Thread: My Infill Plane

Go for it MA! I'm certainly not the 'expert' you're seeking but I tend to use dividers for marking lines parallel to an edge. I also have an old metal marking gauge (Eclipse??) that I use when the distance is greater.

The proper metalworking tool for this task are “odd-leg” or “jenny” calipers; HERE is a fairly cheap set on Amazon.

You can use a regular marking gauge, but I would get a Odd Leg, like Chief suggested,another chance too buy another tool, or you can use a cheap set of verniers too, but don’t use an expensive set[emoji849].

Or even just a metal scribe an steel ruler will work.

But keep the lines how ever you mark them sharp an clear.

Have you spoken too the Family about this new “Hobby” yet.

Cheers Matt.

MA, I like this cheap Silex type when ever I'm doing general metal marking out work. The metal fence rides rough or fine steel edges
Vintage Silex Tools Dual Marking Out Gauge, No.93. tools, workshop, garage | eBay


On my recent plane build I have been using my Mitutoyo dial caliper.

Just a moment...

The fine points are not going to last using that though.

The capacity to be able to work off one straight edge and just dial in numbers like a side thickness is what keeps me using it.

Wood or brass fences are not much good marking off steel edges long term but you could get by just fine for one plane by checking the edges are nice and smooth first.

If you really want to go to town use this sort of thing off a machined metal surface. Or even better, a surface plate.

LARGE ENGINEERS UNIVERSAL SCRIBING BLOCK / SURFACE GAUGE SCRIBER 12" | eBay

They come in small sizes too. And there are vintage basic versions you can get as well.
I use one of those setting blades in the heads of my spindle moulder.

One sort of like this. Ornate Acorn Surface Gauge *SOLD*

Rob

I have one of those odd leg dividers. Found it in a discount bin at TT. Thought it might come in handy one day! Thanks for the reminder all. I have often thought those Silex marking gauges could be useful too.

MA, some folks seem to be able to use dividers as marking gauges very successfully, but whenever I tried it, I always ended up with wobbly lines, so in frustration I made myself a small metal-marking gauge. The fence is brass, the beam is a bolt with a flat filed on it & the pin is the remnant of a broken 1/16" drill bit. It's about as crude as it can be, so much so I don't even have a picture of it, but it works very well.

Something that really helps with metalwork imo is layout dye - not cheap but the smallest quantity you can buy is several lifetime's worth for your average amateur. Even very light lines stand out beautifully against the dye.

Rob has a bit to answer for - after he started his thread on making a mitre plane, I got all enthusiastic & made a couple more planes too!


Cheers,

Progress (in small steps). See below

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A little more work done (I am waiting for a roofing order to arrive, now due tomorrow)

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MA Little steps, are good don’t be in a rush,

Would you like us too see if we can delay the Roofing order another day or two ?

Cheers Matt:

Well, they could only promise me an A.M. delivery, so I won't be starting first thing...

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More progress. Following IanW's booklet closely. Hopefully I will get a chance to do more tomorrow. Glad my workshop is under the house, rather than a tin shed in the garden, when temperature climbs above 30°

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Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

.... Following IanW's booklet closely.

...

Not quite MA.

By the layout lines, it looks like you've made the mouth the full width of the internal sole. I advise having the mouth a bit narrower, with at least a mm between the edge & the body wall so you have some room for lateral adjustment.

It's not a major problem, you just use a narrower blade, but I prefer the blade to be fairly snug across the mouth, it keeps that end steadier when you move the upper end left or right. Perhaps a better alternative is to taper the sides of the blade to allow room for adjustment.

Or, you could be so super-precise with your grinding & sharpening you don't need any lateral adjustment....

Cheers,
Ian

Hi Ian. The mouth is slightly larger than the blade, and I am planning on the sides being flush with the mouth opening. I have about 1 mm on either side. Do you think this will be too tight? For reference, the wooden 15° block is coincidentally the width of the blade.

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Morning, MA. Sorry, I was well a-bed by the time your post was made, I'm pretty useless by 9 PM these days...

OK, I mis-read the picture (a habit of mine!), it looks like the mouth is cut right on those side-lines. A mm clearance between the blade & each side is my minimum allowance as a rule. Even that is a bit tight for a low-angle plane because of the aforesaid lateral adjustment considerations.

By the same token, take your time over filing that blade bevel flat & square to the sole. It's easy to get a tiny skew in it, like I did on the oddball mitre plane I made a couple of months ago. The front of the mouth is square to the sides, but it looks crooked because of the skewed bed. The skew isn't much, but as I keep sayin', it doesn't take much error to skew a low-angle bed: b mouth.jpg

If only I'd taken my own advice & checked more thoroughly before assembling it!

With the blade ground square, it has to be pushed hard against one side to get an even cut. The mouth is just about right for a mitre plane on the 'narrow' side, but too wide for my likings on the other.

The plane works well on not-too-demanding woods & has a sweet action: a clean shavings.jpg

... but I'm annoyed with myself every time I see that crooked grin....

I really don't know what to do with it, tbh, so atm it's sitting in a dark corner of my toolbox waiting for a decision on its fate.
d.jpg

Cheers,