Thread: Japanese chisels

The issue against hollow grinding is, I believe, more a case of a high speed grinder overheating the thin hlayer of hard steel and affecting the temper. It is not about losing support to the steel.

I have been hollow grinding some of my slicks (paring chisels) with a 10" Tormek. This runs very cool so there is no danger to the temper. I really like the result. I freehand hone these afterwards on waterstones and they are very easy and quick to get Sharp.

If I did not have a Tormek, I would not hollow grind but leave the bevel flat. My solution then would be to freehand the blades, not use the honing guide. On such a wide expanse of blade, a guide will hold the angle too rigidly, and force you to to reshap the whole face each time. It would be different if you were honing a microbevel, which is reapeatable and just a small area, but I avoid these on chisels as they prevent you using the chisel bevel down. Freehanding a Japanese chisel is easy since the blade is wide. You will be able to work on selected areas of the face as needed.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek, I have a Tormek so next time i have to sharpen my japanese chisels i might give hollow grinding a go.
Mick

Hi Mick

Here is an additional strategy.

If you want to use the honing guide, do not use the angle setter. Instead, place the blade in the guide and tighten it loosely so that the blade can be slid abck or forth. Now slide it until the hollow ground bevel is flush with the honing surface. This is as close as you would get to freehanding as in the latter you balance the blade on the sides of the hollow. You can feel it click into place.

The idea honing guide for Japanese blades is the Side Skate. Look up the review on my web site. This will also give you instruction on Side Sharpening.

Regards from Perth

Derek