money with the curved in the middle bit. I'll just keep slogging away from the outside!!!! I have only just started playing with the scary sharp method - before this I was using a $3 stone. Now I know what sharp is I don't know how I used my tools before!!! I've just made myself a honing guide, so I'll see if this helps. If it works I'll post a pic. I went looking at MIK for one of these but couldn't justify the $80 for the Veritas guide (which was out of stock anyway - don't you hate that) or the $50 for the flimsy looking Staley one. I guess I'll be getting some practice sharpening before this project is done. I'll persevere with the No.4 and keep an eye out for a bigger plane at the markets.The budget won't stretch to a new one yet.

Once again, thanks for the replies.

Matto.

Don't overlook the cheap honing guide.

These are pretty generic.
They're made of grey painted metal and are available in most hardware stores for around $15.

They work well IMO.

Many cabinet makers in Adelaide check out around your area they might have a wide belt sander you could offer beer money to do the job Tonto

Matto,

There is a guy that sells some fairly good hand planes in the Port Adelaide fishermans Market complex, the one right on the wharf area. (he's in the corner @ the bridge end)

You can also try the Gepps Cross Trash and Treasure Market, I've been there a few times and noticed some larger planes for what looked like reasonable prices.

As for the Honing guide, I got one of the cheap ones from Bunnings and it works a treat on the chisels I use.

Hope this helps,

Himzo.