Glad you did it this time.. they look fantastic!
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Cheaper by the dozen, eh Ray?
A nicely turned-out set. I presume these are intended for use with a mallet - how does Jarrah stand up to a bit of walloping?
Cheers,
That's a sweet looking set.
I would like to convert all my tang chisels to socket chisels as they look so much nicer.
It was the 8" one the T3, I am looking at getting the same. The 10" one would be nicer, but the price really jumps. The intention is just to use it for HC plane blades and chisels from what I have been able to read the stone is a bit too soft for HSS turning chisels, I use a disk sander for those anyway.
EDIT: Umm.. yes there is a different stone you can put on for HSS and TC.. the "black stone"
Thanks Luban, the oval shape feels nice in the hand, but a real pain to make.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow6
Don't know how they will stand up, but I intend to wallop if needed, I can make more if they split anyway (:doh:)Quote:
Originally Posted by IanW
Ok, confession time, I actually thought they were sockets when I bid on ebay, but they are actually tanged with a tapered bolster and a brass ferrule. And yes, one day I too would like to get a set of tapered socket chisels.. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Wongdai
Regards
Ray
Beautiful chisels.
Pray tell what does registered mean??
ahhh...
But I thought that's what firmer meant? I'm not taking the p*ss, I just don't know all the terminology;) Cheers mate
Well Ray - at least we have one point of difference. My experiences with a Tormek left me quite unimpressed. It was partly due to the stone not being well-squared - it was just a bit off & I was able to compensate because the flimsy guide rod flexes easily enough. Didn't want to get stuck into it with the diamond dresser too much 'cos it wasn't mine, & wasn't sure if the owner really WANTED it that way (I found out he didn't, but too late). I was very thankful to be able to use it at the time, because most of my own gear was in storage, and the grinder was right at the bottom of the furthest corner....
Anyway, it was alright, it did the job but SLOW, man! I like my 8" white wheel, thanks - gets the job done quicksmart, doesn't cook anything if you keep it dressed & use a modicum of patience & common-sense (I don't, always :~) and is a bit more versatile in accepting whatever I throw at it. I can quickly dress & shape the wheel with abandon, knowing it's a lot cheaper to replace than the Tormek. OK, it doesn't leave the clean edge of the Tormek off wheel, but a few seconds each on my succession of stones & I have an edge at least as good as any you'll produce with the buffing routine. And all in a fraction of the time it took me to get there on the Tormek. Granted, the tools I was regrinding were in a bit rogher shape than I would normally have allowed them to get to, but it would have made little difference on the white wheel.
Different strokes for different folks - that's what keeps life interesting.
I was asking about the durability of Jarrah as handles because I have a heap of offcuts from a couple of jobs, and there are lots of potential handles there. I am also going to try it out for screws for wooden clamps, someday soon. The best handle materials I've used in the last few years has been Gidgee & Mulga - they look so good & take being belted in their stride (so far!).
BTW - I do ovals fairly regularly for things like hammer handles & don't find them too challenging as a one-off. However, I have not tried to make a dozen matched handles for a set, like you did - which is possibly what you were referring to when you implied it was a pain? Sometimes turning on two centres works well to start ovals off, but for most jobs, like a hammer handle, for e.g., I turn the main profile, then flatten two sides with a combination of rasp & spokeshave (or even drawerknife on a big job) and then blend with paper - pretty quick, but making lots all the same might not be so simple.
Anyway - it's always worth the effort when you can look at a job & say 'that looks pretty spiffy' (& it helps when you know you shouldn't have to do any of them again in a normal lifetime! :U )
Cheers,
"Firmer Chisel", is one of those terms that has become very confused, beyond being a chisel that you can hit with a mallet... I don't know
Actually I agree pretty much with your experiences, I had to true the stone (with the tormek truing tool) then re-grade it to the coarser grit, you can re-grade to either 220 or 1000 grit, it was much quicker when we graded it to 220.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanW
I had the backs already flattened and polished using scary-sharp and buffing wheel, so all I had to do on the tormek was regrind the primary bevels, some were pretty ordinary and took a bit longer, but all in all I was quite impressed. (Except for the price :oo:)
One other point, the jig I used was the later model, that references off the back of the chisel to get square.
Regarding Jarrah as handle material, the only concern would be splitting, a timber with more cross-linked grain would be better, but I'm not going to belt them with a steel hammer, so I hope they last? :D
Regards
Ray
Hi Folks.
I didn't pick this up on the weekend.. but I have been meaning to share it you for a while.
It was bought for me by a fellow forum member that I swap tools/stories with from time to time:)
It came from an antique store and I think it cost him $15.. It's just the sort of thing that I like. It gets a mention here as an Australian Made plane blade sharpener, no idea it's age. I haven't really done any research on it yet.
It's a keeper though.... to the pool room eh Tom :yes:
It is about 25cms long and the body is 22mm wide and made from 15ply.. I think I'm seeing more than three different timbers in the ply.. perhaps the ply was being laminated up from scrap. The steel components are all just basic bits of sheet steel screws and washers, it looks to have been filed and flattened by hand.
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It works very well (no I'm not going to use it) the only thing I'd change would be the washer under the screw.. if it were just a bees smaller you wouldn't have to remove it completely to fit a blade and it would hold just as well.
If I had more lazy rainy days in my life I'd make a copy just for fun.. maybe one day.
Yep - straight to the pool room.
The Hunters and collectors society would likely be interested in your find - I'm guessing that it is extremely rare.
Peter would probably know.
The puzzling thing is whether the rear steel plated foot runs on the stone or off it. I'm guessing off and to the rear - running on the bench.
Nice find
SG
Hmmmm.. we'll have to wait for Peter to wander past:)
That's my assumption also.. If the steel foot is flat on the bench the blade is about stone height.. to get it down to bench level it's protuding an awful long way from the front of the jig.
I actually scored a little win on Sunday at a local market, a Dawn 8" vice for $20. Nothing wrong with it apart from some surface rust on the bare steel, which took 15 minutes to clean up. Oh and some bits and pieces, because they were there :U
I be buggered, I hit the wrong button, here's the photo's :doh:
That old Dawn is a lovely pickup.