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  1. #16
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    May 2019
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    Brisbane
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Derek, your handles are always so crisp. Love the lines and the execution (and the timber)! Glad you don't use photobucket anymore, the watermarks obscured half the image. Good luck on your restos CK and Graeme.
    Restoration is coming along.

    I derusted and painted fresh. The holding screws for the saw guides to the base were so mangled that I gave them to a friend to weld on some material. Then I can reshape the screw head before I can use them again. The reason is that they again have an uncommon thread size. I couldn't find replacement.

    Anyway, in the meantime, I sorted the issue of the missing saw. The guy I hot is from sold it to me with this saw.



    That saw is way too big. It has a cut depth of 3 1/2". The mitre box was made for saws 16" long and only cut depth of 2 1/2".

    So I had to make a new one. I found a saw with right dimensions, but the handle was rubbish. I decided to make a new handle to my liking. The spine was originally painted black. I decided to add some colour for fun.



    This one fits much better. I also cleaned the other saw up. It's a nice heavy Tyzack.

    Here is a comparison of the saws.



    Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    10,832

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    The original saw was 16" long with a depth of 2 1/2". Here is the one I made - the plate is filed 13 tpi crosscut, and is 0.20" thick.








    Hope this helps.


    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  4. #18
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    May 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Thanks Derek, although I believe you meant 0.020" thick.

    My new saw is exactly same length and depth. Just seems my plate thickness is a bit thicker with 0.025". However, it fits perfectly well in the saw guide. Maybe the slots in my saw guide are already a bit worn.

    Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

  5. #19
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    May 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
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    OK, the mitre box is done and ready for work again. I got some help from a master tool make in the Brisbane area to remake some new screws and replace missing thumbscrew for the rear depth stop.[emoji6]



    Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,140

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    Nice work, but also a little embarassing.

    Seeing the photos of your mitre box and of Derek's reminds me of how I have been dragging my feet in not restoring mine. They also give me a target - do it properly!

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,155

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    CK

    The saw looks good. That hole in the toe of the back is to put a device to prevent the saw being withdrawn too far and coming clear of the rear guide. Something as simple as a nail will suffice, but you might be able to engineer something a little flashier.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    304

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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Nice work, but also a little embarassing.

    Seeing the photos of your mitre box and of Derek's reminds me of how I have been dragging my feet in not restoring mine. They also give me a target - do it properly!
    Same here. I have my fathers mitrebox sitting the shed to restore one day. The part that concerns me most is how to go about sharping the saw. Should have got my father to teach me but I did not have much interest in woodworking back then.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
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    11,155

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete57 View Post
    Same here. I have my fathers mitrebox sitting the shed to restore one day. The part that concerns me most is how to go about sharping the saw. Should have got my father to teach me but I did not have much interest in woodworking back then.
    Pete

    if you want a comprehensive video, try this one by Andy Lovelock:

    Sharpening Western Saws - YouTube

    Andy shows several different types of saw including back saws. However, for a mitre box you should file the teeth crosscut (not rip).

    There are also written documents on how to sharpen, but I will leave it to others to list those.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  10. #24
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    CK

    The saw looks good. That hole in the toe of the back is to put a device to prevent the saw being withdrawn too far and coming clear of the rear guide. Something as simple as a nail will suffice, but you might be able to engineer something a little flashier.

    Regards
    Paul
    Funny you said that. I was already thinking of something nicer.



    Looks a little like what others put through their nose [emoji38]

    However, I can understand that they didn't make something commercially. It will get easily lost, whereas a nail is probably always around. And it is not essential.

    Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

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