Leytool Hand Drill - New Respect

**mike48** · 7th March 2012, 12:19 PM

Hi everyone,

pmcgee started a thread with an application for this tool, and I had a peek inside mine, and so as to not hijack the original thread, here is a new thread to see what it looks like.

My drill came from an aviation industry engineer's made up tool kit, probably bought new in Brisbane in the late 70s.

It received some early use, but then laid unused for 30 years.
It has a new home in my campervan, as an unpowered tool.

Made by Leyton Tool and Jig Company, High Road Leytonstone East London, and I must have walked past them at least a dozen times without noticing when I lived for a little while in Forest Drive West in the 70's

Designed in the 40s and evolved until the 80s?

Mine has a T-40 headed handwheel pivot bolt, as distinct from other bipin types on other Leytool drills, so I dont know the exact history.
(When did Torx start anyway?)

The chuck is self centering, 0 (yes) -1/4 inch capacity, assembled with a rear bipin threaded plug, itself threaded internally 1/2 inch 20 tpi UNF in RHT for the drive shaft. The little chuck jaws are spring loaded.
The shaft has a loose ball race hiding inside the "front" casting boss, acting like a combined thrust and axial bearing. The other end of the shaft has been axially drilled to take a single locating and thrust ball against the inner casting boss (for the pivot bolt). The shaft is driven by a machined steel bevel gear attached by roll-pin to the shaft.
The little gear has a shim washer against the outer alloy case, to axially locate the shaft, and allow lubrication.
It is hidden in grease in the photos.
You drive out the roll pin to clean and grease. I have used HTB grease, which is why it looks brown.

The driving gear is machined into the drive wheel alloy casting, and pivots on a special bolt, with adjusting shim washers on the inside to fit with clearance for the meshing of gear teeth.
The bolt is 1/4 20 tpi BSW, with special wide head for handwheel stability, and T-40 recess.
(I had a very close look at the T-40 recess, and decided that it was indeed that system).

The handle is, wait for it, dovetailed into the driving wheel, and then attached with a, wait for it, a 2BA RH machine screw.
Well designed.

I have renewed my respect for this little drill; it is well made and works well.
And it is small, so as to get into those tricky places.

Photos for your viewing.

cheerio, mike

other thread - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/u...-usage-149181/

**Quasimodo** · 7th March 2012, 05:55 PM

Hi Mike,

Yes I find one of these little drills is still very useful for drilling screw-holes when the battery drill is flat and you don't want to wait for it to recharge. The bakelite handle is the weak point I think as you often see them cracked or missing.

They still seem popular on Ebay - almost always attracting a few bids at least.

Thanks for showing us inside one.

**pmcgee** · 8th March 2012, 04:37 AM

Yes, thanks for the write-up. I had just assumed - without examining it too closely - that mine was pressed together or something and that its looseness was going to be a permanent feature. You made me re-examine my one and ...
I guess they had a better attitude towards making tools back then

Mine is earlier then yours I'm guessing - and in worse condition. It has a patent cast on the back that I take to refer to 1944. The handle is cast as part of the centre section not attached by a dovetail, and the centre bolt is designed to be turned by a two-pinned driver - I used some circlip pliers.

Only two washers, one on top of the other, for the turn handle ... and no washers and consequent slack in the drilling direction. *Very* simple construction.

Thanks again,
Paul McGee

**mike48** · 11th March 2012, 09:04 AM

Originally Posted by Quasimodo

Hi Mike,

The bakelite handle is the weak point I think as you often see them cracked or missing.

Agreed, and mine is showing signs of splitting and degradation.
It would be fixable, somehow.

But I think the drill also suffers a design deficiency of not having an idle gear at 180 deg from the driven gear, so as to support the driving gear wheel and stop gear wear and resultant sloppy feel. See photo for concept. Makes it feel so much more solid.
They made up for it partially with a largish diameter central support boss and bolt head.

cheerio, mike

**Scribbly Gum** · 11th March 2012, 09:25 AM

Originally Posted by mike48

Agreed, and mine is showing signs of splitting and degradation.
It would be fixable, somehow.

But I think the drill also suffers a design deficiency of not having an idle gear at 180 deg from the driven gear, so as to support the driving gear wheel and stop gear wear and resultant sloppy feel. See photo for concept. Makes it feel so much more solid.
They made up for it partially with a largish diameter central support boss and bolt head.

cheerio, mike

Yes, the extra idler gear makes a hand drill feel more balanced.
It must have been fairly common in the 1950's to use only one main gear with no idler for enclosed systems like this.
Millers Falls Buck Rogers Drills were the same - yet they perform very well.
The Stanley 610 was similar and is a fine drill.
Interestingly, drills similar to the Leytool are still made but with a plastic body.

(images found via google search)

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