Thread: Kerfing Plane

Great job. Much nicer than my converted Stanley #50. I just made a kerfing saw blade for it. Yours is beautiful and looks like more comfy than the metal chunk I use [emoji6]



In regard to the teeth shape. I first used a 6tpi blade. Then later I changed to the Blackburn pattern with the deep gullets. The 6 tpi clogg up very fast and every 4 strokes I had to clear the teeth from saw dust. The new pattern with the deep gullets do not clogg up and clear very easy.

It is a bit harder to start. I found the long leading and trailing edges with no teeth help as you can use them to ease in and out of the cut without the teeth directly biting into the edge.



Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Gotta love prototypes that end up being used for years! A kerfing plane is one of my "gunnadoitwunday" projects (along with chamfer and dovetail planes); but as I generally split boards with a bandsaw I just haven't had the need for one...yet ...

I keep entertaining ideas of building a frame saw for doing public demos at my guild's open days; one day maybe!

Nice touch with the lambstongue moulding on the fence too.

Originally Posted by Cklett

Great job. Much nicer than my converted Stanley #50. I just made a kerfing saw blade for it. Yours is beautiful and looks like more comfy than the metal chunk I use [emoji6]



In regard to the teeth shape. I first used a 6tpi blade. Then later I changed to the Blackburn pattern with the deep gullets. The 6 tpi clogg up very fast and every 4 strokes I had to clear the teeth from saw dust. The new pattern with the deep gullets do not clogg up and clear very easy.

It is a bit harder to start. I found the long leading and trailing edges with no teeth help as you can use them to ease in and out of the cut without the teeth directly biting into the edge.



Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

I wouldn't worry about aesthetics, as long as it works good you've saved yourself a ton of work. As for comfort it's ok, I've already worked out that I don't need the front knob. I've been pushing the fence against the work like I do with the rabbet plane. I will definitely build another just not know. I want toput iut to good use and then make the changes on the new one. At first the teeth were really hard to start but I'm learning to lift the saw and lightly scratch the surface. I also added set and she works like a dream.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Gotta love prototypes that end up being used for years! A kerfing plane is one of my "gunnadoitwunday" projects (along with chamfer and dovetail planes); but as I generally split boards with a bandsaw I just haven't had the need for one...yet ...

I keep entertaining ideas of building a frame saw for doing public demos at my guild's open days; one day maybe!

Nice touch with the lambstongue moulding on the fence too.

The only time you will ever use a frame saw and kerfing plane is on boards wider than the throat capacity of your bandsaw. Other than that your fine without a kerfin plane. Me on the other hand it's a must. I have no bandsaw and this kerfing plane will really be a big aid in resawing. To buy a blade from blackburn is really expensive, it cost me $400 after the conversion two or more years ago. It's probably more now, but it is necessary. I am contemplating on buying a bandsaw.

Originally Posted by section1

The only time you will ever use a frame saw and kerfing plane is on boards wider than the throat capacity of your bandsaw. Other than that your fine without a kerfin plane. Me on the other hand it's a must. I have no bandsaw and this kerfing plane will really be a big aid in resawing. To buy a blade from blackburn is really expensive, it cost me $400 after the conversion two or more years ago. It's probably more now, but it is necessary. I am contemplating on buying a bandsaw.

what kind of blade do you mean - a large frame saw? Isaac hasn't delivered orders based on survey info on reddit, and people were getting stiffed out of their payment and getting nothing. I directed the group on reddit to the ag mediator's service in PA (which can result in systemic issues being referred for prosecution - but at the outset, its' voluntary...or put a different way, if issac would do the right thing, it all goes away. If he doesn't, it probably ends up getting referred for legal action by the state).

the number of people who were getting stiffed was bonkers large, and the same things are posted on various forums with folks. It culminated with the guy from Union claiming to one of the individuals mentioned that if you can't afford to lose money on a custom order, then you shouldn't be making the order anyway. A bizarre justification that if you buy from a small business who has trouble (apparently, suppliers not being available for isaac based on something he posted on his website after this took place), the union guy feels like you should consider your purchases charity. There was an unseemly setup, too, where isaac's contact info (like address and phone) arent' on his website and the union guy was directing refund requests to himself and then telling the complaint makers in the thread that "he'd see what he could do", then claiming refunds that were requested were made except nobody in the reddit cohort had actually received any.

and then the guy (from union) had a big meltdown and deleted all kinds of internet presence everywhere.

you can make any blade that isaac sells. I've made four framesaw blades for about $50 per out of 1095. it's not easy work, but it's doable and it will set you up well for being able to sharpen and set them later, because with blades at 2tpi, the setting isn't trivial.

