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  1. #16
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    OK, I thought I could see a knob in one of the pics in your first post.

    An 8mm hole in a 1/2" bolt would be no problem on a lathe, as long as it's accurately cenred, I think it will leave plenty of wall left on the bolt for the application. I think it will be hard to get a really accurate hole in a drill-press, but I don't suppose it would matter if it were a few thou off-centre as far as its function goes.

    PM or email me, & we'll sort something out - the whole job, drilling out the bolt & making the brass pad would take less than a 1/2 hour, even on my kindergarten lathe...
    Cheers,
    IW

  2. #17
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    Thanks Ian, I have sent you an email through the forum. Hopefully it got through.

    I could not attach a sketch I made so I will leave it here for now.


    Ixion Bench Drill Pressure Control Assembley Sketch.jpg
    Attached Files Attached Files

  3. #18
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    OK, the pad is dead easy, you've given me all I need to whip one up in the morning....
    IW

  4. #19
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    Hi, the progress over the weekend.
    Thanks to Ian the issue with the pressure pad and bolt drilled has been sorted. Still have to make a handle/knob. Will post that when that part is done.

    In the meantime I worked on getting a new base made so it can stand upright again. I used some 25mm thick plywood I had. I cut three pieces of it. A bottom piece and then another piece to go on top, which I made a little smaller on the sides. That produces a ledge, which then allows me to clamp it down. I have not made any holes for hold down bolts as I do not know where it will permanently sit later. I did cut some T-slots in the top to allow for some hold down option.

    Then a smaller third piece for the back to allow for a nice deep hole for the pole to go in. As I was not confident I could get the holes absolutely vertical I decided to drill the big holes in each piece separately so that when fitted together I could slightly offset them to make the pole sit vertical. For that I did put the casing with the drill shaft on it and then clamped everything together and taped the pieces in position to have the drill shaft as vertical to the base as possible.

    I did not have the right size hole cutter for my power drill so I reverted to using an adjustable auger in the bit brace and it worked really good. Some sample drill in scrap wood before I had the right setting on the bit though.

    I also incorporated a bolt on the back to fix the pole to the base and in order to reinforce that part I did put another piece at the back. Otherwise I tried to keep it simple and functional.


    20191024_173457.jpg20191025_195624.jpg20191026_160851.jpg20191026_212635.jpg

    Now as I was playing around with the parts and go on cleaning I noticed something odd about the middle cog. On the casing is a small grubscrew and a matching hole in the cog's shaft. However when you put the screw all the way in then it would result in arresting the entire gear assemble and nothing would move. Also the cog is definitely fix on it's shaft with the key.

    So I am not sure what the purpose of that screw is. Maybe Arfur can have a look if he has the same and what position the screw is when the drill is in use?


    20191027_123647.jpg20191027_123931.jpg20191027_175749.jpg

    I wonder what other little secrets this machine has for me.

    Cheers

  5. #20
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    Looking at Arfur's pictures, there is no screw in the idler cog housing on his model. It looks like a factory job on yours, I can't imagine a backyard "handyman" with limited gear getting a screw hole in straight & clean like that. I would suggest the grubscrew is to fix the shaft in position & stop it falling out or working its way further inside the casing - the shaft must be a press-fit on Arfur's. The idler cog should spin freely on its shaft. This would make sense to me because the moving part is inside where there is lots of grease to keep it lubricated....

    Cheers,
    IW

  6. #21
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    You might be right, then I would have another problem, because the cog does not spin on the shaft.

    Also if you look on the pictures you see that there is a groove on the shaft and I believed the cog is married to it with a key.

    I also do think I can see same grub screw on Arfur's picture (see my marking). That might also be wishful thinking on my behalf

    My thought was that maybe it is on purpose to arrest the gears so it might be easier to open the chuck for example. I noticed on the egg beater hand drills it is sometimes hard as when you twist the chuck the handle also moves and you have to grip everything somehow.

    However, maybe Arfur can she'd some light. He should also be able to see if the idle cog shaft is rotating or not from the outside.

    One way or another we'll find out....

