Thread: Moulding planes and their use?

Picked up a almost half set on the weekend (needing 14 and 16 hollows)

Looking for sharpening resources and found this

Also found this excerpt from Bickfords book from LAP
http://lostartpress.files.wordpress....7/overture.pdf

I wasn't sure this loooong discussion was going my way, i was about to start a new one about sharpening. But someone dropped the "reds" and the "greens".

I have the chance to live in France where moulders are usually affordable (and ebay.uk is also my friend). But i figured that grinding sticks will end up just as expensive than the planes, if i ever could find to each his own (times 3 : coarse medium fine !). Did i mention the ones with cusps i own?
Furthermore it's a real slow process when their blades are dulled from decades of laziness above the router shelf.

Wouldn't a buffing wheel be less challenging? Please don't throw any tomatoes, i didn't know existence 2 weeks back. I've seen them used on gouges, i figured they would do on complex moulders. Am I totally off?

I recently bought a hand driven grinder for that purpose but haven't found those wheels yet.
I live 45 minutes away from the "last Pyrenées sharpening stones producer" in Saurat. I'd be just as glad to buy him a set of rounded stones for gouges but that won't do on the narrow curves of some my moulders.
Pierres pour Gouges-Réf. GOUGE1003008
I' am japanese waterstone kinda guy but as a new neighbour i have no excuse not to pay a visit.

I read that some would use files but that seemed blasphematory.

Leonard Lee promotes grinding sticks in his book, but mentions that grinding flat the back of the blade will do as long as you don't plan to use it much. A solution that might make scream in horror Gabriel, Mathieson and Sheffield's makers.

Well if you have thoughts to share with an antipodist...