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19th March 2020, 11:19 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Hollow grind or flat bevel for plane blade
Hello, I am hoping to get a new 2" wide Veritas PM-V11 blade with the Govt handout when it comes - got to keep the economy moving
I normally set my plane blades at 30 degrees. What is the best grind for this sort of blade - hollow grind off a wet wheel, or a flat grind with a Veritas Mk2 honing guide on a flat waterstone?regards,
Dengy
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19th March 2020 11:19 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th March 2020, 12:00 AM #2
Either, take your pick! If your wet grinder is 10” then I would definitely go with the hollow grind, but only because it takes much less physical work than flat abrasives.
I stick with the traditional flat bevel using the same Veritas jig, 25 degree primary and a 30 degree secondary; when the secondary gets to about 1/3 of the total edge then I work on the primary again. The secondary only sees my finest sharpening mediums so keeping it as small as possible means touching up an edge is done quickly.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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20th March 2020, 12:14 AM #3
BU or BD?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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20th March 2020, 06:46 AM #4Novice
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I hollow grind then sharpen with the honing guide. That way there is less material to remove with thee water stones.
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20th March 2020, 10:04 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Bevel down, Derek.. Just an ordinary old Stanley #4 plane
regards,
Dengy
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20th March 2020, 11:14 AM #6
For BD plane blades, I hollow grind at about 25 deg and then hone at a couple of degrees more.
Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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20th March 2020, 01:11 PM #7
Okay then. With BD plane blades and bench chisels (with the exception of Japanese chisels), I hollow grind all at 30 degrees. The purpose of hollow grinding is to reduce the amount of steel that will then be abraded on waterstones. Harder and more abrasion-resistant steels, such as PM-V11, A2, and M2/M4, benefit this way. The reason I choose 30 degrees is that this is a good compromise for most steels for a cutting edge, and I then hone directly on the hollow. The hollow acts as a jig to balance the bevel. This results in what I call a "co-planar micro bevel". It is not a secondary bevel (which, by definition, is a higher angle than the primary bevel). Honing speed is one other benefit. Reproducibility of the bevel angle is another.
The benefit of a honing guide is reproducibility. Reproducibility is the key to speedy sharpening - one does not want to be starting again each time. The honing guide excels in creating a secondary bevel at a specific angle each time (there are jigs to set the angle reliably), and it makes absolutely no difference whether this is on a flat or a hollowed primary bevel.
The aim of all honing on the tougher steels should be to create a micro bevel. In the case of a honing guide, the aim is a secondary micro bevel. I use honing guides for BU plane blades, since the angle of the secondary bevel determines the cutting angle, and the cutting angle is a crucial weapon in controlling tear out with a single iron (no chipbreaker) plane. In the case of BU blades, I continue to hollow grind, but only because this is what I have for grinding. I used to use a belt sander, which created a flat primary bevel, and that was no different. With secondary micro bevels, the amount of steel you remove from a flat- and hollowed primary bevel is the same.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...gStrategy.html
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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