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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Minnesota, USA
    Posts
    11

    Default Stanley no 3 level

    stasnley 3 02.jpg I purchased a Stanley #3 28 inch adjustable level at an antique store. It was in a big bucket full of other levels, most of which were missing one or both of the vials. The wood on this one was in the best shape and both the bubble vials were there. The level bubble is just a tiny bit off but the plumb bubble is right on. The adjuster screw for the level bubble would not turn and and of course was frozen with rust. I soaked the adjuster end in vinegar over night and was able to remove the surface rust. The threads looked clean but the screw will still did not turn. I applied some penetrating oil and let that sit over night. No turning. I am reluctant to apply much pressure as the adjuster screw is small and the slot is shallow. I do not want to round it over. Should I keep on with the oil? I have thought of applying some heat with the tip of a soldering gun to see if a little expansion would free it up. This has worked for me on a couple of planes that I have rehabbed, but I do not want to break the vial if it should get too hot. I thought also I might shim the low side with a plane shaving. Has anyone rehabbed an adjustable level or have any advice or other suggestions for what can be done to free up the screw?

    Thanks Dennis

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,472

    Default

    There was an old trick of using a cigarette lighter or a gas stove lighter to heat the area gently then melt a candle onto the thread. The lighter flame was small enough not to over heat surrounding areas and the wax wicked into the threads.
    Looking at the photo, I’d give the area a bit more of a scrub with a small wire brush first to remove as much rust a possible from the thread area then try the lighter and candle.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Little River
    Age
    78
    Posts
    1,207

    Default

    The screw area needs to be just hot enough that when you touch it with a candle it melts and wicks in. I think that it works because as you break the rust hold it generates heat which melts the wax and it wicks in even more lubricating the screw.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Minnesota, USA
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thanks for the suggestion. I had thought of heating but not the wax part, I'll try it tomorrow and see what happens.

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