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Thread: Hard Cheese

  1. #1
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    Default Hard Cheese

    I also got a saw plate of a 1900-ish Disston #7 ... and wanted to match it with a Keen Kutter handle that seemed the best match to two of the existing holes and the alignment with the plate.

    20150313_214125.jpg 20150314_083940.jpg

    The top hole is fine ... had to remove some of the back curve of the plate with the bench grinder
    ... I needed to move the bottom hole up a smidge. I figured I'd drill the new spot and dress it with a chainsaw file. Nice plan.

    This plate is hard !!

    Here's where things were/are sitting ...

    20150314_083928.jpg 20150314_083902.jpg


    I applied all possible useful sizes from the following collection of drill bits ... especially the two P+N Cobalt ones I'd bought in the past to make a job like this easy ...

    20150314_083641.jpg 20150314_083700.jpg

    All the drill bits were new, except the masonry bits, but some of those have cut super well in the past.

    Net result ... disappointing ...

    20150314_083739.jpg

    I did try using a punch to start things off ... made a tiny impression.

    I used a chainsaw file to morph the bottom hole in the desired direction, ... but there's two more to accommodate!

    20150314_090712.jpg

    I have a small hydraulic press ... but not punches ... open to ideas

    Cheers,
    Paul

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Solid carbide spade bits are the go.

    But I'm guessing you want to do this right away so get a decent sized nail, put it in the drill press, and apply enough pressure to get the saw plate red hot from friction.. (this anneals the saw plate) Then swap back to a HSS drill bit.

    Ray

  4. #3
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    Hi you could use small dremel type grinding wheels, those torpedoe shaped ones, you would need some coolant probably.I use them to sharpen lathe bits so should cut through you saw plate.



    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    I also got a saw plate of a 1900-ish Disston #7 ... and wanted to match it with a Keen Kutter handle that seemed the best match to two of the existing holes and the alignment with the plate.

    20150313_214125.jpg 20150314_083940.jpg

    The top hole is fine ... had to remove some of the back curve of the plate with the bench grinder
    ... I needed to move the bottom hole up a smidge. I figured I'd drill the new spot and dress it with a chainsaw file. Nice plan.

    This plate is hard !!

    Here's where things were/are sitting ...

    20150314_083928.jpg 20150314_083902.jpg


    I applied all possible useful sizes from the following collection of drill bits ... especially the two P+N Cobalt ones I'd bought in the past to make a job like this easy ...

    20150314_083641.jpg 20150314_083700.jpg

    All the drill bits were new, except the masonry bits, but some of those have cut super well in the past.

    Net result ... disappointing ...

    20150314_083739.jpg

    I did try using a punch to start things off ... made a tiny impression.

    I used a chainsaw file to morph the bottom hole in the desired direction, ... but there's two more to accommodate!

    20150314_090712.jpg

    I have a small hydraulic press ... but not punches ... open to ideas

    Cheers,
    Paul

  5. #4
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    I'm not in a hurry ... I just thought it would be a quick, easy job that I could pretend I had accomplished something.

    But ... I'd still like to try this idea, now.

    Thanks Ray.
    Paul

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Solid carbide spade bits are the go.

    But I'm guessing you want to do this right away so get a decent sized nail, put it in the drill press, and apply enough pressure to get the saw plate red hot from friction.. (this anneals the saw plate) Then swap back to a HSS drill bit.

    Ray
    I used the Carbide bits I bought from ALDI worked great.

  7. #6
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    As Ray sez, a good quality solid-carbide bit is the best solution. Not only will they cut hard saw plate with ease, they will start on a fairly small punch mark, so it's a lot easier to get the hole in the right place. Stewie (planemaker) on-sold one to me and it's been the best thing I've used, so far. Considering what they save you in time & gastric rubor, they are not expensive.

    Ray's other suggestion, of localised annealing with a nail, is a tip an old blacksmith gave me a good many years back. I've had variable results applying it, though - a couple of times it seemed to work ok, but sometimes all I got was lots of blueing, with little apparent change in hardness. I have yet to figure out why, but it must be either the rate of cooling was too high, and it partly re-hardened, or I didn't reach critical temperature?? Since I don't need to pursue that method any more, it's been filed in the 'only in emergency' drawer.

    Definitely forget about using an ordinary HSS drill, unless sharpening drill bits is your main hobby! All you'll get most of the time, is about halfway through (even thin sawplate) and have a very blunt drill, that refuses to go further. But you already know that......

    Cheers,
    IW

  8. #7
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    Ray is right - carbide spade bits go through spring steel like butter. Why stuff around with anything else? Especially when you are dealing with hundreds... thousands of $ worth of saws.

    Cheers
    Peter

    ps they are available in many sizes, if you have a volume of saw plate to hole - make sure you at least have 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4. Check out http://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Latrob.../dp/B006O2S4XI for one source. Enco is cheaper, if less convenient

  9. #8
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    Head to your local Masters store and pick up one of these:
    https://www.masters.com.au/product/9...ill-bit-5x85mm
    Works well and priced right.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    Head to your local Masters store and pick up one of these:
    https://www.masters.com.au/product/9...ill-bit-5x85mm
    Works well and priced right.
    Yep, HR, that's what I used for quite a while. If you only envisage drilling a dozen holes or so, these will do the job well enough. You need to punch a decent dimple to get them to start in the right spot, they are not particularly good starters. I went though a few of these before I got the solid carbide bit - they all expired after drilling a couple of dozen holes. The failure is sudden & catastrophic, and leaves you with a bit of burnished carbide, or the carbide inserts come off because the brazing melts. Cutting fluid only seems to hasten their demise, they last twice as long for me if used dry....

    Cheers,
    IW

  11. #10
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    Some of the universal bits seem to have a rounded tip.
    I have wondered whether sharpening the edges with a diamond plate might make them track and cut better.

    In the mean time, I've actually gone gone down another path and last week, took advantage of the 15% of sale at Hare and Forbes, to pick up a punch and shears.
    PunchedPlate.jpgPunchandShears.jpg
    The shears cut saw plate like paper with a tiny burr and a small curve.
    The punch leaves a small burr and slight indent.
    This is a 10mm and 5mm hole through 0.025 plate. One from each side so you can see the impact.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    Some of the universal bits seem to have a rounded tip.
    I have wondered whether sharpening the edges with a diamond plate might make them track and cut better...
    Yes, they seem to vary a little from bit to bit, some are ok, others less pointy-sharp. Touching-up on a diamond wheel does help....

    Cheers,
    IW

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    I used the Carbide bits I bought from ALDI worked great.
    Are they the glass cutting ones?

  14. #13
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    US$50 and two weeks' wait ... problem sorted. Thanks for the advice!

    Just in place temporarily at the moment. Handle needs some glue and sanding.

    Filing the teeth should be interesting.


    20150416_153551.jpg 20150416_154119.jpg 20150416_154909.jpg 20150416_161158.jpg

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