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Thread: Infill plane

  1. #1
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    Default Infill plane

    I have started making a dovetail plane. Instead of a full size, I started with a No3. Thanks go to the forum members who have posted some very good and informative infomation about how to make and what to make it from. I have also used a lot ideas from Peter Mcbride's site. Here are the photos of the plane so far.

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  3. #2
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    Default Very nice!

    Looks like it will be a beauty! What iron and cap are you using?

  4. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gezawa View Post
    I have started making a dovetail plane. Instead of a full size, I started with a No3. Thanks go to the forum members who have posted some very good and informative infomation about how to make and what to make it from. I have also used a lot ideas from Peter Mcbride's site. Here are the photos of the plane so far.
    Gezawa,
    Great to see another dovetailed infill plane maker giving it a try!
    Very happy you found my web page helpful.
    Any more pictures of the making process, and solutions to problems you encountered?

    Regards,
    Peter

  5. #4
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    Default

    Thanks for the comments Tink and Peter. I was not ablet take photos as the other 5 have the camera, may need to buy one for the shed.
    Peter I was wondering what jewelers saw and blades that would be suitable for cutting out the dovetails.
    Also found the brass I have worked hardened quickly tryed heating but I dont have anything that can heat it up with.
    I still have to make a lever cap srew, not sure if it will look as good as the ones Peter makes, they are cool.
    Thanks for the comments.
    Cheers Gerry

  6. #5
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    Default

    I hope you blokes realise the problems you're setting for the collectors of the future. A genuine Gezawa should get a fair bit at auction!
    Good to see.
    Cheers,
    Jim

  7. #6
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    Hi Gerry

    I have been researching infill planes at the moment, spent last night drawing a shoulder plane concept.

    I hope to spend next year learning how to make them. So your post and progress is pertinent to me at this time.

    How thick are the sides? it looks much thicker then what I have seen on older style infills.

    Keep it coming.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Hi Gezawa,

    Looking good, I can't wait to see it finished, what timber are you planning on for the infill?

    Regards
    Ray

  9. #8
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    Default

    Excellent work -

  10. #9
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    Default

    Very nice! So far so very good indeed.

  11. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gezawa View Post
    Thanks for the comments Tink and Peter. I was not ablet take photos as the other 5 have the camera, may need to buy one for the shed.
    Peter I was wondering what jewelers saw and blades that would be suitable for cutting out the dovetails.
    Also found the brass I have worked hardened quickly tryed heating but I dont have anything that can heat it up with.
    I still have to make a lever cap srew, not sure if it will look as good as the ones Peter makes, they are cool.
    Thanks for the comments.
    Cheers Gerry
    Gerry,
    the choice of brass stock is critical to successful piening.
    I use 260 cartridge brass. It has cold working properties listed as excellent, whereas other stuff like 360 & 380 brass are listed as poor....something you may have discovered yourself
    Was hoping the lever screw was a temp fix to make it work for a road test
    There are a couple of work-around solutions to knobs...one I used years ago was the knurled brass hose fitting, the one that screws onto the hose to fix it to the connector.
    With a suitable bolt in the chuck of a drill, round down the hex head to just slide into the brass, and solder it in leaving enough space at the top for a matching infill of the same wood as the infill in the plane. Somewhere on Derek's site there are some instructions for that I think....Derek??

    I use Vallorbe saw blades, #1, #0 or #2/0 for cutting out the waste brass, but i usually make the sides 3mm thick. Only on one plane were they thicker, and that was a bit of a chore to cut with the saw.
    The saw frames I use are German made, come from jeweller's supply houses, and cost about $30 each. However the ones I see at bunnings look ok to me. A 45 degree twist at each end of the blade allows the frame to pass over the top.

    Regards,
    Peter

  12. #11
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    Default

    I love it as well, can not wait to see the finished product.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Nicely done, so far, Gezawa, - making shavings even before the stuffing's in!

    And you are much smarter than I was - you chose a parallel-sided design - I was overly ambitious & went for a coffin shape for my first full-size attempt. It's languished for many months at the infilling stage, but I have holidays coming up ina few weeks, so it might get finished before next Christmas.

    (might! )

    Cheers
    IW

  14. #13
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    Feb 2009
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    Esperance,Western Australia
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    192

    Default Infill plane

    Thanks for the comments, plane making is addictive and some what affectious.

    Tink the plane blade and chip breaker are both from Ron hock bought through Proffesional Wood supplies some time ago. May need to change the chipbreaker as the levercap screw and chipbreaker screw sit on top of each other,not good.

    Helmut, saw your thread earlier and is looking good and you are far better with your drawings. I made some MDF templates so I could work out angles and size this helped me a lot when it came to cutting out. Will post photos later.

    Thanks peter for the info on saws and yes cutting 6mm is hard but fun I Think! I continue to study the planes you have made and your info. I am looking at the way you solder[much to learn]

    IW, the coffin style plane you made looks great, I am a fan but thought that I would work up to that and maybe a jointer later.
    Thanks again for the comments.
    Cheers Gerry

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