Thread: Infill Block Plane Restoration

Ron Hock makes custom blades just ask him.

Hi Pat

I really doubt that the holes are for a "bar". They are more likely for a lever cap ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, I agree, but I am working with what I have atm.

Incidentally Pat, it may or may not help, but I did a restoration, here: Renovating an Infill Smoother

What is the width of the blade? Desired thickness? What are the dimensions of the plane?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by Pat

I had some nails that are 3mm diameter and the right length, but my efforts to peen the point failed, bending the bar.
So anyone have any suggestions for the bar?

In general nails are too soft for that application.
In the very short term the right diameter drill bit will get you out of trouble -- longer term you should try and source a piece of what I believe is called drill steel

or ask the metalworks forum if someone can turn a piece of mild steel to the correct diameter.

Be wary, the "pin" holes are potentially tapered -- smaller on the inside compared to the outside

Looks like the verniers are going to get off the turning bench and away from the Yellow Peril and wander over to the flatwork bench.

A project for later on in the day.

Thanks gents, I'll have some answers and more than likely more questions later.

BTW
What I think you have is an infill coffin smoother rather than a block plane.
Possibly part of a kit. https://www.spaceageplane.com/shop-1

Derek & Ian, I hope the following pics will help.

Dimensions 125mm x 50mm
Infill 09 low res.jpg

The holes are 3mm straight.Infill 10 low res.jpg

Ian, could be, I'll flick them an email with some pics to see if they can identify it as one of their own.

Thanks for your help, gents.

I agree with Ian. That is a small smoother.

Pat, to measure the width of the blade, you need to place the rules inside the body. Measure imperial as this is what would be original. The ideal blade will be a tightish fit, with about 1/16" maximum leeway for wiggle.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Also, the plane might be designed for use with a double iron.
The recess in the bed might be there to accommodate the head of the screw holding the two irons together.

Pat, I agree with Derek & Ian, that you've got a small rear-bun smoother there. From the front-on pic., I'm pretty sure it has a dovetailed, not cast, carcase. The inner angle between sides & sole is a sharp 90 degrees and there is a gap between side & sole at the right side of the toe (left side looking at pic.). The fit of the stuffing is also very good, so based on all that, my guess is it was factory-made, not a 'kit' job. There are sanding marks on the front bun, so someone has assiduously removed any maker's mark that may have been there (to remove a previous owner's mark, p'raps?).

It's possible it's a very early plane and had a wedge retained by a pin, as early Spiers planes did, but most makers used lever caps, which are far more convenient (& elegant!), imo.

It's not that difficult to make a pretty convincing lever cap from scratch. I made a cap for an old casting I picked up last year - look here. You start with a bit of 1/2" brass flat and it can all be done with a jeweller's saw & a couple of files. I have a small metal lathe & was able to make a knurled thumbscrew, but Derek has shown a neat way to make a rather nice thumbscrew using some threaded brass rod & bits of a hose-fitting (can't find it on a quick search - Derek, where is it??).

I recommend making a mock-up of the lever cap in wood, bfore you commit to hacking up your chunk of brass. This is to get the shape right & make sure it allows the blade to fit hrough with adequate clearance. Coffin bodies can be a bit tricky because the width varies over the throat area, & your cap may need to be rounded a bit at the sides so it can pivot enough to get blades in & out (as I had to do with mine). The hole in the bed suggests the original blade had a cap-iron, which would be a good thing to have on what looks to be a standard-pitch plane, if you can organise it.

A lot of caps are rivetted in place (Norris caps certainly are), but I prefer using a couple of 5mm (or thereabouts) screws - rivetting seems a bit too final for me, as sure as heck I'd find out I should've done something else first, 5 seconds after I'd finished peening the rivets! If screws are good enough for Mr. Holtey, I reckon they're good enough for me...

Good luck, keep us updated as you go & we'll cheer you on & offer lots of gratuitous advice..

Cheers,

Answers to Derek's requests.

Mouth width 43mm (1 11/16")
Infill 12 low res.jpg
Mouth thickness 5mm (13/64)
Infill 14 low res.jpg Infill 15 low res.jpg
Blade width 41mm (1 39/64")
Infill 16 low res.jpg

Ian, I cannot see any maker's mark on the front.Infill 11 low res.jpg

Pat

Not sure if you are still looking for a pin. If so, you might like to consider a masonry nail. Hard and strong but not so brittle as an old twist bit. They can be purchased in small quantities.

Regards
Paul

Please forget about using a pin. If you wish to restore the plane, then return it to original specs, which would be a lever cap. If you cannot do so, then let someone else rebuild the plane, or help you do so.

It does not require much expertise to build a lever cap and screw. Here is a link to the article I wrote many years ago (which Ian mentioned): MAKING LEVER CAPS AND LEVER CAP SCREWS IN THE BACKYARD

Regards from Perth

Derek