Originally Posted by D.W.

what kind of blade do you mean - a large frame saw?

I wish there was a way to reply without quotes anyway, yes the large frame saw. I was very fortunate then to have received mine. I know he had some personal issues to deal with and his back orders got out of control but I had no idea he was stiffing people. I know it took many months for two screws to arrive because I couldn't find anyone to make me a pair. At one point I thought they would never arrive. I was stiffed $100 for them, but never again. Buying from the US isn't worth it anymore, the shipping fees are just too much.

They say he's back on track, some consultant has taught him how to run the business and be on top of his orders. I don't exactly know what his story is, at one point I heard his wife passed away and he's left with a small son to fend for whilst going through the pains of grieving. I don't know if any of that is accurate. But I'm reluctant to buy from him again even though my heart goes out to him, I just don't want to potentially throw my money away. I did email him several times and he never responded not even once. So, as they say money doesn't grow on trees and Aussies need to pull their finger's out and start manufacturing like the US. I would rather buy from someone in my home country than the US

Originally Posted by section1

Oh there is one more aspact I would change if I could and that is the way the teeth are shaped. Chris Blackburn recommends this shape on his website
but I have found it to be too aggressive and therefore very hard to start.

If you own a frame saw then I would highly recommend this plane to you. If you want to know more about this plane then head over to my blog where I've written up a small article on it.
The Purpose and Usefulness of a Kerfing Plane – Journeyman's Journal (wordpress.com)


IMG_4037.JPG

S1

Great to see you used the blade to good purpose. Bearing in mind the hard to start aspect, I think that could be tackled in a couple of ways. The rake could be increased in the first 50mm and/or the first 50mm of teeth could be smaller with a smaller gullet which would come with a higher ppi. The progressive tooth, of course, was normal practice on better quality rip saws.

If you would like to remind me of the original blade dimensions and the ppi, I could look into making up another blade with those modifications, although it will have to be after I return from holiday.

Your plane looks a treat. Maybe you shouldn't have sold your old bandsaw!

Regards
Paul

Nice job S1. What size are your screw threads? I have a 1/2" screw box and tap and are wanting to do something similar. What timber did you use?

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

S1

Great to see you used the blade to good purpose. Bearing in mind the hard to start aspect, I think that could be tackled in a couple of ways. The rake could be increased in the first 50mm and/or the first 50mm of teeth could be smaller with a smaller gullet which would come with a higher ppi. The progressive tooth, of course, was normal practice on better quality rip saws.

If you would like to remind me of the original blade dimensions and the ppi, I could look into making up another blade with those modifications, although it will have to be after I return from holiday.

Your plane looks a treat. Maybe you shouldn't have sold your old bandsaw!

Regards
Paul

Well, I thought I was clever and went against the advice of many including yourself. Btw how is the bandsaw going, have you been utulising it much. I may or may not buy another one. Paying for another one in these troubled times is just hard to justify. If the economy improves and the cost of living is no longer an issue then definitely.

I just took a measurement of the blade it is 10 3/16 x 1 1/2.
Many thanks in advance and whenever it gets done and I build a new one, I'll just give you the one I made.

Originally Posted by section1

Well, I thought I was clever and went against the advice of many including yourself. Btw how is the bandsaw going, have you been utulising it much. I may or may not buy another one. Paying for another one in these troubled times is just hard to justify. If the economy improves and the cost of living is no longer an issue then definitely.

I just took a measurement of the blade it is 10 3/16 x 1 1/2.
Many thanks in advance and whenever it gets done and I build a new one, I'll just give you the one I made.

S1

The bandsaw does get used, mainly when a table saw can't get enough depth of cut. It is also shoe horned into an awkward position within my shed and that slightly restricts the usage. It is ear marked for much more use in the future.

