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  1. #1
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    Default Help with a Dodo (Disston 77)

    So the Disston backsaw that I bought online for $40 arrived this week. I thought I bought a No 4 to use as a crosscut tenon saw. From what I could tell from the pictures and from asking the seller, it was made sometime between 1887 and 1918. The saw plate was flat, and it had some life left in it. Not too much rust either. The handle was in good nick, with no chunks missing. But, it was very, very dirty. Maybe that's what put other buyers off. But, perfect for me to clean up, sharpen crosscut, and put to work.

    My first course of action was to get some 0000 steel wool and glass cleaner, and scrub the dirt off the handle. So far, so good. The black grime came away and lovely apple wood showed underneath a faint patina. Very nice. I gave it a bit of a coat with some orange oil and that was that.

    Next I like to polish the saw nuts. I know some people don't like to do this, but since this saw was intended to be a user and not to sit on the shelf uselessly, I like my tools to look and feel the way I want them too. For me, this means polished brass. The medallion read H. Disston and Sons, Pat Dec 1877, Philad'a.

    Next I looked at the blade, and saw a faint etch. Not many of my other Disston saws have the etch visible, so I was excited that this one still had one. I love the hyperbole of the ye olde advertising. So I read what the etch had to say, and one line confused me. "..... ....., NOT BUTCHERS". Why mention butchers? They don't use tenon saws do they? So this led me to do some research and on the Disstonian Institute website I found that the line actually reads "For Mechaniks, Not Botchers", and my humble No 4 is really a No 77, one of the rarest Disstons made and is taper ground, needing no set.

    So now I am presented with this dilemma. I think I'll keep the saw, but all questions of sharpening it myself have been thrown out the window. For one, it needs a 45 degree bevel, and my saw sharpening skills would not do this justice. Secondly, I actually think it needs retoothing as several have broken off, which is not uncommon as the steel is tempered to be harder than other Disston saws. So, what I want to know from you guys is;

    a) is anyone willing (for a fee, obviously) to sharpen my saw for me, the way that the Disston manual recommends (45 degree fleam, no set) and,

    b) out of curiosity, how much it's potentially worth. I'm not going to sell it, because the way I see it, if it's a good saw, I may as well keep it and use it. But I'm curious nonetheless.

    Well, thanks for reading and I'll post some pictures soon. I have it apart at the moment, cleaning it and whatnot.

    Zac.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Zac

    That's a very good find. My memory is that it will date from the mid 1870s, but I am sure a further check on the Disstonian Institute will narrow the date from the years a No.77 was made and the medallion.

    Could we have a pic of the saw and the medallion if you have time? Just re-read your post. They are coming .

    It is a shame about the broken teeth as a lot of jointing is neccessary to restore an even tooth line. I am led to believe this is common with these no set saws as at some point an attempt has been made to set the teeth with the disastrous result.

    Valuation, even with pix, will probably be difficult and will depend on condition. On the sharpening aspect, if you can sharpen at 20 degs I think you will be able to sharpen at 45 degs.

    Let's see the saw first.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #3
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    May 2016
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    Perth
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    Default Pictures

    Hopefully these show enough detail. If you want some more, I'll do my best to show what you want. Ordinarily, I'll finish the blade to a nicer finish, which I still intend to do, but I was a bit spooked when I found out it was a rare saw.

    Thanks,
    Zac

  5. #4
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  6. #5
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    Default

    Thanks Pacman,

    I think the big difference here is that he was fairly prepared for what it was, and knew what to do with it. That looks like some pretty nice filing he did there.

    Thanks,
    Zac

  7. #6
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    Zac

    I think you have a very interesting saw there. Medallion places it 1888-1896. Earlier than Daryl Weir's saw. I was not aware of the two different tooth sizes. Does your saw have that? I can't see from the pix. Can you measure the saw plate for taper?

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  8. #7
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    Zac

    Something else I should add is that the saw does not apear to have any damage and is a good depth. I love those sunken medallions too.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #8
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    Unfortunately I don't have a micrometer, so measuring the taper will be difficult.

    The saw doesn't have the two different tooth sizes, however the saw has almost certainly been sharpened a bit in its life, so I assume that one of the previous owners filed them all into a regular pattern. I've checked the teeth, and they appear to be rip filed, so perhaps this was something limited to the crosscuts.