    By the way all the shaft seats have little holes on the side, which I believe are there to put some oil on them every now and then.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  7. #22
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    Ian, I totally forgot to mention, that I did get a nice aluminium disc as you suggested. That'll be my task for next weekend to make the handle for the pressure pad.

    Thanks for that.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cklett View Post
    ....I also do think I can see same grub screw on Arfur's picture (see my marking). That might also be wishful thinking on my behalf ...
    Yep, you're quite right, there seems to be a screw there alright - the shadow camouflages it & I didn't enlarge the picture enough to see it.

    OK, that shoots my theory down - if the idler cog is keyed to its shaft, then the shaft obviously has to spin in the housing, so the only conclusion I could make is that it's a 'transport' lock. But a) it's not the sort of gadget you'd lug around in your tool kit to a new jobsite every day & b) why would you need to lock the mechanism anyway?

    Very curious - someone please tell us what it's really there for.......

    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cklett View Post
    Ian, I totally forgot to mention, that I did get a nice aluminium disc as you suggested. That'll be my task for next weekend to make the handle for the pressure pad.....
    Good-o, if you need a 1/2" tap, I have both NC & Whitworth (I think your bolt is Whitworth). Half inch in Imperial size is the only one where Whitworth & NC don't match in pitch, one's 12 tpi & the other is 13. Why would they choose to go separate ways on hat one size? Who knows!?

    Cheers,
    IW

  10. #25
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    Feb 2015
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    Sorry Gents, I have been off line for a few days. re the attached image.

    1 The bottom half of the lower flywheel bearing is held in place with a grub screw, presumably on an extension of the flywheel.
    2 The gear on the upper crank shaft has a pin through it and the shaft.
    3 The gear and bevel gear on the lower crank shaft are locked to the shaft, I can see one pin on the back of the bevel gear
    4 The idler between cranks spins is on a fixed shaft, there is a grub screw on the opposite side to what looks like an oil hole on the outside of the casting.
    5 The bevel gear is loosely keyed to the main shaft and can float between the sections of casting and in the slot in the shaft.

    Let me know if you need anything else, it looks like it has been lubricated with graphite grease sometime so I have been resisting the urge to provide a nice clean picture

    Cheers
    Arfur
    IMG_5915 2.jpg

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arfur View Post
    4 The idler between cranks spins is on a fixed shaft, there is a grub screw on the opposite side to what looks like an oil hole on the outside of the casting.
    Thanks Arfur. I really appreciate the effort to provide some insides. So now I have to inspect my part more carefully and see if I can loosen the idler from it's shaft. Maybe the groove in the shaft is then to allow lubricant to get in. Will see.....

  12. #27
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    Yep, right. I got the pieces apart.
    It turns out the slot was not for a key. It seems it lines up perfectly with the oiling hole if fixed with the grub screw (see picture)
    I assume it is so that the lubricant can flow from the hole in the housing to the turning gear. Very clever again.



    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  13. #28
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    Looks like you've got it sorted then, Ck. Not far from making some holes now.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cklett View Post
    ...It turns out the slot was not for a key. It seems it lines up perfectly with the oiling hole if fixed with the grub screw (see picture)
    I assume it is so that the lubricant can flow from the hole in the housing to the turning gear. Very clever again.
    Ahh, that makes much more sense.

    Watching with interest (and popcorn).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...

  15. #30
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    Still a few things to do. Yesterday I have finished also the handle.

    I couldn't just get a handle and put it over the rod. And as I do not have a lathe I had to do it free hand. Took a dowel and went on it with spokeshave, file and sand paper until I liked the shape.

    Then I took the thinnest saw I had and cut it in half. A piece of tent rod serves as the metal collar which just fit over the knob at the end of the handle rod. I then glued it back together over the rod, sanded and finished. To make sure I did not glue it to the rod I applied a generous amount of wax to the metal handle and rotated the handle during drying a few times.

    Worked out well I think. Not as perfect as on a lathe, but pretty impressed how close you can get just by eye and hand tools. The shape is not like the original. I just went with what feels good in my hand.

    Next will be to rework the chuck and get it going as well.



    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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