Thread: Insufficient bench planes ;)

Are you going to drop them both in the mine shaft?

Two men. One plane each. A single piece of wood. Its ... Plane Off Time!!

There will be tear out, blades and a proposal ... Oh wrong show.

One man will walk away with the ultimate prize! (Don't ask me, I didn't write the show.)

How can you have the same piece of wood for both?
I know, divide a piece in half with a line, then slice it cross ways into 6 mm bits and alternate the pieces from either half. So slice one from each half stays in the same place, slice two gets swapped with slice two on the other half, three stays and I'm sure you get it. Then glue. Then rip it into 6 mm slices and repeat ...

Anyway I was going to ask a question but I got carried away so I'll have to get back to you.

Oh yeah. So as some one new to the chip breaker experience I learnt a lot from this thread and wanted to quickly check my understanding. A lower cutting angle gives a better surface because you get fewer end grain bits visible on the surface? Higher means the blade is cutting across the surface more rather than lifting the fibres up before it cuts? So there's less chance of tear out because if there is a break there's less wood behind it to break off as well? The chip iron dos a similar thing by breaking the shaving so there is less wood behind it? And: The point D.W. makes about the disadvantages of not learning to use the cap breaker makes sense to me but do you guys think it can go the other way? As someone new to it I think I'm relying on setting the cap close to make consistent shavings. You all can get uniform shavings without it presumably and I think I should spend time learning to do that - what do you think? And apologies - I'm embracing my ADHD atm.

For those that may have forgotten that final post that Peter McBride wrote on this forum site;

Bevan,

I come back to this forum occasionally, recently because a friend alerted me to Ian's plane making. however my last post was back in August, and before that back in June.
There are some folk here who I respect, and admire. But I find reading this particular page so distasteful, and I'm so disgusted, its the reason reason I won't come back again.
Those less than genuine posts, pretending interest, what a sham! Those two should hang their heads in shame. THEY KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THEY ARE DOING.

If they say they are here for the chance to look and learn, its arrant nonsense.... once again is just disingenuous behaviour, predicable as it is disgusting.

When they sit with their loved ones and friends, I wonder if they would would like them to know what they are deliberately, and maliciously trying to do to Steweie.

It's obvious to me that those two seem to have got some kind of star status that gives them immunity from responsibility for this objectionable behaviour.
I'm surprise anyone of good grace would have anything to do with them, or ask them to cool it, or relax, when the proper thing is expulsion.
Good people I know are gone from here, tired of what it has become.
Now, me too.
By,
Peter

H&R moulding plane irons.

I thought this thread was getting back on track, but I see it is in danger of degenerating again. Alright, here's a bit of a spray from under my moderator's hat.

For starters, can we not have a sensible discussion backed up with reasons and not start name-calling & slanging matches over imagined slights? When olive branches are offered, it's a chance to calm down & discuss the situation, not something to whack the offerer over the head with. I like 'robust debate', but the most convincing way to respond to anything you disagree with is to state, politely, with reasons, why you do so. Lay out your arguments as logically as you can & let the audience decide - sometimes they get it 'right' (i.e., agree with you) sometimes they won't, but that's life. Leaving in a huff is not a very successful debating technique.

Planes, saws, & sharpening media seem to provoke so much unnecessary passion. Everyone's situation is different, so there are no absolutes, and many ways to get the jobs done, with or without cap-irons, sloped gullets, stick-on abrasives or whatever tickles your tummy. No-one has the perfect answers for everyone & every situation. The vast majority of us here play with wood & hand-tools for the love of it, so it really doesn't matter if the way we go about some particular operation is the most efficient way or not. If how you do something works to your satisfaction, and you see no need to change, there is no good reason to do so. On the other hand, it's always just possible you can pick up a bit of useful information from the most unlikely sources.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

I thought this thread was getting back on track, but I see it is in danger of degenerating again. Alright, here's a bit of a spray from under my moderator's hat.