I will look into a new blade on my return from hols. In the meantime I would suggest you gently file back the rake on the leading edge of the teeth for about the first couple of inches. Just file a little at a time and see if you can detect any improvement. It would be best to do this with a flat file having a safe edge. Alternatively, you could grind the teeth off a conventional file, but you do need something with fine teeth (warding file type?). Just watch that you don't lower the toothline too much or you will have to joint them as well. Or.... just wait for the new blade.

Hang on to that kerfing saw as I will make up one when the time comes and copy your design anyway. Firstly, I have to make the frame saw from the components you gave me. I have a crosscut logging blade I will cut down for that purpose. I don't know when I will do that as it falls into the "fun" project category and such things are frowned upon when urgent projects are backing up in the pipeline.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

S1

Or.... just wait for the new blade.

Regards
Paul

I'll just wait for the new blade. I was tempted earlier on but whimped out.

Don't use a crosscut blade it'll be frustrating to cut with it.

Originally Posted by section1

I'll just wait for the new blade. I was tempted earlier on but whimped out.

Don't use a crosscut blade it'll be frustrating to cut with it.

S1

I only plan to use the plate with the old teeth removed and new rip teeth formed. However, that may be quite a task even with some large files I have. I will have to sit down and have a little think about how I will do it. A punch would be just perfect, but.....

The other thing I will have to check is plate thickness as I think it will be on the limit of being too thick. I also have some old bandsaw blades (ex metal cutting blades discarded at the workplace) that at 1" wide may be too narrow, but I have plenty with which to experiment. I think a 2" wide blade at say .042" would be good, but that is in a perfect world.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

S1

I only plan to use the plate with the old teeth removed and new rip teeth formed. However, that may be quite a task even with some large files I have. I will have to sit down and have a little think about how I will do it. A punch would be just perfect, but.....

The other thing I will have to check is plate thickness as I think it will be on the limit of being too thick. I also have some old bandsaw blades (ex metal cutting blades discarded at the workplace) that at 1" wide may be too narrow, but I have plenty with which to experiment. I think a 2" wide blade at say .042" would be good, but that is in a perfect world.

Regards
Paul

Here are the dimms from Blackburn's website:

Blade Dimensions (W x L x T)	PPI (TPI)	Hardware	Cutting Range*	Saw File
2" x 32" x 0.032"	4 1/2 (3 1/2)	Small	Up to 5"	8" Reg
3" x 36" x 0.042"	3 1/3 (2 1/3)	Large	4" - 8"	10" Reg
4" x 48" x 0.042"	3 1/3 (2 1/3)	Large	6"+	10" Reg

The "perfect World thickness" is what I have. It's 1095 steel which I don't know who sells it in OZ but I'm sure you'll find it.

Yeah I thought you were going to use the crosscut saw with its teeth in place.lol

Originally Posted by section1

I wish there was a way to reply without quotes anyway, yes the large frame saw. I was very fortunate then to have received mine. I know he had some personal issues to deal with and his back orders got out of control but I had no idea he was stiffing people. I know it took many months for two screws to arrive because I couldn't find anyone to make me a pair. At one point I thought they would never arrive. I was stiffed $100 for them, but never again. Buying from the US isn't worth it anymore, the shipping fees are just too much.

They say he's back on track, some consultant has taught him how to run the business and be on top of his orders. I don't exactly know what his story is, at one point I heard his wife passed away and he's left with a small son to fend for whilst going through the pains of grieving. I don't know if any of that is accurate. But I'm reluctant to buy from him again even though my heart goes out to him, I just don't want to potentially throw my money away. I did email him several times and he never responded not even once. So, as they say money doesn't grow on trees and Aussies need to pull their finger's out and start manufacturing like the US. I would rather buy from someone in my home country than the US

It seems badaxe has started selling these kits also, no idea if it’s affiliated to the Blackburn tools but seems a bit more reputable than a single man operation small business

DIY Frame Saw and Kerfing Plane Kits | Bad Axe Tool Works LLC

I similarly placed an order a year or more ago from Blackburn but cancelled it and had a refund and then bought a bandsaw but still a pretty cool saw kit to build. Maybe one day

Cheers
Nathan