    Cheers,
    Zac.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #9
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    If you're willing to pay the trip, I will gladly sharpen your saw for free.

    Regards from Canada.
    Normand

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    San Antonio, Texas, USA
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    Default

    Hi Zac,

    Great find. There was a Disston 77 sold recently on eBay, if I remember correctly it was priced at around $400US.
    Sharpening shouldn't be a problem on your saw, just need to find somebody who knows what they're doing.

    Cheers,
    Rob
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  12. #11
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    What a great find, when you do find someone to sharpen it, don't worry about a few broken teeth, they will grow back with subsequent sharpenings and won't affect the way it cuts. Chances are that someone in the past tried to set the teeth not knowing they were extra hard and not supposed to be set and broke a few.

    If you are thinking of selling it, then I'd be wary of overcleaning it too much. Some prefer to see it as original as possible,

    Ray

  13. #12
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    Good find, as the others have said.

    I guess having a rare saw would make me a bit nervous about what to do with it too. If you were more interested in its collector value, you've already done more than the purists like, so maybe you should stop there & get it back on the market for 10 times what you paid for it?

    I'd be far more curious about its user value, myself. I'd love to see if all the hoo-hah about the taper-ground blade and extreme fleam (which Disston clearly call 'bevel', interestingly) is really as good as they say. (Darryl Weir seems to think so.) Since it was produced for such a comparatively short time, in an era when hand saws were still king, you have to wonder. Perhaps there were just too many botchers and not enough mechaniks around at the time?

    Interesting to me that Disston say in their instructions to use 45 deg of bevel (or fleam) but don't say what rake angle. I've read somewhere that they used up to 45 deg rake on some of their no-set saws, but can't remember where I saw that, & I could have mis-read it. I reckon you could go to 'extremes' like 45 deg rake on a crosscut. Unlike ripsaws, the sides of the teeth of a crosscut are active - they are 'knifing' the fibres, so the greater the fleam, the sharper the knife. Increasing the rake gives you a more shearing cut, so should also be beneficial in some woods.

    As Paul said, sharpening it doesn't pose any extra difficulties compared with any other crosscut - easier perhaps, because you don't need to set it (& note they distinctly tell you to hold the file horizontal, so no slope). However, I suspect you'll eat up a couple of files re-forming the teeth and sharpening it, if it's that much harder than 'normal' for a Disston saw. Odd to me that Disston put 8tpi on a saw of that size, too, I'd be more inclined to use at leat 10, & probably 12, but again, it would be interesting to see how their tooth pattern worked before making any premature judgements.

    Lucky you! I would love to have a 77 to play with, and satisfy some of my curiosities!

    Cheers,
    IW

  14. #13
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    May 2016
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    I'm afraid that I am a bit of a botcher sometimes. Here's another pic of the etch for everyone here.
    14111942_10154030612546185_384311931_n (1).jpg
    I've decided that since I'll keep it, I'm going ahead with the originally intended restoration process. It may affect it's value to a collector, but not to me. I'm sorry if the final product offends people's sensibilities, that's not my intention. I'll post some more photos when I'm done.

  15. #14
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    Zac

    The cleaning or restoration of saws is a contentious issue. However, if you intend it to be a keeper (I would) and a user too, you really can do whatever you want.

    I have large gaps in my material for Disston. See if you can find some Simonds in your travels as I can help a lot better there .

    Here is some information on the 77s. Some you already know about:

    From 1875

    Disston No.77 from 1875.png

    From 1914

    Disston No.77 from 1914 catalogue.png

    Notice the 1875 saw has no reference to the "botchers and mechanics" on the etch. Both saws appear to have the 12ppi teeth at the toe.

    I doubt that your saw has been re-toothed. I think it came like that. Back in those times you were able to ask for special orders without any problems at all.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  16. #15
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    I have the Wenzloff rendition of the Disston 77 in large and medium sizes. The large has the 12/8 toothing and the blade tapers from 0.025" at the toothline, 0.024" 1 cm up from the teeth, 0.023" at 2 cm to 3 cm, 0.022" at 4 cm and 0.021" at the bottom of the back. The smaller saw 12/15 toothing and tapers from 0.025" at the teeth to 0.020" just below the back.

    This is the large saw and the deep reach micrometer used for the measurements. Both saws perform as advertised in hard dry wood.

    Wenzloff 77 large with thickness gauge.JPG
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

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