Thread: Ironwoods Handsaw Bonanza & Restoration of...

Originally Posted by Ironwood

I am only going as far as 400 w&d, is this enough ? ( after reading that Lance is going through to 1200 )

1. Don’t use my stumbling restorations as a reference, it will be the blind leading the blind!
2. “All the way to 1200” was an experiment. I had the w&d handy, so thought “why not”. I only polished my dovetail saw up to 400, and to be honest, that’s all I will probably do in future. After using #911876-432^4 over the weekend, it’s full of wood rub marks and the plate finish is indistinguishable from that of the dovetail saw.

I’ve been following your restorations, and they’re working out very nicely.

Originally Posted by LanceC

1. Don’t use my stumbling restorations as a reference, it will be the blind leading the blind!
2. “All the way to 1200” was an experiment. I had the w&d handy, so thought “why not”. I only polished my dovetail saw up to 400, and to be honest, that’s all I will probably do in future. After using #911876-432^4 over the weekend, it’s full of wood rub marks and the plate finish is indistinguishable from that of the dovetail saw.

I’ve been following your restorations, and they’re working out very nicely.

And here I was thinking a mirror finish was the standard, and my mere 400 was a dull and lowly effort, thanks for that.
When Paul said to start with 240, I was a bit taken aback, normally I probably would have started with 120, but I hadn’t taken into account preserving any etches that may present themselves..

Another saw done
Guys I’m really impressed there coming up really well,
I have some 5000 grit wet an dry, I’m not going to waste my self or that on a saw [emoji12].

Please keep them coming.

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Ironwood

And here I was thinking a mirror finish was the standard, and my mere 400 was a dull and lowly effort, thanks for that.
When Paul said to start with 240, I was a bit taken aback, normally I probably would have started with 120, but I hadn’t taken into account preserving any etches that may present themselves..

Brad

I remember saying that but not where. The 240g was really only the top of where an etch might lurk. By all means use 120g elsewhere, but only if you have to. By that I mean there is a balance between initial speed and removal of nasty material and the later stages where you now have to remove the marks made by the 120g. Does that make sense? I'm finding it a bit difficult to articulate. It could be the heat that seems to be getting to me. 38/39 degs C everyday.

Also in Lance's restoration thread Planemaker linked this video by Andy Lovelock:

YouTube

I am mentioning this because in the past I have linked it too. While it is a long video, it covers many different saw types. Particularly I like that he is not presumptuous and overall it is very easy to listen to him. Sit down with a good supply of your favourite beverage.

Regards
Paul

Cheers Paul, hopefully the heat wave will ease soon and some more agreeable weather will make things more conducive for getting things done. We have had mid to high 30's here lately and I have been hitting the pool a few times during the day to keep cool and restore sanity.

With the 2 saws I have done to date, I have been using a scraper to remove the outer gunk, so starting with 240 hasn't been too bad, plenty of CRC helps.

I tried to watch that video last night, but fell asleep a couple of times, and finally woke up just as it was finishing .

I ordered some more files from The Wood Works Book And Tool Co. this afternoon, hopefully will have them for next lot of days off.

While inspecting the remaining saws this afternoon, I removed the handle off #10 , and gave it a going over with my improvised scraper.
I originally was thinking this saw and #71 would be needing new handles, but I would like to preserve the originals with the wheat carving. I think I can repair/restore both these to a satisfactory standard.
#10 is cracked through the bottom of the handle where it meets back at the saw plate, I think I will drill a couple of holes and use 2 steel pins or nails for support, and fill the crack with epoxy.
#71 has the top horn broken off and a previous repair using the original piece glued and screwed. I think I can improve the appearance with a bit of shaping, and some epoxy to fill the voids.
While I was prepared to make new handles, I wouldn't be going the the trouble to replicate the wheat carving, so if I can use the existing handles I will be happy.

Not sure how much I will get done until after Christmas now, as I have a pretty busy schedule. Will see how things go.

Not a lot of progress has happened since my last post. But I did drill the two 1.6mm holes for the pins and inserted the pins into the handle of #10.
This morning I mixed up some Epiglue, and filled the gap in the handle, also used a bit to fill some damage on the top horn which isn't really visible in the photo.
I had collected some sawdust off the handle that I was going to mix into the glue to try and make it blend in a bit better, but my pile of sawdust got knocked off the bench yesterday while we were cutting some ply to go into the back of my Sons Nissan Patrol Wagon.
So I ended up just going with the straight Epiglue, it dries an opaque tan colour, so hopefully will look alright.

