Thread: HNT Gordon Plane 2 Thumbs Up

Hi Steve,
I'm glad you got it working for you and I can assure you that many of us from all over the World rely on, and enjoy, our HNT planes of all types. My 'old' HNT smoother now sits folorny on the shelf watching me use the newer A55 HNT smoother but your post has encouraged me to get it down and use it again just so that it doesn't feel ignored.
My HNT jack plane is also an absolute joy to use and my 1/4" dado plane was even given a workout today as I started a new project. Enjoy the company of new friend!
fletty

Did you use the blade setting block Steve?

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Did you use the blade setting block Steve?

Not exactly, more the Bench top and a piece of paper.


Cheers

Steve

FenceFurniture:
Did you use the blade setting block Steve?

Originally Posted by fineboxes

Not exactly, more the Bench top and a piece of paper.

Steve, that is why you have struggled to set up your plane!

I go a step further. I use a glass plate for setting up adjusterless planes ...



My plane setting plate is a sheet of 10mm glass epoxied to flat hardwood. I have used a flat hardwood block, as recommended by Terry Gordon (HNT Gordon planes). This works almost as well.

I suspect that some will be concerned that the hard glass may damage the edge of a blade. But it does not do so. This may be due to the smoothness of the glass. However it is the unyielding nature of the glass that is the very reason for its choice.

When setting up a plane, the blade must not be permitted to project beyond the mouth.

It is much easier to adjust the blade outward, that is, increase projection, than to retract the plane blade. One increases projection by tapping on the back edge of the blade with a hammer. One retracts the blade by tapping on the rear of the plane body with the hammer. Tapping on the nose of the plane (often a plane will have a button placed on the nose for this purpose) will also extend the blade's projection.

The problem encountered with retracting a blade by the above method is that you will loosen the wedge as well, and this comes with the danger that the blade loses its position. On the other hand, when increasing projection, the wedge remains firm, holding the blade in position.

Procedure with HNT Gordon Smoother ...

1. Place plane on glass setting plate.

2. Insert blade and hold it flat against the glass. Because of the cheek design, the blade is loose and will slide down and into the mouth. This must be held in place to avoid the extra, unwanted projection.

3. Insert wedge and continue to ensure that the blade is still flat against the glass.

4. Firm up the wedge.

5. At this point the plane should be set up to take fine shavings.



Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for the heads up Derek - I'm pondering the purchase of my first HNT plane (a 1" shoulder plane), and its only concerns about setting the blade that have made me hold back.

Derek,
When I tap the front of my planes the cutter advances. It's a very good forward micro adjustment.

You must be using it Japanese style Bill - on the pull stroke

You can't expect two opposite forces to produce the same result. Try it.

Thanks for that Derek, If I have trouble in the future I'll try a piece of glass and see how I go.
What thickness of glass would you recommend the thin stuff, 10mm plate or would a ceramic tile do the same job?


Cheers

Steve

Steve

I have several of Terry's planes, the first one I bought about the time he started his business and it is still going strong. Terry is very proficient & would suggest you simply follow his instructions, I do and it works, if that is not working for you have a chat with Terry.

I recently bought Terry's small spokeshave this one - Prod Small Curved Spoke Shave this is a tool that requires sensitivity in its use, but is absolutely brilliant for those last few finishing cuts. It is really designed for tight concave curves, but I find it useful for finishing flat concave or convex.

Regards

Originally Posted by Ball Peen

Derek,
When I tap the front of my planes the cutter advances. It's a very good forward micro adjustment.

Hi Bill

That is a recognised way of advancing a blade - the reason why there is a hardwood striking piece on the toe of a plane. I prefer to tap the blade as this is less likely to injure the plane body and more direct.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,
With respect, your instructions advise striking either end will retract the cutter. Not the case. Maybe too much typing late at night.

Originally Posted by Ball Peen

Hi Derek,
With respect, your instructions advise striking either end will retract the cutter. Not the case. Maybe too much typing late at night.

Bill, you're correct. I have changed the comment. Thanks.

Regards from Perth

Derek