Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    788

    Default Tweak your cap iron

    I wasn't happy with the way my Stanley 4 1/2 was performing when I closed up the mouth to smooth gnarley figured woods. It seemed to clog with each stroke. Even an old toothbrush couldn't clear the shavings. I'd have to undo the lever cap, and pull out the iron to remove the shavings, and back the frog off a bit to get it to work . Closer inspection on some work showed the beginnings of tearout when I opened the mouth.
    I wanted to achieve that hairline mouth and super fine cuts.
    I'm fairly careful when I initially fettle my planes... so I thought.

    Surgically sharp blade...check
    Flat base...check
    Clean mouth with no dags, and the right angle...check
    Cap iron sitting properly across the iron...check

    After a bit of online research, I stumbled across this video
    http://woodtreks.com/how-to-use-a-hand-plane/21/

    Special attention was paid to fettling the cap iron. Now I was always careful to hone the end that sits across the iron, but when I looked at the cap from the side, it almost had a bevel on the front edge. It wasn't a graceful curve.
    The author of the video states that the edge should be sharp enough to cut.
    So I took to the cap with a fine file and removed the bump and refined the curve. Then down through the grades with wet and dry till I achieved a mirror shine and a sharp edge.

    I put the plane back together, and advanced the frog to the super fine mouth position.
    I held my breath, put the plane to some figured cedar, and advanced the iron bit by bit (still holding my breath ).

    Wow !

    Fluffy tissue-like shavings shot almost vertically out of the plane. My 4 1/2 now works better than it ever has.

    I will no longer neglect my cap irons.

    Sorry if this is old news for most, but it was a revelation for me
    (and sorry for the long winded post)

    Regards all,
    Stu

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Two things I disagree with in the video. firstly, I would not crank down the frog as tight as possible, I'd be worried about stripping a screw. Tight yes, tight as possible - no.

    The second issue is with the flattening/sharpening of the cap iron. If the cap iron is flattened on a stone in the manner described then, when pressure is applied to the cap iron, the leading edge will lift free of the blade and catch shavings underneath. When flattening it is better to have the back of the cap iron slightly below the stone to create a higher angle. In this way, when applying pressure to the cap iron the leading edge remains in firm contact with the blade and there are no openings for shavings to get under.

    I'm sure others will join the discussion.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Bundaberg Queensland.
    Age
    76
    Posts
    372

    Default

    It's never long winded to explain something in detail, because when you explain it like you did its like looking over your shoulder and understanding the problem as it happened and how you corrected it. Lloyd

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    788

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    Two things I disagree with in the video. firstly, I would not crank down the frog as tight as possible, I'd be worried about stripping a screw. Tight yes, tight as possible - no.
    Absolutely agree. Stripping a screw, or cracking the cast iron.

    ....it is better to have the back of the cap iron slightly below the stone to create a higher angle. In this way, when applying pressure to the cap iron the leading edge remains in firm contact with the blade and there are no openings for shavings to get under.
    Agree again. This is the way I've always done it. I use a block next to my stone to ensure the correct angle.

    The main thing I took away from this video was the sharp cap iron edge. It definitely improved performance for me.

    I must admit, I did skim over a lot of this video (I was looking for a solution to my particular problem).

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    I should have also said it is a good video, which it is. I haven't seen many that get it all right and couldn't do better myself. I feel it is too easy to criticise at times, but on occasion it helps to clarify a point or two. There are some other very good videos on that site, definitely worth a look.

Similar Threads

  1. Bailey 41/2 Iron
    By cliff.king in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10th February 2008, 09:44 PM
  2. is iron bark as hard as iron?
    By Gags_17 in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 30th September 2007, 05:54 PM
  3. branding iron
    By typeizcrazy in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 3rd March 2006, 06:34 AM
  4. Clifton cap iron
    By IanW in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 17th May 2005, 07:50 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •