Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 34
Thread: Iron vs timber hand planes?
-
1st December 2012, 09:26 AM #16
Well, I won't be one of those saying "I told you so" 'cos I'm not trying to tell you anything. I don't know the answers myself - just thinking out loud about the potential pitfalls.
I'm just not sure how far you can push a wooden bed, & it's quite likely to be further than my cautious nature thinks. It looks like the bed in the Bill Carter plane is about 25 degrees, give or take, which is what I feel is getting to the limits of what wood could be expected to manage, but I certainly don't know that without trying. With Derek's 25/25 approach to blade sharpening, that's a cutting angle of 50 degrees, 5 higher than a Bailey, & that's why I was rabbiting on about being clear about what it is you are aiming for - full blade support or cutting angle.
Another aspect that must have a big bearing on function is blade thicknes - a thicker blade should flex less & therefore require less support with a BU configuration. I'm all for the 'suck it & see' approach (well, sometimes!) so will wait patiently & quite happily while you to do all the hard work....
Cheers,IW
-
1st December 2012 09:26 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
1st January 2013, 01:17 AM #17
Blog: Wooden Mitre Planes - John Green c. 1800
Joel's Blog at Tools for Working Wood - Wooden Mitre Planes - John Green c. 1800
-
1st January 2013, 06:15 AM #18
Well spotted Paul, but Joel in his blog does point out that although these low-angle BU planes in wood have existed they are rare.
I guess that supports Derek and Ian's asssertions that such wooden planes do face technical contstraints and are probably not sufficiently robust to use carelessly.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
-
1st January 2013, 08:41 AM #19
Anything low angle I have is steel. That's because we just bought what the tradsmen used and didn't think about it much. Only recently have I had the chance to use the Veritas DX60. I have to get one!! Even a chimp could do fine work with one of these. ( I have a very close relation that is a damn fine chimp ) I had it for 6 weeks, it was hell going back to my Stanley.
Cheers, Bill
-
1st January 2013, 09:09 AM #20
Hmmm - looks like I should have fudged my original post more than I did - there is nothing new under the sun, & I ought to know that well enough by now!
As a slight saving grace, the blogger does agree with what I think:
"There is a fundamental problem with bevel up wooden planes which is that the wood under the iron that forms the bed is very thin and can easily wear, break off, or bulge with wedge pressure ruining the accuracy of the plane...."
and ".... The planes today are very rare and certainly as a design they reflected a dead end."
While Philly is making modern versions , note that he has opted for a much higher bed angle (looks like at least 35 degrees, or more) than the 20 degrees of the old wooden mitre. Which brings me back to my theory that the really important feature of these tools is a hefty blade carefully fitted to a solid base.
So there's only one way to find out what the limitations of a wooden body are - someone has to make a few low angle woodies from diferent woods & put them to a bit of vigorous testing......
Cheers (& may 2013 bring you all lots of wood in some form or other ),IW
-
1st January 2013, 09:45 AM #21
I think you just found your next project Ian.
Jack Nicholson, in " The Bucket List " said ".....never let good wood go to waste " or something like that.Cheers, Bill
-
1st January 2013, 10:18 AM #22
Iron vs timber hand planes?
Sorry chaps, I've been on the road and haven't been able to start experimenting. I've found a likely blade online and just have to wait for it to arrive.
I'm happy to see someone else blaze a trail though.
Thanks John and Paul for posting those links, very interesting.
Happy New Year
Matt...I'll just make the other bits smaller.
-
1st January 2013, 01:26 PM #23
-
1st January 2013, 01:27 PM #24
-
1st January 2013, 01:28 PM #25
I wasn't contradicting you Ian - reinforcing if anything - just trying to add to the story.
Is it Joel's article or elsewhere that I read that the metal low-angle planes came along first, and then the wooden versions as the affordable K-mart versions? Massive price difference that he notes there!
(I've been looking at the 1912/18 Disston catalogues ... #12 = $20, D23=D100=$18, #7=$10, Jackson = $5 ... if I lived back then I might never have owned a really nice saw!)
I went out to look at the neglected japanese planes I have. I got one long one early on and spent a lot of time with it in the beginning ... then got some more quite cheaply and have never yet really made it back to them. I was thinking they were bedded at a lower angle than they actually are ... about 45o I'd say without measuring.
BUT ... it occurred to me that the japanese way of shaping the sole with the two or three landing areas might be partly related to helping the longevity of the lower end of the bed - even at 45o - and that it might help in some way towards creating a low-angle woodie ... although I'm not sure how the pushing vs pulling usage would effect this.
Cheers,
Paul.
-
1st January 2013, 05:03 PM #26
-
1st January 2013, 05:46 PM #27
Ball Peen
I'm with Vann on this . I wasn't familiar with the Veritas DX60 plane and had to look it up.
Wow! That is one sexy looking animal. I'd have to hold that very carefully if I wasn't going to attract some scathing looks.
IanW
How close do you think you can get to that in wood? Bulked up a bit perhaps? I think it would have to be physically larger and not quite such an extreme angle. I'm excited .
Olas! Olas! Where's Olas?
Have a gander at what you've started. One simple, unassuming, little question and look where it's going. Forumites are leaving their workbenches in droves, fumbling with their calculators, researching the web for precedence, mentally sharpening the design cavities of the brain and signing up for mission impossible in a frenzy not seen since the Great War.
I love it . Let 2013 commence .
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
-
1st January 2013, 08:42 PM #28
Paul,
I have been hearing about the DX60 for awhile on different forums. I thought it was just hype, how good can be? No owner work to do, just sharpen and do fine work. The grub screws either side of the cutter keep the cutting edge paraell to the mouth. I have also been hearing about the new gen. spokeshaves as well. I dragged the chain because I haven't bought handtools in years. I think the NX60 is essentially the same tool.Cheers, Bill
-
6th January 2013, 01:17 PM #29
-
6th January 2013, 04:18 PM #30
Hi Bill
I completed as review of these block planes, which includes a comparison with a few others ...
Back to Tool Reviews
Regards from Ottawa
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
Similar Threads
-
How do I Sharpen a cap iron on a hand plane, 'Stanley' if that helps
By ApprenticeBenny in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 7Last Post: 2nd November 2010, 05:17 PM -
Hand planes
By Gezawa in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 0Last Post: 22nd February 2009, 12:04 PM -
Planes back to bare cast and chromed cap iron
By Bodgy in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 10Last Post: 3rd April 2006, 09:24 AM -
Thank you for the hand planes
By Suresh in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 3Last Post: 14th September 2004, 01:36 PM -
Hand planes
By John Saxton in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 0Last Post: 29th July 2004, 10:00 PM