Thread: Japaning Stanley Planes

Originally Posted by Stephen Penno

Hi everyone, I have a few Stanley planes that I am restoring and would like to give tradional Japaning a go . If my research is correct Japaning is made by using Asphaltum which as far as I can discover is actually a product called Gilsonite which is used to make Asphalt. Am I wrong or right ? I can not find where to buy Gilsonite, ie a kilo or so. I am thinking that if I can find a company who makes Asphalt I may be able to procure a small amount. Or would any of you guys know where I could buy some. Any help out there ?
Regards Stephen.

Yes on all of that. Gilsonite makes a 200 grit powder or something around that level, sold through art suppliers. They market their mined semi-resin for all kinds of different purposes from art to driveway sealer, and their site says that they grade the stuff by temperature sensitivity. That means you want the powder that's solid in 1 pound lots, and sometimes less than that - in 100g tins or whatever through art suppliers. if you get anything else, you risk getting a grade that won't get hard, or a grade that will be too hard.

There was just a thread here - several of us japanned planes and my apologies, I personally went on a big tirade in it because aside from sourcing materials, you're going to find out that this is really really easy to do the right way and for 16 or 17 years, I've been reading about how it's not easy.

The only thing I can add that's not clarified in that that I've learned since is when you see recipes for cold japanning, the mix will look like this:
50% solvent (modern recipes are usually turpentine - but I see that turpentine isn't popular with your government and for gilsonite at least, naphtha should be every bit as good. Not sure how it's sold in australia - perhaps as "white spirit" or very refined lower odor gasoline, whatever)
25-30% gilsonite by weight
20-25% boiled linseed oil

The gilsonite is dissolved as much as possible in the solvent, then a day or so later, mix in the oil and mix again and then allow the whole lot to settle - or you can start some test pieces.

Brush on pieces - straight up metal is fine, asphaltum has strong chemical adhesion to bare iron, no priming. Then bake for 1-2 hours at 400-450F. Allow the japanned item to cool, then recoat until you have as much build as you want and bake the last coat a bit longer.

that's it. you're actually creating a varnish that's linked on the tool - the oil and the asphaltum crosslink, that is, like a true varnish, and the bake proceeds to cure them like varnish that's sat in a warm room for 6 months.

I can't help as much with getting gilsonite, as the only successful purchase on your shores (i'm in the states) was someone taking their lumps and paying the shipping to get a pound to AU.

the baking should be done outside, and no other bitumens (high sulfur content in other bitumens, not that much in gilsonite) should be used in the mix - baking high sulfur asphaltum in any confined area could potentially knock you out.

last thing - I had a toaster oven after several years just by chance lose its temp control on the last thing I japanned. Just coincidence, but it burned the japanning and I felt pretty off that day - I think there's a good chance it was the burned japanning in my garage. Didn't know what was going on at the time - outside is best as I had no issues in the garage baking prior coats on small items (I wasn't in the garage) and just visiting the garage that day and seeing ribbons of smoke coming out of the toaster oven and being out there long enough to assess and turn off the toaster oven was no bueno.

I made the statement in that thread that I'd bake a large plane in a kitchen oven if there is a window to direct the fumes out and good enough temp control to avoid the burning that makes for sickly feelings - I'd still do that. I would never bake pitch or petroleum industry bitumen indoors at all unless a tornado had already been by and left the house without ceilings or roof but somehow left the oven operating. It's not worth the risk.

There is an art store in sydney called "natural pigments" that has gilsonite listed on their site. You may wish to call them - don't remember if anyone did. It could also be the case that they have it listed because I'm viewing from the USA and it may not be available on australia.

A pound of gilsonite will make more than half a gallon of japanning - even if it's 25% of the mix, you'll find the need to thin further. it would do so many planes that it's silly. A half gallon of it is like 1-2 gallons of paint and the amount that gets baked on a tool is thinner than it looks.

Hi Stephen
Try Gilsonite (Asphaltum) Powder - St Luke Artist Colourmen
I’ve just ordered some from there for myself
Based in Fitzroy Vic but post
Cheers Lucas

Hi Stephen,

That are supply looks like a good source.
If you are after a larger quantity try alibaba.

There is a company there that will sell 1kg “samples” of Gilsonite.

Here it is


https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/gilsonite-natural-bitumen-mud-chemicals-petrochemical_1600066178022.html?fromMSite=true


Be curious to see how this works out. I ave not pulled the trigger as yet.

It will probably be important for you guys to trial and share results of the various gilsonite sources. In the US where gilsonite is kind of distributed through art stores and such, the powder is a specific melting range. That range allows it to make a reasonably hard result when the japanning is baked, but without being so hard or high melting point that it won't bake in a 400F oven.

The company that mines and sorts gilsonite sorts the asphaltum for the purpose, so there should be confirmation that a source's product works. There's not much work to it, just take a piece of scrap steel or an old plane casting, sand the surface clean, make a cold mix and bake it for an hour or two at 400F, then check the qualities of the film the next day. If the mix is 50/50 (gilsonite to linseed) by weight, it will be pretty hard. if it's 50/50 by volume, it should be more pliable since it will be longer on linseed oil. longer on oil might have better long term prospects in terms of durability due to better pliability.