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  1. #1
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    Default Jointing Planes - Do I need One?

    That's what I'm wondering? My longest plane is a jack; which is what I use when I want to joint boards for a panel. This doesn't work very well, but I'll put that down to my inability to hold the damn thing square. I don't expect a jointer to solve that problem, but it may assist in getting better glue joints as well as ultimately flattening the panels that I make.

    In the blogs that I follow or podcasts that I watch, a jointer seems ever present. But do they really get used much by us "average" woodworkers? For the folks out there that have one, do you use it much? Does it make a difference? Or is it just another tool to own?

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  3. #2
    Scribbly Gum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tools4Me View Post
    That's what I'm wondering? My longest plane is a jack; which is what I use when I want to joint boards for a panel. This doesn't work very well, but I'll put that down to my inability to hold the damn thing square. I don't expect a jointer to solve that problem, but it may assist in getting better glue joints as well as ultimately flattening the panels that I make.

    In the blogs that I follow or podcasts that I watch, a jointer seems ever present. But do they really get used much by us "average" woodworkers? For the folks out there that have one, do you use it much? Does it make a difference? Or is it just another tool to own?
    I have one and use it - see HERE
    Even though I have used a jointer for a long time, I usually use it with a fence when I want a square edge.
    Yes it does make a difference - for me anyway.
    Cheers
    SG

    DSC00269.jpg
    .... some old things are lovely
    Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
    https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/

  4. #3
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    Do you want one?
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  5. #4
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    +1 for Scribbly's comments. I have an HNT Gordon Trying Plane and it's a corker. Recently acquired a Stanley #7, but haven't used it much yet, but I reckon I will (for less difficult woods). Lee Valley has a bevel up Jointer that has an attachable side fence like Scribbly's (they supply the fence as well). I'm seriously considering purchasing that as well, mainly for the side fence, but also because no one (or two) planes will suit all woods.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  6. #5
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    I have full set of Planes from #1 through to #8,

    By far the most used is the #7

    It's not so much the holding the plane square (which takes a bit of practice)

    but the length of the sole that makes a jointing plane most effective for glue ups.

    Shorter planes tend to follow the dips and ridges of a boards edge.

    The longer sole of a Shooting Plane spans them thus creating a straighter glue up edge.



    Cheers

    Steve

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum View Post
    I have one and use it - see HERE
    Even though I have used a jointer for a long time, I usually use it with a fence when I want a square edge.
    Yes it does make a difference - for me anyway.
    Cheers
    SG

    DSC00269.jpg
    Oh cool, another woodworking blog

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    +1 for Scribbly's comments. I have an HNT Gordon Trying Plane and it's a corker. Recently acquired a Stanley #7, but haven't used it much yet, but I reckon I will (for less difficult woods). Lee Valley has a bevel up Jointer that has an attachable side fence like Scribbly's (they supply the fence as well). I'm seriously considering purchasing that as well, mainly for the side fence, but also because no one (or two) planes will suit all woods.
    Yes, it's the LV BUJ that I'm considering. I am also interested in their higher bevel angle blades as they can raise the effective cutting angle to 60 degrees (I think). Not that I am planing anything more difficult than Tassie oak at the moment though.


    Quote Originally Posted by fineboxes View Post
    I have full set of Planes from #1 through to #8,

    By far the most used is the #7

    It's not so much the holding the plane square (which takes a bit of practice)

    but the length of the sole that makes a jointing plane most effective for glue ups.

    Shorter planes tend to follow the dips and ridges of a boards edge.

    The longer sole of a Shooting Plane spans them thus creating a straighter glue up edge.



    Cheers

    Steve
    I am going through a process now of getting rid of many tools I thought I'd need/use, but didn't. I can see the value in it, but think I may use it so infrequently that I'd later regret buying it? But, it is another tool, and that is a hard thing to resist. Plus it would be another thing with a blade in it to sharpen and the missus just ***** loves when I do that in the kitchen

    Also, I guess I am wondering whether I'd be better served with an electric jointer?


    And yes Wongo, I do!

  8. #7
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    Put me down as another #7 user I have been thinking about putting one of these on mine to see if it helps me plane squarely.


    Bullseye Level - Lee Valley Tools



    joez

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by joez View Post
    Put me down as another #7 user I have been thinking about putting one of these on mine to see if it helps me plane squarely.


    Bullseye Level - Lee Valley Tools



    joez
    Hey that's a good idea!

  10. #9
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    + 1 for a #7 size jointer. The LV offering is great. Only thing that I dont like is sides arent 90 degrees to the base which would be ideal for shooting boards. But i guess thats why they make the low angle jack plane !

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum View Post
    I have one and use it - see HERE
    Even though I have used a jointer for a long time, I usually use it with a fence when I want a square edge.
    Yes it does make a difference - for me anyway.
    Cheers
    SG

    DSC00269.jpg
    Hey SG
    That looks great. It's a clip on is it? Is it a Stanley or a generic device?

    Regards

    TT
    Learning to make big bits of wood smaller......

  12. #11
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    [QUOTE=Tools4Me; I guess I am wondering whether I'd be better served with an electric jointer?[/QUOTE]

    Then you'll still need a #7 to plane of the machining marks left by the knives

    I say just bite the bullet and get one

    Cheers

    Steve

  13. #12
    Scribbly Gum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon View Post
    Hey SG
    That looks great. It's a clip on is it? Is it a Stanley or a generic device?

    Regards

    TT
    It's the Stanley 386.
    It has attachment screws and inside clamps that snug it up against the side of the plane body.
    The visible top screws allow some height/depth adjustment.
    Millers Falls also made one but if memory serves it was attached with rotating cams.
    Cheers
    SG
    .... some old things are lovely
    Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
    https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum View Post
    It's the Stanley 386.
    It has attachment screws and inside clamps that snug it up against the side of the plane body.
    The visible top screws allow some height/depth adjustment.
    Millers Falls also made one but if memory serves it was attached with rotating cams.
    Cheers
    SG
    Thanks SG
    I see that there is a thread about this running simultaneously above this.

    TT
    Learning to make big bits of wood smaller......

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon View Post
    Thanks SG
    I see that there is a thread about this running simultaneously above this.

    TT
    Yep. This thread got me thinking, so I re-incarnated the old one.

  16. #15
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    Anybody got any thoughts on how high bevel angle blades in a BU plane compare with a high angle frog in a BU down plane? Will the same effective high angle deal with woods equally as well?

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