Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,865

    Default Handsaws at work

    Hi all. Thanks to the generosity of another forum member, I have been busy restoring plenty of handsaws. I recently found myself renovating a deck for a client and wished I had a rip saw to cut a lap join in a stump. To avoid future frustration (and remind me what a pleasure using good tools can be) I have brought this "pair" back to life. The S + J is a 9 TPI cross-cut (medallion may not be chronologically correct but very close) and the Disston is 7 TPI rip saw.

    20210217_093616.jpg

    These are going to live in the Ute from now on and I am looking for ideas on how to protect my just sharpened teeth. Also does anyone know the history of the "double" Disston medallion? I read somewhere that these were made in Australia. Is this true?

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6,973

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Hi all. Thanks to the generosity of another forum member, I have been busy restoring plenty of handsaws. I recently found myself renovating a deck for a client and wished I had a rip saw to cut a lap join in a stump. To avoid future frustration (and remind me what a pleasure using good tools can be) I have brought this "pair" back to life. The S + J is a 9 TPI cross-cut (medallion may not be chronologically correct but very close) and the Disston is 7 TPI rip saw.

    20210217_093616.jpg

    These are going to live in the Ute from now on and I am looking for ideas on how to protect my just sharpened teeth. Also does anyone know the history of the "double" Disston medallion? I read somewhere that these were made in Australia. Is this true?
    Hi Julian,
    Last things first, a piece of electrical conduit split down the centre,would be an idea, or even a piece of garden hose to protect the teeth of a saw while in the back of the Ute.

    But saying that maybe I’m too precious on my real saws but there’s no way I would take a real saw to work, I use new hand saws as cheap insurance, if I hit a nail, I only cry $20/30 bucks.

    Cheers Matt.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,865

    Default

    Hey Matt. Taking the compost up to the compost bin, I saw the same piece of inspiration lying in the grass. Each saw now has a piece of hose and 2 elastic bands to hold it in place. Great minds think alike. And the more I sharpen, the better I will get

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6,973

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Hey Matt. Taking the compost up to the compost bin, I saw the same piece of inspiration lying in the grass. Each saw now has a piece of hose and 2 elastic bands to hold it in place. Great minds think alike. And the more I sharpen, the better I will get
    Tradies for world domination I say [emoji6].

    Cheers Matt.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,094

    Default

    Onya, MA. Why not use the best saw you have for the job!? No point in struggling with an inferior, too-short hard-point when you can cruise through the job with a "real' saw (unless you fear hitting hardware... ) May as well make your work as enjoyable as you can, I say.

    Y'know, you're starting to build up a pretty decent set of hand tools & finding more & more uses for them onsite, it would do your image a power of good to make a nice portable chest to carry around a selection of the "good" tools you are likely to need for certain jobs. This style seems to be very popular - you'd size it so that there is enough room in the drop-front to fit both saws comfortably, and overall width & depth to fit a choice of other tools you want to have on hand.

    I made this for dragging a selection of tools around back when the club I belonged to did demos at wood shows: Box open 2 red.jpg

    Mine was made to carry a very specific set of tools, & sized & fitted out accordingly, but a quick google will find an almost infinite variety of styles for inspiration....

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,402

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    a piece of electrical conduit split down the centre,would be an idea
    That’s what I use; rigid PVC 20mm conduit. Saw or cut as narrow a strip as you can, the PVC grips the thicker saw plate rather tightly and the set prevents it from being easily torn off so you don’t need the elastic bands. Cut a taper on the slit ends so you can easily slide the toe in and just keep pulling the conduit down the saw.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,865

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Onya, MA. Why not use the best saw you have for the job!? No point in struggling with an inferior, too-short hard-point when you can cruise through the job with a "real' saw (unless you fear hitting hardware... ) May as well make your work as enjoyable as you can, I say.

    Y'know, you're starting to build up a pretty decent set of hand tools & finding more & more uses for them onsite, it would do your image a power of good to make a nice portable chest to carry around a selection of the "good" tools you are likely to need for certain jobs. This style seems to be very popular - you'd size it so that there is enough room in the drop-front to fit both saws comfortably, and overall width & depth to fit a choice of other tools you want to have on hand.

    I made this for dragging a selection of tools around back when the club I belonged to did demos at wood shows: Box open 2 red.jpg

    Mine was made to carry a very specific set of tools, & sized & fitted out accordingly, but a quick google will find an almost infinite variety of styles for inspiration....

    Cheers,
    Thanks Ian. The solution I came up with on site was to use my multi tool to make series of cuts, then chisel away waste, then make another series of cuts, more chiselling....it would have been much quicker to have used a rip saw (I have tried with the hardpoints and it is tedious). I am always conscious of being efficient but that doesn't mean hand tools take second place. One other tool I could really use would be a proper framing slick, perfect for cleaning up check outs. I love the tool chest idea but would struggle to fit it in my ute

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,865

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    That’s what I use; rigid PVC 20mm conduit. Saw or cut as narrow a strip as you can, the PVC grips the thicker saw plate rather tightly and the set prevents it from being easily torn off so you don’t need the elastic bands. Cut a taper on the slit ends so you can easily slide the toe in and just keep pulling the conduit down the saw.
    Hi CT. I will keep my eyes open.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,095

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Hi all. Thanks to the generosity of another forum member, I have been busy restoring plenty of handsaws. I recently found myself renovating a deck for a client and wished I had a rip saw to cut a lap join in a stump. To avoid future frustration (and remind me what a pleasure using good tools can be) I have brought this "pair" back to life. The S + J is a 9 TPI cross-cut (medallion may not be chronologically correct but very close) and the Disston is 7 TPI rip saw.

