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Thread: Help - Rationalisation required
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18th July 2008, 09:34 AM #1Senior Member
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Help - Rationalisation required
All,
I (like most/all here) love buying new/old tools. In particular at the moment I'm having a bit of a hand plane "phase" before I move on to chisels.
I was hoping you could help me rationalise and select my next purchase (which will kindly be funded by the ATO).
It will be either:
1) HNT Gordon Trying plane; or
2) HNT Gordon Jointer.
Now, my current "jointer" is an old Stanley/Bailey #6 Fore Plane, which is basically the same length as the Trying plane.
However, I don't do a lot of large-scale work (no doubt I will do some during my lifetime, however), so the longer Jointer may be overkill for my circumstances.
Can I please ask for your views/opinions/experiences on the following:
1) both of the HNT planes named above, and how they go on a variety of size work (I've read Derek's review on the trying plane, but can't find a lot of info about the jointer) - specifically, would the Jointer be more useful simply because it can be used on smaller work as well as larger work, albeit a little cumbersome;
2) whether you can help me "explain" the purchase of a trying plane when it may be pretty similar in function to the #6 I already have;
3) the stability of Terry's planes in the larger sizes, so far as flatness goes.
Cheers all,
sCORCHYes - I'm a lawyer.
No - I won't bill you for reading this.
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18th July 2008 09:34 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th July 2008, 11:01 AM #2
Hi sCORCH,
I'm not sure how much hand jointing you intend to do, so I may be off-centre with my comments, however here are my thoughts for what they are worth.
Terry Gordon's planes are excellent performers especially on wood with difficult grain. They are quality tools made by a man who loves his work, and any of his planes would be an asset.
The HNTG trying plane is a truly versatile handplane, and if you have read Derek's review, you will have some excellent background material.
Here is his website commentary:
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...g%20Plane.html
Its higher blade angle makes it more suited to Australian hardwoods and cranky grained timber than your number 6. The # 6 would be quite at home on straight grained timber or softwoods.
Terry's trying plane also is much longer from the toe to the blade, giving you firm registration on the timber before you start the shaving.
The HNTG jointer is quite long at 27 inches and would be an excellent plane for jointing long boards, but I haven't seen it reviewed and I would guess that it is more rarely purchased than his trying plane. This is because the trying plane is so much more user friendly and can also be used on a shooting board.
Don't get me wrong, if you really want a long jointer then the HNTG is likely one of the best around, but you may find that it sits on your shelf most of the time. On the other hand you will find lots of uses for the trying plane.
You might also want to look at Derek's review of the Veritas Bevel Up Jointer. It's ability to take a variety of bevel angles, and hence cutting angles, by simply changing blades makes it a pretty good workhorse as well.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...20Jointer.html
I'm sure that other forumites will have some comments on this.
Good luck with your ruminating and your purchase.
Regards from Tele Point
SG.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/
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22nd July 2008, 08:16 AM #3Senior Member
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ta
Thanks SG,
I didn't know about (didn't even think about, to be honest...) the toe-to-blade length being different.
The cutting angles is always the big one of course. I can always do a backbevel, but that becomes a pain in the neck after a pretty short period of time.
Thanks again,
sCORCHYes - I'm a lawyer.
No - I won't bill you for reading this.
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23rd July 2008, 05:15 PM #4
I am not sure if this is going to really help since I have not used Terry's jointer plane.
I like the Trying plane a lot. It is an amazing performer for jointing shorter boards (<2'). Beyond that I prefer to use a proper jointer, notably my (woodshop built) 30" long razee, which is somewhat styled on an HNT-type plane.
Here is a picture of the Trying plane alongside my jointer for comparison of lengths (an old picture - before I modified the position of the tote on the jointer) ...
The HNT Gordon Trying Plane and Jointer look pretty much the same in profile. Here is the jointer ...
Here is my jointer. You will note that mine has a tote ..
I have reached the point where I am now seriously thinking of modifying both my HNT Gordon smoother and trying planes by adding a tote to each. This will aid in the comfort of pushing. If this is a factor for you, consider his A55 range.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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23rd July 2008, 05:40 PM #5Senior Member
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ta
Thanks Derek,
It's good to know that the trying plane serves you in good stead. I was interested that Terry recommends it for boards up to around 1.8 metres in length, which seemed quite long to me.
I'm also insanely jealous of how well organised your plane storage facility appears to be.
I've ordered a trying plane, jack plane (old style) and a smoother. I'll test 'em out and probably post a "how do these go for people who suck at planing like me" type review of the experience.
They arrived today, but instead of being at home playing with them, I get to be here at the office, reading through a whole truck load of paperwork...Yes - I'm a lawyer.
No - I won't bill you for reading this.
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23rd July 2008, 05:57 PM #6
sCORCH,
Like both Scribbly and Derek I have no experience of Terry's jointer but do have three of his other planes, the smoother (my first purchase) the jack plane (pre A55) and try plane. I also have the LV BU jack plane with 25 and 50 degree blades, so can speak from a little experience.. I agree with both Scribbly and Derek that HNT planes are superb. One function I use reasonably often is the scraper action, reversing the blade. While not being able to comment on the jointer, I have not found a need for it as the try plane has enough span to cope with most work when coupled with a good straight edge and care.
Unlike Derek, I prefer the cross handles. It means the thrust of hand action in planing is across the line of the blade so there is no fore and aft rocking as can be the case with a normal plane.
Also, when edge jointing, the fact that your hands are positioned either side of the plane body makes it easier to maintain a flatness rather than the tight wire act that is necessary when balancing a normal plane action where the thrust is along the line of the plane. However, as with all things personal preference is just that -- personal. I know Terry is moving away from the cross handle but I think the change is based on market demands rather than design. The Chinese have been happily using them for a very long time.
JerryEvery person takes the limit of their own vision for the limits of the world.
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24th July 2008, 08:31 AM #7Senior Member
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Thanks Jerry,
Good to have the positive feedback reinforced.
I'll let y'all know how I get on with the new acquisitions once I've had a better opportunity to put them through their paces.
sCORCHYes - I'm a lawyer.
No - I won't bill you for reading this.
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29th July 2008, 07:26 PM #8Senior Member
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- Apr 2007
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- Blakehurst
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Hey Scorch, I'm an Accountant. Come over to Carlton and I'll make sure the ATO pays for both. (You don't think they read this do you?) Legally of course.
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