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Thread: My Saw Jointer

  1. #1
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    Default My Saw Jointer

    Also on the list of equipment to get me saw sharpening is a saw jointer. I saw a wooden example on eBay, listed by Jim Bode (2lshark), and thought I’d have a crack at making one of my own.

    Early Applewood SAW Jointer | eBay

    (This link may expire in the future as it points to an eBay listing active at the time of posting this thread)


    I squared some stock to roughly 75mm by 75mm and 150mm long. While still square, I cut the mortise for the wedge. When I was happy with the fit of the wedge I turned the shape as best I could (remember to allow for the thickness of the file if you make one of your own). If you compare the original on eBay with my copy, you’ll notice I need some more practice turning knobs and balls. The snazzy two-tone wedge is a fix-up. I pared the mortise too wide for the wedge so thickened the wedge with a strip of contrasting wood on either side.

    It is a great little tool. It holds the file snugly and with careful use keeps my hands away from the saw teeth.

    Saw Jointer With File.jpgSaw Jointer on Saw.jpgSaw Jointer (a).jpgSaw Jointer (b).jpg

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Sweet little blighter isn't it. Might have to make me one of them. Well done, like the two tone. (psst, never tell anyone it's a f up )
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  4. #3
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    Hey, I like that!
    The old cast iron ones you not only push down on, but you have to keep some pressure on one side to keep it square to the blade. And I keep my other hand on the other side of the blade to counteract that push.
    Yours is always square to the blade and you can focus on the flats, and forget about keeping the jointer square.
    Very cool!!

    Toby

  5. #4
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    I like the look of that. Have to rummage the offcuts box now.
    Regards
    John

  6. #5
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    I'm guessing you would have to make a set dependant on the depth of your saw blade and the kerf of the blade? A Small dovetail vs Large tenon saw..


    $105 You would want to make your own.
    46206.jpg
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  7. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    I'm guessing you would have to make a set dependant on the depth of your saw blade and the kerf of the blade? A Small dovetail vs Large tenon saw..
    A few years ago I made this to joint Chainsaw bar rails

    and it has an adjustable width set of brackets underneath that accomodate different thickness bars I just realised it could be further modified to be used on hand saws.

    BTW I no longer joint CS bar rails with this. Instead I use a 8" grinding wheel in an old table saw with water drip cooling. The bar lays flat on the table and I run the bar gently up against the side of the grinding wheel, The same could be done on hand saws if a saw needed to have a substantial amount take off the top of the teeth.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    I'm guessing you would have to make a set dependant on the depth of your saw blade and the kerf of the blade? A Small dovetail vs Large tenon saw..


    $105 You would want to make your own.
    46206.jpg
    Yes and no. In an ideal world a jointer that matches each type of saw......... With respect to kerf, the jointer I made had 75mm of wood under the file so there is very little side to side wobble. I felt the saw teeth would be level and square enough for subsequent sharpening whether the saw had a thin or thicker kerf. If the tops of the teeth were level and perpendicular to the saw plate or if the tops of the teeth were level and had a 1 or 2 degrees of slope off perpendicular wouldn't make much difference if the saw was then going to be hand filed. (Perhaps someone with much more experience than I could comment here.)

    With regard to the depth of plate, yes, my jointer is useless for a (back)saw with less than 75mm of plate under the back. I'd have to trim it to size or make another with less wood under the file. The scenario where there is less than 75mm of saw plate under the handle but greater elsewhere along the saw plate is catered for as the file extends beyond the sides of the jointer. This is more obvious in my photo than in the photo from eBay. The file I fitted to the jointer has 175mm of cutting surface. The saw handle is closest to the saw teeth at the heel of the saw. The file reached the teeth at the heel of the saw without the jointer body being fouled by the saw handle.

    Thanks for posting the photo of the antique jointer. It has a much more pleasing shape than my offering (but wait for version 2!).

    Cost was a consideration in my decision to make the tool. I saw a few metal jointers on eBay USA and Patrick Leach listed one recently. While the cost of these jointers was not excessive, once postage was added to the price, I felt my money was better put toward a tool I couldn't make for myself - like a saw set or saw files.

  9. #8
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    I think I have version 1.00 ... do I Paul?? I like it very much.

    I think your next project should be a low-profile one ... maybe like a chuting-plane hotdog handle ... for jointing the saw while it is in the saw vice.

    I had to re-joint several times in re-raking that 'K' saw, and my vice doesn't open and close as easily as yours looks to do.

    Cheers,
    Paul

    PS ... Nice china.
    ... I've always liked your wedge-wood. (I crack me up)

  10. #9
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    Default version 1

    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    I think I have version 1.00 ... do I Paul?? I like it very much.

    I think your next project should be a low-profile one ... maybe like a chuting-plane hotdog handle ... for jointing the saw while it is in the saw vice.

    I had to re-joint several times in re-raking that 'K' saw, and my vice doesn't open and close as easily as yours looks to do.

    Cheers,
    Paul

    PS ... Nice china.
    ... I've always liked your wedge-wood. (I crack me up)


    Yes, Paul, you have version 1.00. It will be upgraded to version 2.00 when I learn to turn balls and knobs.

    My next project (when the boxes are done?) will be learning to use the saw jointer, saw vice, files and saw set to produce a sharp useable saw.

    Those side strips on my wedge are made from home grown lemon (citrus) wood. It contrasts well with the jarrah.


    Paul

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by homesy135 View Post
    when I learn to turn balls and knobs.
    !! .. Into what? .. !!

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    !! .. Into what? .. !!

    Well, I feared a comment along these lines after post #1 in this thread. Thank you for waiting until after post #9.

  13. #12
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    Thumbs up

    Homsey that is a great little tool!!!

    Still not enough to make me want to buggerize around sharpening saws.

  14. #13
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    That's a fun little tool to make, butl if you don't own a lathe, here's the jointer I use. A small block of hardwood, a few cuts with the tablesaw, drill & tap for a couple of 6mm bolts, and that's it. Suits any size or thickness of saw, accepts just about any flat file, took less than 10 minutes to make & has lasted many years....

    Saw jointer1.jpg Saw jointer2.jpg

    Cheers,
    IW

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    That's a fun little tool to make, butl if you don't own a lathe, here's the jointer I use. A small block of hardwood, a few cuts with the tablesaw, drill & tap for a couple of 6mm bolts, and that's it. Suits any size or thickness of saw, accepts just about any flat file, took less than 10 minutes to make & has lasted many years....

    Saw jointer1.jpg Saw jointer2.jpg

    Cheers,

    Okay, your jointer is much simpler. Thank you for your post and photos, Ian. I didn't consider that style jointer. Now you've posted those pictures I seem to remember Schwarzy making a similar device for jointing card scrapers. Saves cutting a through mortise, too.

    Paul, I may not proceed with version 2.0. The need for turning spheres is now only academic.


    Paul

  16. #15
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    "spheres". Hmmph. Very PC.

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