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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin62 View Post
    I pull mine out every now and again and fondle it a bit.
    Attachment 466743
    Colin

    Nice condition: Much like Matt's set except yours has the extra cove in the handle.

    I think it is safe to assume that Matt could indulge in a little more fondling in his steel castle in the future. I have to say I have never before seen my sets in quite the same light as you two, but a fetish is a fetish and not to be discounted out of hand.

    Thanks for sharing.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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  3. #17
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    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Colin

    Nice condition: Much like Matt's set except yours has the extra cove in the handle.

    I think it is safe to assume that Matt could indulge in a little more fondling in his steel castle in the future. I have to say I have never before seen my sets in quite the same light as you two, but a fetish is a fetish and not to be discounted out of hand.

    Thanks for sharing.

    Regards
    Paul


    Paul,
    Dear fellow, you are making assumptions because my home, well really, nearly a manor, is made of 87.5 steel,I use to work on large mostly steel objects,
    I have a few hand saws.
    An a few saws sets, an some other metal objects, here an there, including a small stainless steel ring in my left hear.
    You think I have a fetish for steel?????


    [emoji3064][emoji3064][emoji3064][emoji3064][emoji3064]Matt.

  4. #18
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    A nice little cache of info Paul, & timely indeed.

    Interesting reading the blurb on making your own jointing or 'topping' block (where did you get that, Paul?). I've never thought of grinding the teeth off a file to make it cut 'lightly' - seems a bit brutal, not to mention wasteful,. It would certainly take all the aggression out of the file, but if you want a "light" cut, why not just use a finer file???? I certainly agree with whoever wrote it that "no-one is too poor to have one of these", they take but a few minutes to make from the merest scrap. You can use a wood screw (or two) to clamp the file, I tap a hole & use a 6mm bolt. Wood takes threads amazingly well across the grain.

    Must admit, for light levelling of teeth, I just tap the handle off the file & run it over freehand. It's pretty easy to keep the file square to the saw's face by using your fingers as a fence, and I'm usually only giving it 3 or 4 passes to check that the tops are level, enough just to make a shiny spot on each tooth. However, for large teeth, & if there's a fair bit of filing to be done, using a guide-block makes life easier & keeps my fingers out of harm's way..

    I also follow the advise to reshape the teeth in stages when they are wildly off like the ones shown in the Disston manual. If you are an old hand at saw restoration & sharpen saws every day, you can probably do it in one go with your eyes closed, but I find I have to re-level the teeth at least once (& maybe 3 times with a saw as bad as the one illustrated!), before I get them all looking the same.

    Jim, I think "jointing" is Nth American idiom - I reckon your term is far more descriptive, & from here on I will be topping my saws' teeth, when the need arises...)

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #19
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    Ian

    It came from a book called "Saw Dictionary" by Charles L. Johnson, who by his own proclamation was a saw expert.

    I think it was published just prior to 1900. here are a few more pages:

    Saw Dictionary cover.jpg Saw Dictionary p2.jpg Saw Dictionary p8.PNG
    Saw Dictionary p12 set and joint.PNGSaw Dictionary p14.PNG Saw Dictionary p18.PNG

    I originally saved it when I was researching the Taintor saw Set some while ago. I had the impression that it was sponsored by the manufacturers of the Taintor saw set and EC Atkins, although there is no acknowledgement of this association. Sorry I had to go large size as otherwise the type was unreadable.

    I agree with you that dubbing down the file sounds stupid. Either use a smooth file as you suggested or file lightly.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  6. #20
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    Nov 2011
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    Personally I believe that the tooth being struck deforms the steel to an unacceptable level. However, in the golden age of saw production I suspect this was the technique used as if you were setting dozens of saws per day in the factory it was not as tiring as a plier style set would be.

    After reading Ian comments,then having a re read of your thread Paul,

    I disagree, yes I know it’s early in the new year, an I’m sober [emoji3064].

    But to “deform” metal takes considerable force, to bend metal a fraction as such a saw tooth takes considerable less force.
    An we are just bending the tooth, over a former.
    Not attempting to cold forge the tooth into a square from a triangle.

    Note point
    I’ve never hammered set saw in my life!!!

    Cheers Matt.

  7. #21
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    Sep 2009
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    Hi Paul,

    A very interesting thread that you have started.

    I have a few examples of saw sets, only two of the hammer type,

    One of the Disston star which could have been operated either by
    striking on top with a hammer or by foot from below via a chain and foot pedal.

    The other is a Herrick Aiken type made by W & C Wynn.

    With regard to the plier type sets, I found most examples of many types
    were not robust enough in their design to withstand a lot of use.

    They became sloppy and inaccurate, with the only exceptions being the
    Stanley 42X and the Eclipse 77. Their design and function are similar
    and they are easy to use.

    Graham
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #22
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    victor harbor sa
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    I forgot to mention, an interesting web site for
    information about saw sets is ' saw set collectors resource '

  9. #23
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    Graham

    Thank you for those wonderful pix. Far better than the line drawings from the catalogues I posted. I had read that the Star set could be foot operated but has not quite got my head around the operation. I can see that this would have been the preferred method for setting, certainly at the Disston factory as it allowed for two hands free to feed the saw.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  10. #24
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    victor harbor sa
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    Paul,

    looking at the 2nd picture of the Disston saw set,

    can you see a hole at the bottom of the plunger below the base?

    a chain is attached there and passes through a hole in the bench
    that the unit is mounted to, the chain goes down to attach to the
    foot pedal at floor level.

    Graham.

  11. #25
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    Thanks Graham.

    I see that operation for the foot.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  12. #26
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    I thought I had better put my money where my mouth is regarding a jointer. I used a small block of Tallowwood that I found floating around and an old smooth file where I cut off the tapered section and the tang. I changed the dimensions a little. The block is about 30mm thick and 125mm long, which was the length of the file.

    P1050909 (Medium).JPG

    I could have used the router and a straight bit for the file trench and a cove bit for the semi circular cut out, but decided to do it a traditional way: I was going to say "the" traditional way, but that probably would have meant using as plough plane or combination plane of some description. I have something similar (Stanley No.50?) but it only has straight cutters. Two saw cuts and chiseling for the file recess and several saw cuts for the cove, then break out the slithers.

    P1050910 (Medium).JPGP1050911 (Medium).JPGP1050912 (Medium).JPG

    A little bit of work with my coarsest cabinet rasp, which produces a much smoother finish along the grain than it does across

    P1050913 (Medium).JPG

    I applied paste wax to the face and Boiled Linseed Oil to the rest. I used two clamping screws only because this jointer is a little longer than the original design. It probably wasn't necessary. The screws are a coarse thread with the ends cut off and rounded after the initial thread had been cut. I drilled a pilot hole first so the timber didn't split.I chose round head screws as anything else might catch on the hand.

    P1050914 (Medium).JPGP1050915 (Medium).JPGP1050916 (Medium).JPG

    A file used in this way tends to wear in a single spot so the screws were positioned in a way that the file could be reversed as well as flipped over, but also it can be moved out of the recess a little too. This is another small advantage of using two screws.

    The jointer is more functional than beautiful. It probably took an hour to make including sourcing materials (file, timber and screws.) and looking for mislaid tools I had just a few moments previously. The cost was $ zilch.



    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  13. #27
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    Jun 2010
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    Lurching precariously back to saw sets... there is a very pretty one for sale on Fleabay right now.

    The seller is breaking up a large collection of spokeshaves and saw tools. There is also a little file holder for jointing/levelling/topping purposes.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

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