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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    4

    Default Help - Restoring Old Wooden Hand Planes

    Hi,
    I have just discovered that my dad has been secretly hording about 20 old (his grandfather's) wooden hand planes (rebates, moulding, beading etc).
    I would like to restore then to be usable - the wood is very dry and the blades obviously need some attention.
    I have no idea where to start (however I will probably get the blades done professionally).

    Any advice on cleaning up these planes..??

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5,014

    Default

    I'm pretty sure that Derek Cohen has answred this very question recently. A search should turn up the info you seek. Otherwise, Derek might answer you himself next time he's on the board

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,860

    Default

    Nix

    What a lucky dog you are! I am very envious of those that have had tools handed down to them by family, especially fathers and grandfathers. No one in my family was into woodwork. My father was a boy scout and all DIY at home was completed with the aid of string!!

    Anyway, the first thing you want to do is clean the wood without destroying the patina. Please don't be tempted to sand or varnish the wood!!!!!!

    Here is the recipe given to me several months ago when I purchased an H & R
    half-set. The owner had used it on the planes, and also demonstrated using
    it on a few other pieces lying around. It seemed to work very well without
    destroying the patina.

    200ml Turps
    100ml Meth
    150ml Vinegar
    25 ml mild detergent
    10ml Ammonia (5% solution)
    25ml Brasso

    Once you have cleaned them, the next thing to do is feed the timber. I'd prefer to oil and wax them.

    Since you have not mentioned bench planes, I assume these are not on your list. If they were you'd probably have to repair mouths.

    Irons will need to be lapped on their backs until flat. Any pits will prevent you getting a sharp edge. Stubborn rust can be removed with electrolysis. The contours of the blades can be sharpened with either sandpaper wrapped around dowels, or Japanese slipstones. You can do all this without professional help. It is not rocket science. Yell out if you want advice.

    An absolutely necessary book is Restoring, Tuning & Using Classic Woodworking Tools by Michael Dunbar.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek Cohen

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