For starters, can we not have a sensible discussion backed up with reasons and not start name-calling & slanging matches over imagined slights? When olive branches are offered, it's a chance to calm down & discuss the situation, not something to whack the offerer over the head with. I like 'robust debate', but the most convincing way to respond to anything you disagree with is to state, politely, with reasons, why you do so. Lay out your arguments as logically as you can & let the audience decide - sometimes they get it 'right' (i.e., agree with you) sometimes they won't, but that's life. Leaving in a huff is not a very successful debating technique.

Planes, saws, & sharpening media seem to provoke so much unnecessary passion. Everyone's situation is different, so there are no absolutes, and many ways to get the jobs done, with or without cap-irons, sloped gullets, stick-on abrasives or whatever tickles your tummy. No-one has the perfect answers for everyone & every situation. The vast majority of us here play with wood & hand-tools for the love of it, so it really doesn't matter if the way we go about some particular operation is the most efficient way or not. If how you do something works to your satisfaction, and you see no need to change, there is no good reason to do so. On the other hand, it's always just possible you can pick up a bit of useful information from the most unlikely sources.

Cheers,

Perfectly put Ian,

Cheers Matt

I suggest an apt saying for many posts on this thread is " Put Brain in gear before posting "

Please, lets all follow Ian's advice

Regards

Better still; if your a member of this forum, and your still using bench planes above common angle, keep that information to yourself.

..._

agree

Originally Posted by planemaker

Better still; if your a member of this forum, and your still using bench planes above common angle, keep that information to yourself.

Get back on your meds and go out to your shed and do something useful
before I explode and eliminate someone.....

Here's a distraction; photos during weekend woodworking on my shave horse.

20180324_093233.jpg

20180325_182451.jpg

20180324_145237.jpg

Hopefully the shavings and hand planes of various angles and denominations can help achieve calm . Not enough pictures in this thread is probably annoying everyone.

Back on-topic. I played around with the 10 1/4 and really love it. I compared the specs against a 5 1/4 and it looks like it's the same overall width but with a 3/8" wider blade and 1" longer at 12 3/4". The weight is 1/2 pound more than a 5 1/4 and 1/2lb less than a #5 which is also 1 1/4" longer at 14" but with a narrower blade of 2". I could therefore see myself really liking both the #5 1/4 or the #5. The major disadvantage to the 10 1/4 is that you wouldn't want to run camber on the blade as it would lose it's utility as a rebate plane - though with the cap-iron doesn't necessarily need a tight mouth for effective smoothing. I really like the feel of the plane in hand though and it works wonderfully. Hence I can see a #5 or #5 1/4 in my future for sure. 5 1/2 might feel a little chunkier than I'd like - but you never know. I'm thinking I'll likely end up with the #8 (still on order), a #5, #4 and #3 and probably add a #6 in at some stage - so basically all of them haha 😂 - why even lie to myself.

Cheers, Dom

I can see a #5 or #5 1/4 in my future for sure. #5 1/2 might feel a little chunkier than I'd like - but you never know. I'm thinking I'll likely end up with the #8 (still on order), a #5, #4 and #3 and probably add a #6 in at some stage

Dom

If you want a complete set, that is entirely up to you. The only person you need to defend yourself to is the fiance -- and if you've chosen well that won't be an issue.


That said, my own accumulation includes: #4, #4-1/2, #5, #6, #164 (low angle smoother), #62 (low angle jack).
Which is the most useful ofttimes depends on which has the sharpest blade
I don't use the #164 or #62 as often as I might, but in part that is personal ergonomics -- I really like being able to rest my index finger on the blade of a BD plane, and really miss the "finger rest" when using the #62 and #164.


personally, I think the #5-1/2 and #6 are alternatives rather than part of a progression. If anything the #5-1/2 is a super smoother.

a bit like you, the LN #3 in bronze (and the #2) tug at my heart strings. A tug I have so far resisted, just.


enjoy using your tools -- and damn the torpedos