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  1. #1
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    May 2008
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    Default Moving Fillister Plane build.

    In the early stages of building a traditional Moving Fillister Plane. The depth stop assembly, single iron, and ancillaries were purchased from the U.K close to 5yrs ago, so its been a project that's been well overdue in getting started. Some existing slop within the mechanical movement of the depth stop had to be addressed before it was later installed. The build itself will take some time to complete as this is my 1st time attempt at this type of wooden plane design. Each stage needs to be followed up by a detailed account of the measurements taken for future reference.

    A rebate needed to be formed to allow the later gluing in of a partial sole of higher janka timber. The main stock species is Tasmanian Tiger Myrtle.



    Depth stop adjuster after being installed. A dovetailed key-way was formed to house the adjuster side wall plate.



    The thread plates to secure the moving fence were keyed in before being epoxied into position.



    The partial sole of higher janka Aust. Jarrah was glued in before being dressed back to final dimension.




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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Stockton
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    Default

    Stewie

    This looks awesome and it is good timing! I was just thinking about these yesterday and was looking on Derek's website seeing how he made a bridle plough plane to get ideas.

    Is the hardware you bought from the uk new or recycled? Which supplier did you get it from? Would you use tallowwood for a partial sole? Or is jarrah your preferred ? Or do use species with similar colours to the main stock and have no preference?

    I must say I enjoy watching the progress of your projects! Keep up the good work and please keep posting!

    Cheers
    Stewart
    Last edited by Big Shed; 7th July 2017 at 11:22 AM. Reason: Unnecessary quote removed

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Bendigo Victoria
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    Default

    planemaker, as a Photobucket user you may want to read this

    Photobucket users held to ransom

  5. #4
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    May 2008
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    Australia
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    Default

    Appreciate the post Fred.

    regards Stewie;

  6. #5
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    Default

    Stewart; the parts received from the uk were 2nd hand. The area of partial sole that was reinforced by the higher janka will be in ongoing contact with the timber being worked. Jarrah was chosen based on a similar color match and greater wear resistance to that being supplied by Tasmanian myrtle. What species of timber you end up using within your own build is a decision you need to make on your own.

    regards Stewie;

  7. #6
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    May 2008
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    Australia
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    Default

    Re-threaded the securing bolts for the moving fence to SAE 1/4 NC20.


  8. #7
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    May 2008
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    Australia
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    Default

    The moving fence has been installed. The 2 brass slides and slitter are next.

    Stewie;




  9. #8
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    May 2008
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    Australia
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    The brass slides are now epoxied into position. The inboard side of the moving fence was also trimmed back to obtain the targeted 3/4 inch set. The focus now is on shaping the slitting iron and seating it flush to the inboard side of the fillister plane.


  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    54
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    For me one of the most enjoyable parts of this thread is working out the next step by the clues you are leaving; usually on top of the plane body!

    Although I've seen pictures of wooden bodied moving fillisters I've never handled one or really ever looked at them that closely. This thread is now introducing me to them in a way that really appeals; by showing how a typical plane is manufactured it gives me a greater understanding of how it can work and defines the limitations that it must work within. Now when I see them I will be inclined to look much closer in order to build a more informed opinion of them, beyond merely knowing they exist.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  11. #10
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    May 2008
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    Australia
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    Appreciate the feedback Chief Tiff.

    Stewie;

  12. #11
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    After shaping the slitting iron, the cutting end was heated to a cherry red before quenching in oil. The cutting tip was then hollow ground and honed to a sharp edge.

    Front view; the longitudinal sides not only taper in width, but also include a beveled edge.


    Back view of the hollow grind;

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
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    9,417

    Default

    very interesting build - thanks for sharing
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    Thanks for sharing this. Whilst I can never see myself making a plane of any description, I do find your builds very interesting.

    Cheers
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

  15. #14
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    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Stewie

    Watching with interest as always.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  16. #15
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    May 2008
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    Australia
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    This morning I recessed the slitting iron into the inboard side of the fillister plane. You only get the 1 chance to get it right so its essential the correct strategy is chosen before you make a start.



    Testing the slitting iron out on a short length of Aussie Hardwood. 1/2" set on the moving fence.




    Excellent result. The next step is to make the wooden wedge with its 20 degree longitudinal bevels. Its likely this remaining build is going to be delayed for a week or so. The daughter wants some renovation work done on her house.


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