This was before the repairs were done.
DSC_0927.jpg


I haven't started on the saw plate yet, that will have to wait until after New Year now.
2 of the files I ordered from the Woodworks turned up, the rest are on backorder. I got a double extra slim 5", and double extra slim 6".
Not sure what brand they are, they came in clear plastic tubes, and the only marking is on the tang end of the files " FDick "

Originally Posted by Ironwood

Not sure what brand they are, they came in clear plastic tubes, and the only marking is on the tang end of the files " FDick "

F Dick is a brand I normally associate with butchers' steels. It is a top of the range brand for those products, is German made and is short for Frederick Dick. A littl more investigation may be necessary.

Regards
Paul

It seems they do make saw files too.
Saw files: For a fine and even surface - Friedr. Dick

Over the last few days I have had a few minutes spare here and there.
I got old #10, which is actually a #12, back together again.

The Epiglue wasn't a total success. I was expecting more of a brown colour, but unfortunately ended up with a mucus colour instead. Oh well, if I scuff it up a bit, maybe dirt will get into the scratches and make it blend in a bit better.

There is no etch left on the blade that I can make out amongst the pitting, just a half visible '10' stamped on the heal. The blade still rings like a tuning fork when I tap it with my knuckle, I am hopeful it will make a nice user once I sharpen it.

One of the bolts is not original, its a steel one, the nut is brass but also not original, and a different profile than the others.
DSC_0930.jpg

DSC_0932.jpg

DSC_0933.jpg

I think before I move onto the next candidate, I will make a saw vice, and turn some handles for my new files.

Originally Posted by Ironwood

Over the last few days I have had a few minutes spare here and there.
I got old #10, which is actually a #12, back together again.

The Epiglue wasn't a total success. I was expecting more of a brown colour, but unfortunately ended up with a mucus colour instead. Oh well, if I scuff it up a bit, maybe dirt will get into the scratches and make it blend in a bit better.

There is no etch left on the blade that I can make out amongst the pitting, just a half visible '10' stamped on the heal. The blade still rings like a tuning fork when I tap it with my knuckle, I am hopeful it will make a nice user once I sharpen it.

One of the bolts is not original, its a steel one, the nut is brass but also not original, and a different profile than the others.
DSC_0930.jpg

DSC_0932.jpg

DSC_0933.jpg

I think before I move onto the next candidate, I will make a saw vice, and turn some handles for my new files.

Ironwood,
That has come up a treat,
Love the little feature you have incorporated into the handle at the base[emoji6].

If you can get me some measurements of one of the original bolts, I see if I have a replacement for the ring in steel one.

Cheers Matt

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Ironwood,
That has come up a treat,
Love the little feature you have incorporated into the handle at the base[emoji6].

If you can get me some measurements of one of the original bolts, I see if I have a replacement for the ring in steel one.

Cheers Matt

HeyMatt, I meant to measure up the original bolt before I came back up to the house. A beer fridge in the shed has it’s good points and bad .
I know the diameter of the original brass heads is 12mm give or take a coupla thou, the steel bolt was 14mm and it was too big to fit in the recess, I turned it down to 12mm so it would fit a bit better .
I was planning to make a new brass bolt or try and obtain a replacement, if you have a spare I am sure we can come to an agreement.

Originally Posted by Ironwood

HeyMatt, I meant to measure up the original bolt before I came back up to the house. A beer fridge in the shed has it’s good points and bad .
I know the diameter of the original brass heads is 12mm give or take a coupla thou, the steel bolt was 14mm and it was too big to fit in the recess, I turned it down to 12mm so it would fit a bit better .
I was planning to make a new brass bolt or try and obtain a replacement, if you have a spare I am sure we can come to an agreement.

I have a look tomorrow,mate.

Cheers Matt [emoji41]

Tomorrow might be Tuesday now
Because I forgot sorry [emoji17][emoji3064]

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Tomorrow might be Tuesday now
Because I forgot sorry [emoji17][emoji3064]

No problems Matt. I’m in no hurry.
I still haven’t made the saw vice or turned the handles for the files .
But I did have a cleanup in 2 of my sheds today. The woodworking shed is a lot less dusty, and I can walk right through without dodging stuff on the floor. And the other shed, I now can swing a cat in the work area, and access the timber storage