Thread: Hand tool revival

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

...
Simon Barley's book is "British Saws and Saw Makers from c1660."

I got my copy direct from Simon Barley. If you scroll down this TATHS link you will see Simon's email address for contact.

British Saws & Saw Makers from 1660 (taths.org.uk)

I believe it is available in a soft cover version as well as hardback.

Regards
Paul

Ps: No affiliation. Just a satisfied customer.

You confused me, Paul, but a simple answer. Simon wrote two books on British Saws.

Photos: Book Covers.

The first is just 96 pages and AU$29.73 in paperbach.

The second is 748 pages and AU$128.50 in hardback, or AU$131.88 in paperback.

Prices quoted are from Book Depository including prices; I did not look for better deals.

Graeme

I do have both books but I only talked about the large reference work. I think the best option is to buy direct from Simon. This is an extract from the link I posted above:


"British Saws & Saw Makers from 1660 by Simon Barley

The essential 700 page reference book.

Colour illustrated chapters on how saws were made, the centres of saw manufacture, the way that saw designs changed, saw handle design and fixings, types of hand saw, and a directory with detailed descriptions of makers and dealers, and more than 1500 illustrations of makers’ marks.Now available in hardback only from booksellers at UK RRP of £55, or signed copies direct from the author at £49, with free post and packing. Overseas sales will have to be made in the country where the buyer lives, unless they are prepared to pay the postal charges, which from mid 2020 are now very heavy.
Contact Simon Barley at:
Stafford Croft, Brookside, Bradwell, Hope Valley S33 9HF, England or [email protected]. Payment can be taken by cheque, BACS or Paypal."

It certainly included postage, but that would have to be checked in today's climate. Anybody interested should contact Simon Barley direct. A copy should be just under A$90.

Regards
Paul

Edit: I think the reference book is available in paperback and hardback versions. Free postage may only have been for the UK, I can't recall now.

Both saws are 1880!

Bloody hell!

These are certified antiques and delbs is hitting them with turps and steel wool! ... seems heretical

Originally Posted by delbs

My assistant. Always interested in what's going on in there

Ah! The Ball Dog... this little thing is utterly indefatigable... throw the ball, fetch, do again x 1000.


On the saw plates, did you use vinegar?

@woodPixel no turps just bath in vinegar and bicarb then sanding block with paper from 180-600 grit. Then light coat of oil to prevent any rust

Handles sanded and Gillies cabinet makers restoration wax effectively.

Remember this is so I can put them to work but want to make them nicer to look at when not in use

Pretty happy with the results.

And yes Toby is always on the hunt for that ball

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

Managed to move most of my tools into their new home tonight. Get a feel for what fits where and what adjustments I need and which tools im missing

Will raise the cabinet with a shelfade apart of a stand soon from other Jarrah I have and an internal cabinet probably for the planes and saws

Good to have everything in one cabinet for once

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

Whilst on the topic of tool restoration I thought I'd learn to care for my saws from another authoritative source aside from those that reside in this forum of course from 1927 on how to care for your hand saws it describes. Very cool

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Originally Posted by delbs

They've come up nicely so far. Hand sanding up to 600 wet and dry.

i'm curious whether you're doing anything in particular, and what, to prevent gashing up your fingers while hand sanding saw blades? or just careful/lucky?

Originally Posted by banana

i'm curious whether you're doing anything in particular, and what, to prevent gashing up your fingers while hand sanding saw blades? or just careful/lucky?

???
Wrap the paper around a suitable block as Paul demonstrated. As long as the block is around 25mm thick, finger tips should be well out of the way of even the rankest-set teeth. No luck required, but a bit of care not to go above the bottoms of the gullets doesn't hurt. If you snag the paper on the teeth, you'll need a fresh piece very smartly....

Cheers,

Nice work, or brave man. I would not be game to make something that looked like that for my workshop. SWMBO would quickly find a place in the house where "it would look perfect".

Cabinet.jpg

Originally Posted by banana

i'm curious whether you're doing anything in particular, and what, to prevent gashing up your fingers while hand sanding saw blades? or just careful/lucky?

I am just using the sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block and just being careful. Thankfully the crosscut saws im cleaning up i dont have much set left and need to be sharpened again so they are the only ones ive needed to watch out for. The rip cut saws i have have cleaned up fine with my just using a sanding block and treating them with care

Originally Posted by IanW

???
Wrap the paper around a suitable block as Paul demonstrated. As long as the block is around 25mm thick, finger tips should be well out of the way of even the rankest-set teeth. No luck required, but a bit of care not to go above the bottoms of the gullets doesn't hurt. If you snag the paper on the teeth, you'll need a fresh piece very smartly....

Cheers,

What Ian said

Hey speaking of rankest-set teeth, Do the older stanley saw sets around on ebay differ much and how do i select one thats appropriate for my cross cut dovetail saws in order to reset the teeth? just based on the TPI of the saw in question?

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Nice work, or brave man. I would not be game to make something that looked like that for my workshop. SWMBO would quickly find a place in the house where "it would look perfect".

Haha yeah theres a little part of me that feels bad as i removed it from a gentleman living room where it looked really nice. Its really nicely made from a cabinetmaker in WA. But its the exact vibe i am wanting to go for in my workshop eventually. that its a nice warm handtools primarily woodworking space. Certainly will be functional but i do want a few nice pieces in there with the workbench and tool cabinet

Just drawing up some ideas to use the depth of this cabinet as its significantly deeper than a normal wall hanging tool cabinet

Originally Posted by banana

i'm curious whether you're doing anything in particular, and what, to prevent gashing up your fingers while hand sanding saw blades? or just careful/lucky?

I was using my Ryoba once and slipped. The teeth raggedly sliced my forefinger to the bone. It made a right mess.

Effective for hard wood, even better on soft human!