Thread: Keeping planes clean

I use wooden ones...he he he

doent really help as the wooden ulmia scrub is also covered in black from the tanin

When things start to get a bit tarnished these work brilliantly.

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks Australia | Handblock

They last quite a while and are very quick, you will quite surprised.
Cheers,


Frank

Frank, would you use these on the sole?

If you don't want to take so much metal off.......I use Rust Remover applied with 0000 steel wool. This is a phosphoric acid based product. Removes all light surface rust and most stains from tools, etc.

I get mine from the local AutoPro or similar shop. Lots of brands out there, but just check the ingredients to make sure it is mostly phosphoric acid.

A word of warning though - don't get it near aluminium or anodising, just use it for steel/cast iron. Also removes the tarnish from brass parts.

I use it to clean up the surface of my tablesaw a few times a year, but am always careful to remove the (aluminium) fence first !

They work extremely well on the sole, using the widest flat section of the block. I use the medium, with a few even passes over the sole they clean incredibly well with out being in any way aggressive.
They will not harm the sole in anyway as the block breaks down as you use it.



Frank.

Eucalyptus oil will do the trick.

Originally Posted by FRB Design

When things start to get a bit tarnished these work brilliantly.

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks Australia | Handblock

They last quite a while and are very quick, you will quite surprised.
Cheers,


Frank

Frank, it says on that page they are fine silicon carbide, not being picky but fwiw that is the same as ordinary wet and dry paper, 50cents for a sheet of W&D vs $9 for the block...just saying


cheers
chippy

Easiest way is to call it the development of patina for the pleasure of future generations.

Originally Posted by ch!ppy

Frank, it says on that page they are fine silicon carbide, not being picky but fwiw that is the same as ordinary wet and dry paper, 50cents for a sheet of W&D vs $9 for the block...just saying


cheers
chippy

chippy, the blocks themselves will out last many sheets of wet & dry, there is something about the grit being suspended in rubber, the rubber actually aids in the cleaning aswell. I keep one for flat surfaces and one for curved edges or round pieces. On curved or round, for one example the finger depressions on side of the veritas block plane, the block will form to the shape. No need for water or WD.



Cheers,



Frank

Thanks to all. I ended up using the fine brown 3m scotchbrite. Then i remembered where i put the fine rubbing block.

Lee valleys reply was:

"We would suggest some mineral oil and some extremely fine steel wool. Another good item to clean up this is with a product caller a rust eraser.
We use the fine and it does an excellent job. To view:
Rust Erasers - Lee Valley Tools, perhaps some one there carries them.

If this doesn’t, then you might try some automotive type products such as a rubbing compound. It appears you need a bit of an abrasive so go as fine as you can. Even baking soda might work for this and worth a try."

Scott next winter I'll try the eucalyptus. I think i will get some of those adhesive remover swabs and try those too.