Thread: Lovely wispy transparent shavings

I'm sure all the 'plane experts' will come in later -but here's my 2 cents worth.

It easiest to do with a plane that has an adjustable mouth - either old stanleys with moveable frog or one of the newer ones like the veritas. For thin shavings close the mouth up.

Make sure all is flat/square/sharp - you say you have done this.

Use the right plane for the right wood - ie for hard timbers, a plane with a higher angled blade; for soft woods a standard 45 degree blade or lower works well.

Wind the blade back into the body so it won't cut and start winding it out until it just starts to cut. This way you can dial in the finest of cuts. It doesn't even look like the blade is visible, at times (or maybe tha's just my eyes!).

I find that pine is not actually the easiest to plane - its almost too soft. I'd try a medium density wood like tassie oak, to start with.

Good luck - keep trying until it works!

Long and straight grained timber is easiest to plane. Like pine.

Short and interlinked grain is the most difficult. Like Jarrah, amongst others.

Here is a Bedrock #604 with LN blade on pine ...

Here is Jarrah planed with the Veritas BUS ...

They don'e come much thinner than this ... (Jarrah again) ...

Sharp blade, tight mouth, flat sole, pure of heart.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Claire and Derek,

Thanks for getting back to me, impressive stuff Derek. The LN planes are a cut above the Stanley planes, is it possible to replicate your efforts with all Stanley equipment (ie blade as well)?

I know my blade is super sharp and the sole is flat, at least that's what my steel rule says, only other thing is the mouth but that could be hard to adjust.

Originally Posted by Tiger

the mouth but that could be hard to adjust.

The only thing you can do is move the frog as far forward as you can to close up the mouth. I have also heard of shims being used on the frog, however if you get a thicker blade then the mouth will close up as well.