Thread: Handplanes and rust (!!!!!) - New Veritas'

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BWORQS...a-332269648754

Short of being out in the rain it works beautifully. I'm sure there's a local analogue.

Wouldn't you run the risk of leaving oil stains on your work? which can cause blotchy finishing?

I just wax my planes semi regularly (they don't get used often) and don't really have an issue with rust especially on the soles. I get rust on the frog but admittedly they don't really get the same wax treatment as the sole does. This also doubles as lubricant when planing and really does reduce the amount of effort required.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Ive some new Veritas planes.

One problem Im experiencing is they seem to rust really easily. All my other tools are fine - even my cast iron tops (TS, BS, etc). The planes surfaces are impeccable, but if you leave them alone after using them they get pretty gunky pretty fast.

you're in Canberra, if you are getting rust on your tools I think you have some other problem.
do you have a swamp cooler in the studio?

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

Wouldn't you run the risk of leaving oil stains on your work? which can cause blotchy finishing?

The Rustoleum product I linked above doesn't stain. Any transferred to workpieces either evaporates or diffuses so completely that it doesn't leave blotches.

Is it similar to WD40?
I hate the stuff.

Originally Posted by rob streeper

The Rustoleum product I linked above doesn't stain. Any transferred to workpieces either evaporates or diffuses so completely that it doesn't leave blotches.

Not at all like WD40. It's much lighter, appears to evaporate after a day or so but still protects from rusting due to atmospheric moisture. Also serves as a good lubricant on diamond lapping plates.

I use CRC 3.36, it is available from most tool suppliers such as Blackwoods. Like the Rustoleum product it dries to a clear film that doesn't mark work benches or similar.

I usually use it by sqirting some onto a little piece of rag and using that to wipe the film onto the tool.

Bit of a worry, WP! I've had some of my Veritas planes for many years & can't say I've noticed they are any more prone to rust than old Stanleys or Records. Here in Brisvegas, rust is a constant hazard but keeping my tools in cupboards and giving them an occasional waxing seems to keep the auld enemy at bay on plane bodies. I do have a bit of a problem with saws, especially those made with 'modern' steel, they rust really easily, developing localised, deep pits, & I take special care of those.

Maybe Veritas changed the composition of their 'ductile cast iron' in some way that's made them more prone to rusting than earlier batches? (Doubtful). I would have immediately blamed the environment too, as others have suggested, but if you have other cast-iron tools that are ok, I guess you have to wonder what's different about your Veritas planes. I guess all you can do is use some kind of coating that will protect them a bit. There are plenty of choices, but I'd avoid those that leave a gunky residue like Lanolin-based products. That wouldn't go well on plane soles....

Cheers,

I've heard of folk who swear by camelia oil, because it doesn't mark even pale woods. However. The cost of the stuff is outrageous.

My shed is 500 metres from the ocean. Super rust zone.

I use a 100% wax furniture polish thinned with methylated spirit on all of my tools. Quick and easy to apply and it works. You don't need a lot of wax in the mix - my totally unscientific formula is a heaped teaspoon of pure wax into 200ml of metho.

Its not rust like an old engine block in the back yard - it's just a surface patina.

Where I touch it with my fingertips it leaves a mark. I also left a bit of titebond2 and it had a surface spot.

I know Im being somewhat trivial, but these came to me in such beautiful finish it makes me a sad to see them loose their polished lustre!

The camelia oil is a good idea. Ive read about it a few times in Japanese woodwork sites and its an ancient and trusted method of preventing rust on metal object in humid environs

I used to use camelia oil on my table saw, however found the benefits don't last very long especially in open air. So now I only use it on blades which get put into storage after use. Currently have a tub of silverglide which I purchased a couple of years ago and probably have used maybe 1% of the tub. I just reuse the rag as you don't need a much to protect a surface.

I don't like using it on plane soles though as i find unless you've given the newly applied silverglide a good buff with a clean rag it can leave marks on ya work piece.

I use camelia oil and I don't get any rust.

With that said, I'm lucky enough to be in a fairly good climate, far from the ocean, and my shop is in a climate controlled building.

When I lived in Brisbane, I had an outdoor shop, and I couldn't keep the rust off of my tools to save my life. I would have to have a multi-hour session with oil and steel wool every week or two to deal with it.

The best step you can take is get your shop into an enclosed building. Then put your tools into a cabinet which seals somewhat well. I'm not talking about anything that necessarily has any form of "seal", but just something that closes tightly and keeps air exchange at a minimum. Definitely don't just leave tools sitting out.

You could probably get some kind of tool chest, small cabinet, tote, bin, etc that would allow you to seal the lid. I used a rolling, Stanley toolbox for a while. It helped, but my tools still rusted.

East Coast Aus is tough on steel and iron tools. Keep your hands clean, wipe the tools frequently, oil them as much as is practicable, and just, generally speaking, be diligent.

If you already have a tool cabinet or chest of some kind, consider using some kind of passive dessicant which would make the air in the cabinet more arid.

Good luck,
Luke

On the other hand you can just resolve to keep them busy, a rolling stone gathers no moss.