    20210217_093616.jpg

    These are going to live in the Ute from now on and I am looking for ideas on how to protect my just sharpened teeth. Also does anyone know the history of the "double" Disston medallion? I read somewhere that these were made in Australia. Is this true?
    MA

    I am not sure I understand the reference to a double medallion. Would you like to give some more information? Disston's No.99 had three medallions but I think that was the only model that had more than one. Canadian Disstons were certainly sold here in Oz. I think there was some importing benefit coming from a colony.

    The S & J clue is in the "non-break" handle. It was introduced around 1939 I think, but had gone by 1960 in a straight back saw. It was utilised only in the higher end models. However I don't know enough about S & J to offer a closer timeline.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,865

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    MA

    I am not sure I understand the reference to a double medallion. Would you like to give some more information? Disston's No.99 had three medallions but I think that was the only model that had more than one. Canadian Disstons were certainly sold here in Oz. I think there was some importing benefit coming from a colony.

    The S & J clue is in the "non-break" handle. It was introduced around 1939 I think, but had gone by 1960 in a straight back saw. It was utilised only in the higher end models. However I don't know enough about S & J to offer a closer timeline.

    Regards
    Paul
    Hi Paul. By double Disston I mean that the medallion has •Disston•Disston• written on it, above and below the symbol. As opposed to •Disston•USA• or •Disston•Philada• etc. Looking on the Disstonian website, he doesn't list this type of medallion.
    The S&J saw came with no medallion and the one I put on it celebrates 180 years of saw making, which would make the medallion from the 1940's (I read recently that they started in 1760). Serendipitous huh! The S&J saw also has evidence of a nib, would this mean that the blade is older than the handle? If it helps, Matt (Simplicity) told me that these saws came from you originally

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,095

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Hi Paul. By double Disston I mean that the medallion has •Disston•Disston• written on it, above and below the symbol. As opposed to •Disston•USA• or •Disston•Philada• etc. Looking on the Disstonian website, he doesn't list this type of medallion.
    The S&J saw came with no medallion and the one I put on it celebrates 180 years of saw making, which would make the medallion from the 1940's (I read recently that they started in 1760). Serendipitous huh! The S&J saw also has evidence of a nib, would this mean that the blade is older than the handle? If it helps, Matt (Simplicity) told me that these saws came from you originally
    MA

    Now I understand. "Disston Disston" was used during the ownership of Disston by HK Porter, which began in 1955. They moved the business from Philadelphia to Danville in 1956 so references on the saw to Danville place the timeline from 1956, although it is quite possible they would have used up old "Disston USA" medallions for a while too. HK Porter sold the Disston brand to Sandvik in 1978.

    Is there a nib on the S & J saw or are you talking about the "bead," which is the cut away portion at the toe? Often the nib has broken off, if it was once there, and the evidence for that is a very slightly jagged section of steel just before the blade increases to its full width. This is from a 1939 catalogue and, surprisingly, it shows the saws with a nib which you can just see when enlarged (and if you are looking for it). the "non-break handle has a dowel inserted through the grip.

    S and J 1939 starightback.jpg

    From this pic your saw would have been the No.82P I think. Something I have not previously noticed is the reference to a "light beech" handle. Is that the colour or the weight? I don't know.

    Matt's comment on the saw being mine is both correct and incorrect! He collected a bunch of saws on my behalf from down near Melbourne. Sally then meticulously photographed them and I selected what I wanted at that point from the pix and Matt posted them to me. Matt also chose a few saws as his share of the arrangement and the rest, as you now know, Matt offered through the Forum for just the postage cost. Consequently, I have never had your saw in my hands.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,865

    Default

    Ah hah! I thought they had been closer to saw greatness than it turns out . My S&J does have the dowel with a little cap on the top of the handle (reminds me of the flat end of a bullet) and the beaded blade. Even cleaned up, linseeded and paste waxed, the beech doesn't look light but it is definitely the nicer handle to hold. Used the Disston to rip in 42mm thick Merbau only half an hour ago.....and it works!! Any truth to the theory that these Disstons came from a Sydney factory?

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,095

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Any truth to the theory that these Disstons came from a Sydney factory?
    MA

    A factory was opened in 1926. I don't know whether they actually made saws or whether it was a distribution centre for Canadian and American product.

    Very good to hear your saws are earing their keep.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    38
    Posts
    46

    Default

    Going to resurrect this to say that I've been spending a lot of time looking at old joiners/carpenters tool boxes and chests. There are definitely a few designs which would fit your needs and within your constraints. Happy to chat about them with you if you're curious. Otherwise, you can find out the same way I did - obsessively watching youtube videos, google and buying old woodworking books from antique stores!

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,865

    Default

    Hi there SW. I have just used up, maybe, the last of the steel you gave me. Another pair of H and R #14. Blades are cut and profiled but yet to be tempered (waiting for the fire to be lit again). Plane bodies rebated and throats cut, hoping to get through mortises finished soon. Always keen to share info but I think the Ute is already chockers ��

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Handsaws
    By phaser in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 21st May 2020, 12:17 PM
  2. Handsaws
    By kenny12 in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 7th September 2012, 10:33 AM
  3. Some new (old) handsaws
    By scooter in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 20th March 2006, 08:23 PM
  4. Handsaws
    By jhunt_2000 in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 16th February 2004, 05:26 PM
  5. Handsaws
    By John Saxton in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 31st October 2000, 10:13 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •