Thread: Liogier handlemaker rasps

If you're only going to get one handle makers I think #9 would be best. You can always add a finer rasp later, but #9 will get rid of the waste so you can then switch to 80g sandpaper and upwards from there.

On the other hand, if there is not a lot of waste to remove (which can be the case with a handle) then #12 will do it, just a bit slower and a little further up the finishing path.

That wasn't a lot of help was it?

Originally Posted by 62woollybugger

Resurecting an old thread here. I'm about to get a couple of Liogier rasps, a 250mm cabinet makers in 9 grain & a handlemakers rasp. Just looking for advice on what grain I should get for the handlemakers rasp, 9 or 12?

why the mix cabinet makers and handle makers?

when starting down the rasp path I think you are better off getting 2 x cabinet makers in different grains, rather than one of each. The exception would be if you mostly want them for handles in which case I would suggest 2 x handle makers.

The cabinet makers can be used for handles, it just takes a bit more turning of the wrist. While the handle makers are no where near as useful for general cabinet work.

Originally Posted by 62woollybugger

Resurecting an old thread here. I'm about to get a couple of Liogier rasps, a 250mm cabinet makers in 9 grain & a handlemakers rasp. Just looking for advice on what grain I should get for the handlemakers rasp, 9 or 12?

It's impossible to be prescriptive for someone else, wb, but if you are only going for one, I'd suggest the finer grain. A 12 grain still rips off wood extremely fast, and the surface it will leave will be a lot better than a 9. You'll be able to move a little more quickly through the finishing steps. When I started out buying these hand-cut rasps, I'd had long experience with the machine-cut types, and initially chose rasps with teeth more or less the same size as the ones I'd been used to. These turned out to be far more aggressive than their machine-made cousins. I rarely use a rasp coarser than 9, these days.

Further to what Rob says, unless you are going to be making a lot of closed handles, you may be much better off with a model-maker's rasp (or two), than a 'handle-maker'. The 'handle-maker' is a pretty specialised thing, and really only (marginally) easier than a straight rasp when tackling the awkward bits inside the handle & return piece. You can do this part just as well with the model-maker, the only real difference is you have to be more careful not to catch the opposite sides. Even though the 'handle-maker' has one side 'safe', you can still ding the wood if you hit the opposite side, so it's not a 100% guarantee of success. The model-maker is a more versatile tool that you'll likely find plenty of other applications for (and it's toothed both sides).

Just my thoughts....
Cheers,

Originally Posted by 62woollybugger

Actually Rob, want I want is lots of rasps, but unfortunately finances only allow a couple. I've decided on the cabinet makers, just not which grain for the handlemakers one.

I hadn't read this post when I replied, but if you are limiting the number of rasps, I would even more strongly advocate you forget about the handle-maker & go for versatility! I notice a trend in the replies favouring both finer cuts and versatility, so there's a concesus forming.

FF, I don't think your reply was un-helpful - you seconded my opinion that finer cut rasps are almost as quick & give a better finish. You must be right!

Actually, if it's versatility you want, maybe you should give a thought to the '49' clones rather than the 250mm cabinetmaker. I tend to use these over the cabinetmakers of equivalent size & cut. The reasons are 1) They are a bit thinner & lighter than the equivalent cabinetmaker, and easier to use one-handed as when shaping saw handles; 2) they have 'flatter' backs, which are better for planing cuts on sweeping curves (more teeth engaged in the cut & easier to control; 3) they are less 'pointy' and I get to use more of the rasp. Who uses the pointy end of the cabinetmakers more than once per blue moon, anyway?? I guess there would be some who have need of it, but in general cabinetmaking, it's not something I find very handy, more of a hazard than anything else!

An extra 2c....
Cheers,

After having them for a few years I find the cabinet makers great for the bigger work (not handles etc) but I
often reach for the slightly smaller (mid size) rasps and finer grain. I find the finer grain cuts as quickly as the big
but much smoother and easier to control. I still also think the uncoated rasps cut better and seem to last just as well
as the more expensive coated rasps. My 2bobs worth. Still love and use them all.

Originally Posted by Claw Hama

After having them for a few years I find the cabinet makers great for the bigger work (not handles etc) but I
often reach for the slightly smaller (mid size) rasps and finer grain. I find the finer grain cuts as quickly as the big
but much smoother and easier to control. I still also think the uncoated rasps cut better and seem to last just as well
as the more expensive coated rasps. My 2bobs worth. Still love and use them all.

Hey Claw, have you had an opportunity to compare the coated vs uncoated rifflers for stone?

Well then, if you're stuck on just one handle maker I suggest the 15 gr. The 12 gr. will leave you with a lot of filing/sanding and, as others have noted, the finer rasps cut slower which is an asset in handle making because it's very easy to remove too much material in the wrong area and wreck your whole effort. You can substitute the 14 gr. model makers for almost all of the work done by the handle makers and have a multi-purpose tool. The Nicholson superior milled tooth half round files are a cheap way to shape handles but the Liogier rasps are vastly superior woodworking tools.

A case in point: It is years on and I still do not have any handle-maker rasps. I just do not make enough handles to justify them. I have several cabinetmaker rasps, and could purchase a few more. I can easily justify these since they get used quite frequently.

Most of use enjoy have good tools, and are tempted to purchase them for some future use. I am as guilty as any other. Still, my advice is 'spent 90% of your money on the tools you will need 90% of the time'.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I concur completely with foregoing the handle makers rasps. I have four, anticipating a huge number of handles to be made and all fully enclosed, and I hardly use them at all. They were purchased over a number of Group Buys. The cabinet makers files and the model makers files are easily the most useful. Smaller sizes in particular for handle making.

However, if you are intent on making coves in the handles, the round files are also excellent, but you can get around that by using sandpaper around a dowel.

Regards
Paul

Hi FF
Yes and no, yes I have used both but not enough to draw a final conclusion, stay tuned, I have a couple of small pieces to
to make soon so that might be enough to get a determination.

The Logier Handle Makers Rasp with its increased curvature is specifically designed for shaping the inside area of a closed saw handle. You need to bear that it mind when your considering its merits.

Thanks for the advice everyone, you've made me see the error of my ways, so I'll forgo the handlemakers rasp. I will probably wait until the next group buy & get the 3 piece starter set (cabinet makers, model makers & rat tail). For the few times I would want the handle makers, I will bend up a piece of steel flat bar & stick some sandpaper to it.

Originally Posted by 62woollybugger

..... For the few times I would want the handle makers, I will bend up a piece of steel flat bar & stick some sandpaper to it.....

If you're making a saw handle, wb, you really don't even need to do that. I got by making closed handles using straight rasps and a knife for quite a while before the 'handlemaker' idea came along. I still use the straight rasps & knife for most of the shping, so given the amount of time the curved rasps get used on each handle, they will take a very long time to pay for themselves. And I think I make a few more handles than average.

That 'starter kit' seems like a good choice to me, those rasps would have a broad range of uses. After you've had them a while, you will be in a much better position to know what other rasps might be useful to you. You'll also have a better idea of what grain size suits you and what you do - we seem to vary a bit with out preferences there.

These hand-cut rasps are a bit habit-forming. After using them it's impossible to go back to the crude machine-made things available in your average hardware store. The good news is, you can get by extremely well with a small number of them if you choose carefully.

Cheers,

Just spent a 1/2 hour, engrossed, on the Liogier site watching the gent shape table legs - wow!
While I don't do a lot of rasp shaping at this point in time, what caught my attention was the Joinery Float File for mortise and tenons. Not cheap but looks to be near essential item. At present, I use metal working files
Question to those who do a lot of woodworking - is it a worth while purchase as I do quite a few joints?
TIA

Peter